Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[66Overlander]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Refrigerator progress
We received the Isotherm icebox conversion kit with the extra unit to convert it to AC/DC. The kit comes with an oval evaporator (the freezer) that connects to an external compressor/controller and a thermostat. To the inside of the fridge, I added some rails for the evaporator to sit on and drilled a hole through the side of the fridge for the refrigerant and thermostat lines to exit. When I removed the original LP stuff from the fridge, it left a gaping hole in the back that had to be insulated and capped off. I am now building a mock-up in the trailer to simulate where it will sit and the ventilation it will have. Then we'll temporarily install the fridge to test functionality/placement. Once the fridge configuration is established, we'll turn to placement/functionality/ducting of the air conditioner in that same area.Attachment 322648 Attachment 322649 Attachment 322650

Thanks to all who have helped. Now hoping our fridge and air conditioner experiments pan out.
Bubba

Hi Bubba, Many questions since I am considering a similar fridge conversion for the Dometic M50b Fridge in my 1962 Airstream.

1. Did you replace any original insulation other than inside the door, or just fill the hole on the back where the original propane evaporator went?

2. How did you decide this Isotherm unit had the right BTU cooling capacity for your application?

3. How did you decide to go with the Isotherm 2501 over similar sized "freezer compartment" evaporator conversion kits from Dometic Adler/Barbour, Frigoboat, Nova Kool, Sea Frost, and possibly others? All seem to use either the BD35 or BD50 Danfoss compressors. Some offer optional remote thermostats and the ability to adjust compressor rpm to match cooling needs of the moment.

4. What rpm did you run the compressor at during your testing? It seems the range is from 2000 rpm (less cooling, but less electricity usage) to 3500 rpm (more cooling, more electricity).

Thanks in advance.

[Bubba L]

Joe,

1. Did you replace any original insulation other than inside the door, or just fill the hole on the back where the original propane evaporator went?
We did not replace the original insulation other than in the door and hole.

2. How did you decide this Isotherm unit had the right BTU cooling capacity for your application?
The cubic footage of our fridge mildly exceeded the capabilities of the medium sized unit (BD35). Given our hot climate, we opted for function over efficiency. We wanted to make sure it could freeze water, not just keep frozen things cold. Isotherm tech support also recommended the larger unit.

3. How did you decide to go with the Isotherm 2501 over similar sized "freezer compartment" evaporator conversion kits from Dometic Adler/Barbour, Frigoboat, Nova Kool, Sea Frost, and possibly others? All seem to use either the BD35 or BD50 Danfoss compressors. Some offer optional remote thermostats and the ability to adjust compressor rpm to match cooling needs of the moment.
I based my decision on quality and cost over efficiency by reading marine forum reviews/discussions. I wanted an ac/dc unit that was quiet and worked well in a hot climate. We primarily camp at state parks; perhaps if we boondocked more, the power efficiency would have been more of a concern.

4. What rpm did you run the compressor at during your testing? It seems the range is from 2000 rpm (less cooling, but less electricity usage) to 3500 rpm (more cooling, more electricity).
We first tested using AC with the thermostat set mid way (not sure what rpm that represents). In 2 hours, the fridge went from 76.1 to 41.9 and the freezer to 29 degrees. We then cranked up the thermostat to max when testing using DC and in 2 hrs the fridge went from 67 to 27 while the freezer went to 10.6. Outdoor temps were only in the mid-high 70's.

Hope this helps,
Bubba

[66Overlander]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Joe,

1. Did you replace any original insulation other than inside the door, or just fill the hole on the back where the original propane evaporator went?
We did not replace the original insulation other than in the door and hole.

2. How did you decide this Isotherm unit had the right BTU cooling capacity for your application?
The cubic footage of our fridge mildly exceeded the capabilities of the medium sized unit (BD35). Given our hot climate, we opted for function over efficiency. We wanted to make sure it could freeze water, not just keep frozen things cold. Isotherm tech support also recommended the larger unit.

3. How did you decide to go with the Isotherm 2501 over similar sized "freezer compartment" evaporator conversion kits from Dometic Adler/Barbour, Frigoboat, Nova Kool, Sea Frost, and possibly others? All seem to use either the BD35 or BD50 Danfoss compressors. Some offer optional remote thermostats and the ability to adjust compressor rpm to match cooling needs of the moment.
I based my decision on quality and cost over efficiency by reading marine forum reviews/discussions. I wanted an ac/dc unit that was quiet and worked well in a hot climate. We primarily camp at state parks; perhaps if we boondocked more, the power efficiency would have been more of a concern.

4. What rpm did you run the compressor at during your testing? It seems the range is from 2000 rpm (less cooling, but less electricity usage) to 3500 rpm (more cooling, more electricity).
We first tested using AC with the thermostat set mid way (not sure what rpm that represents). In 2 hours, the fridge went from 76.1 to 41.9 and the freezer to 29 degrees. We then cranked up the thermostat to max when testing using DC and in 2 hrs the fridge went from 67 to 27 while the freezer went to 10.6. Outdoor temps were only in the mid-high 70's.

Hope this helps,
Bubba

Thanks Bubba. That helps, but those were just the starting questions. It would be great to talk via phone. Much easier than going back and forth on this forum or via email. I'll send you a PM with my phone number. Thanks in advance.

[Bubba L]

The trailer was originally the dark seafoam green color of the day with white speckled black floors. That was a bit somber for my wife, so she wanted to go lighter and boy did she get light and bright! We purchased 3 gals of Zolatone and the first coat used about 1/2 that. The coverage was a little thin after the first coat, so we opted for a second.

We got Marmoleum sheet flooring online from GreenGoods.com. Farbo, the company who makes Marmoleum, doesn't package the flooring well for shipping and it came damaged. Same thing happened on the Marmoleum on our '66 AS. They are good about replacing the damaged flooring, but it just takes time.

Marmoleum really needs a smooth floor since any imperfections will telegraph through. I was tempted not to use an underlayment, but chickened out and stapled down a 1/4" birch plywood underlayment per Farbo specs. I used 5 sheets of plywood. I created a paper pattern to cut the underlayment, then fitted the pieces in the trailer and made alignment marks because I then took the underlayment out and used it as a pattern to cut the Marmoleum. Marmoleum comes in 79" widths and our trailer's inside width is 87" so we have a seam going down the streetside hidden under cabinetry. We ordered 16 sq yards to have enough to cut the 8" seam pieces on the streetside. Cutting Marmoleum slowly using a hook blade works well. Be careful not to crease the Marmoleum when rolling it or it can crack the face. Right now our flooring is in the trailer acclimating for 7 days before we glue it down.

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

To convert the front dining area to a bed, I had considered using a telescoping pedestal to drop the table down to the bed level, but I was concerned about complaints about the sturdiness of the pedestals. My plan now is to build a typical gaucho style bed in the front by adding short slides to the front edge of the seats. When extended 3" they will support the dining table in the bed position. The table will attach under the front window using a VTS wall mount and there will be a folding leg to support the table in the dining position. To convert to the bed, the leg is retracted and the table removed from the wall mount and lowered to rest on the wooden slides at bed level.
Walter of Wabash slides were used extensively in our 1966 Safari to extend the gaucho seats into beds. The slide is a very sturdy wooden mechanism that is actually very easy to make out of 3 pieces of wood. You basically have two pieces of wood attached by and sliding over a center dowel. This is how I make them or you can buy them from VTS.

Cut two 1.5" x .75" pieces of hardwood to the desired length then a dovetail slot has to be made down the center of each piece. A dovetail router bit on a router table would be optimal, but since I don't have one I used a table saw to make the dovetail slots. To make the slots on a table saw, I positioned the blade as far as it would slant. I adjusted the fence and debt of the blade and ran the piece of wood through to create one side of the dovetail slot. Then flipped the piece around to cut the other side of the dovetail. Lastly, I re-positioned the blade to a straight cut, adjusted the debt and fence and cleaned out the center of the slot. I also used a wood chisel to smooth out the slot. The same method is used to create the center hourglass shaped dowel. The length of the center dowel is determined by how much you want the slide to extend. The shorter the dowel, the longer the extension. To assemble, slide the dovetailed pieces over the dowel and make sure they slide smoothly; you may have to use dry silicone or beeswax to get a really smooth slide. You have to add a stop at each dovetail end so that the dovetailed pieces don't slide off the dowel. For a temporary stop, I use screws as shown; however, for final assembly I will make the stop out of a piece of the dowel because the screw doesn't provide any support.

Amazing work, Bubba. Thanks for sharing that.

[Jeremy9107]

Bubba. Like the idea of the dovetail slides. Wondering if that technique would work for drawers so as to eliminate metal slides. Think I will give it a try.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Jeremy9107

Bubba. Like the idea of the dovetail slides. Wondering if that technique would work for drawers so as to eliminate metal slides. Think I will give it a try.

I think the wooden slides would work for drawers. If mounted on the side of the drawer, they could be mounted like a metal slide. One half of the slide would mount flush with the stile and the other to the drawer side. You could make the pieces 5/8” which would be about what the metal slides are. They can be adjusted by the length of the dowel for a full extension drawer. I like that idea, a prelude to the metal slides. Please let me know how it turns out. Thanks, Bubba

[Bubba L]

For our 1966 Safari, I followed Forums suggestions/instructions and made a "thingy" (or suicide door wood security block) to keep the door shut during travel.


I like it so much that I wanted to use it on the '55; however, the '55 grab bar is not the same and it didn't fit. So I fabricated this easy one for use on the '55.

[Bubba L]

Originally, our trailer had a front cabinet with peg board sliding doors all across the front to house a small fresh water tank as shown in this VintageAirstream archive photo:


None of that survived in our trailer and we gutted a front bed that had been added by the PO.

We decided to put a 30 gal IncaPlastics fresh water tank up front and under the curbside gaucho as shown. For this reason, we departed from the original reducing the size of the pegboard doors and adding some extra shelving. The upper and bottom slides for the pegboard doors came from woodworkerexpress.com. The tank is to one side and the pump, filter and accumulator are in the streetside corner.


I strapped the tank down and added support into the seating area of the gaucho above it by adding 1/8" aluminum angle channel spanning the top and supported on each end by framing members. The streetside gaucho gets added support by the divider between the storage spaces. I will hinge the gaucho covers for access from above and will have access doors for bin storage from beneath.


For the frame, I am using 1x6x3/4" cypress I had lying around; it's strong, lightweight and moisture resistant. For the face framing, I am using Baltic/Russian Birch and finishing with shellac. I build the frame in place using pocket screws, then the face frames are constructed and finished in the workshop before assembling in the trailer. The finish is 1 coat conditioner and 2 coats amber shellac. This is probably overkill, but I also added a coat of sanding sealer with 2 more coats of clear shellac for a glossier finish. Shellac dries pretty fast.

There are 2 wooden slides on the face of each gaucho. When converting the gaucho to bed mode, the slides will be extended and the table will sit on top.


Note the ac and dc/usb receptacles on either side of the window (will be hidden by curtains) . Because the dc/usb fixture was so deep, we used surface mounted single gang box extenders by Arlington Industries to get more space inside the electric box.


Happy Holidays to all!

[islandtrader]

Good Job Bubba...
"For the frame, I am using 1x6x3/4" cypress I had lying around; it's strong, lightweight and moisture resistant."

You are right on with the cypress...I used it when I did a complete re-build on my 64 Seacraft...except I have 10 coats of varnish on it...

[Bubba L]

Merry Christmas everybody!

Santa brought Maybellene, the trailer, an electric tongue jack and 50's diner stuff to go with the counter box I got last year!!


Have a safe and joyous new year!

[steinVT]

Wow, very cool. Love the retro diner look. Is the jukebox an original piece? Will it actually work? Can't wait to see her when she is finished.

Happy New Year to you.
Mark

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by steinVT

Wow, very cool. Love the retro diner look. Is the jukebox an original piece? Will it actually work? Can't wait to see her when she is finished.

Happy New Year to you.
Mark

Mark, that is an original 1955 Seeburg wall box that Stephanie bought off of EBay last year. It actually takes money and makes selections. We purchased a wall box player system. It uses a compact flash memory card music player that emulates a juke box. It decodes the wall box signal and plays the wall box selection. We have it loaded with 1950s music. Thanks and have a safe and productive New Year.

[Bubba L]

My wife was not happy with the sheen of the paint we used on the fridge (rattle can appliance paint). We worked with the mfgr, but no matter how many coats, the finish was too flat. We didn't want high gloss, just a little more sheen.
A painter friend recommended we use a Preval Sprayer and spray the fridge with oil base satin enamel. The Preval Sprayer was great and an inexpensive way to turn canned paint into spray paint. You can get it at box stores and each replacement aerosol canister can spray up to 55 sq ft.

[Aerowood]

Ahhh, you discovered Prevals, been using them for decades. Be sure to clean after each use, as they will clog up internally pretty easily.

[Bubba L]

Refinishing the sink has given us headaches! The original was chipped and scratched, so we sanded it down and filled the chips with Fill-A-Fix. That worked fine.
Since Por15 was such a hard finish on the frame, we decided to try the Por15 2K Urethane on the sink. The application has been really difficult. We brushed it the first time and it looked smooth and shiny but it had numerous runs. We were told we put it on too heavy and should not have thinned it so we sanded it down and tried again. It still ran, just not as much. We were going to try to roll it on next, but after the discovery of the Preval Sprayer, we decided to try that.
Aesthetically, the sink looks great, but the sprayer left a light textured finish. We actually like the textured finish, but are not sure it will function well. I think if we spray closer we will get a smoother finish, but that will put us in danger of creating runs. Since we are running out of time, patience and paint, we will see how the existing finish wears. The price to have it professionally re-porcelained is approx $400 + shipping.


Anybody have better success refinishing a sink?

[mimiandrews]

I've had much better results with a touch-up spray gun than I'm able to get with any kind of spray can. I assume it may be the same with the Preval. The "real" paint gun is much more adjustable.

The good results did not happen until I gave up on $10 knock-off copies and bought a genuine Binks touch-up gun.

I lend it only to good friends. Send me an e-mail if you want to borrow it.

[DFlores]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkrToVGXLPY

I know it is about cars, but basic air/material mixture and temperature guides apply to all spray painting

[ALUMINUMINUM]

I wonder if color-sanding up to 3M Trizak 3000 would smooth it enough to buff out with a couple finer pads until it pleases the boss??



Is there possibly a stainless sink of acceptable vintage and size?

[Bubba L]

Thanks for the suggestions. I may be trying for perfection and it’s not happening. The finish is actually even, just not as smooth as glass. 10% smoother would be acceptable. Maybe with the material Aluminuminum suggested. I just need to get off high center and move on. Thanks