Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[Bubba L]

Our main door was pretty corroded on the outside and the inside had lots of additional screw holes from the previous owner. After some guidance from AirForum members, I decided to re-skin both sides of the door. It was easy to replicate the pieces using the existing as a pattern and I used a bead roller to replicate the edging. For the door-within-a-door, I re-fabricated the inside only and replaced the insulation. For the main door, I cut the inside door panels and cleco'd them back, then I removed the exterior panels, made new panels and cleco'd them. Then I removed the interior panels, laid the door down with the inside facing up and bucked the exterior panels using sealant on the overlaps. I then insulated using 2 layers of Prodex separated by pink foam spacers. I had to install the screen using the more rigid screen found at VTS. At this point, we fitted the door and bucked the hinges to the trailer.


Without the inner panels, the door is extremely flexible. Note in photo #2 below how the bottom of the door does not lie flat against the trailer. I still have to understand the best way to maintain the curve and achieve a tight fit of the door while pop riveting the interior panels into place. I actually did have the interior panels cleco'd into place at one time, but had to remove them in order to get the door closed for the hinge riveting. Do I have someone hold the door closed from the outside while I pop rivet the areas I can get to and then open the door to rivet the remaining perimeter/edge rivets? Is that sufficient to keep the proper curve of the door or is there a better process?


In other news, I did hit a milestone. I was finally able to move the trailer from within the barn so I can get to my tools. I still have some work to waterproof the trailer, but at least it is outside and undercover.


Any advice on a good process to finish the door?
Thanks,
Bubba

[goransons]

Why not scribe a 1x4 to the outside wall of the trailer then clamp it to the overlap of the door?

[Trons4u]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Our main door was pretty corroded on the outside and the inside had lots of additional screw holes from the previous owner. After some guidance from AirForum members, I decided to re-skin both sides of the door. It was easy to replicate the pieces using the existing as a pattern and I used a bead roller to replicate the edging. For the door-within-a-door, I re-fabricated the inside only and replaced the insulation. For the main door, I cut the inside door panels and cleco'd them back, then I removed the exterior panels, made new panels and cleco'd them. Then I removed the interior panels, laid the door down with the inside facing up and bucked the exterior panels using sealant on the overlaps. I then insulated using 2 layers of Prodex separated by pink foam spacers. I had to install the screen using the more rigid screen found at VTS. At this point, we fitted the door and bucked the hinges to the trailer.
Attachment 305541Attachment 305542 Attachment 305543

Without the inner panels, the door is extremely flexible. Note in photo #2 below how the bottom of the door does not lie flat against the trailer. I still have to understand the best way to maintain the curve and achieve a tight fit of the door while pop riveting the interior panels into place. I actually did have the interior panels cleco'd into place at one time, but had to remove them in order to get the door closed for the hinge riveting. Do I have someone hold the door closed from the outside while I pop rivet the areas I can get to and then open the door to rivet the remaining perimeter/edge rivets? Is that sufficient to keep the proper curve of the door or is there a better process?
Attachment 305544 Attachment 305545 Attachment 305546

In other news, I did hit a milestone. I was finally able to move the trailer from within the barn so I can get to my tools. I still have some work to waterproof the trailer, but at least it is outside and undercover.
Attachment 305547 Attachment 305548

Any advice on a good process to finish the door?
Thanks,
Bubba

Maybe a Plywood cradle would help. Could probably scribe the wood using the door frame

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Airstream Forums mobile app

[Bubba L]

Thanks Tony and Megan ( I’ll bet Megan thought of that and told Scott). That is a great idea. Actually, I have 2/6 boards already scribed and cut that I used to cradle the door while laying on sawhorses. I will double check the curvature and tweak if necessary. Brilliant minds think alike. Evidently, I’m not thinking. Thanks again. Bubba

[Bubba L]

I agree with Boxite, my original tail light attempt was more work than needed and notching the edge of the diode board proved problematic in maintaining the necessary continuity. Take #2 took about 40 minutes per light and involved no drilling of the diode board:

Step 1) I removed the red lens of the prefab light by cutting shallow with a hacksaw.



Step 2) To free the diode board from the housing, I used a Dremel to cut around the back plug housing and removed the 3 screws holding the diode board to the housing.


Step 3) In this step, I fabricated clips to hold the diode board in place as follows:
I replaced the screws used to attach the VTS lens to the bezel with longer 3/4" 6-32 screws.
Out of 3003H14 .032 aluminum, I cut four 3/8" strips, drilled a hole in them, bent them 90 degrees and sandwiched them between nuts onto the back of the new bezel screws as show. I then put a dab of Parbond on top of each nut, centered the diode board on top and bent the clips over to keep them in place.
As before, the bezel attaches to the skin via rivnuts.


I got the marker lights (LED from VTS) installed with rivnuts as well.

[Bubba L]

With suggestions from Aerowood, Trons4u and others, the door went back together well with a tight fit.
Thanks to all!


With the completion of the door, I moved inside and seam sealed all the rivets and seams with liquid Flex Seal and ran a water test to expose any leaks. I also painted the face of the ribs and stringers with Flex Seal hoping it will mitigate heat transfer to the interior skin. With that finished, I am starting to insulate with Prodex.

[cbirdwell]

Hi there, How would I get an original window sticker. I am trying to get a loan for a 1995 excella classic. They tell me it’s worth $4500. And this is a customized and at least worth $50000, I am at a dead end. Thanks corey

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by cbirdwell

Hi there, How would I get an original window sticker. I am trying to get a loan for a 1995 excella classic. They tell me it’s worth $4500. And this is a customized and at least worth $50000, I am at a dead end. Thanks corey

If you are looking for the original sticker price, you can go to Airstream's Document Archive https://www.airstream.com/service/document-archive/

I don't think the original sticker price will help you much; the bank probably wants its current value. You can either go to someplace like NADA Guides for the current value or have it appraised by someone like Polk & Associates if you think it is worth more.

You might get more and better information if you post your question in a new thread instead of here in this thread.

[Bubba L]

Thanks to several of the forum members, I was able to get the door rebuilt, installed and finished. The inside will be Zolatoned when we get to the painting, except for the door-within-a-door so that it matches the trailer when open. The original screen was bronze, so we went back with that.

The lock was pretty time consuming; here is a post about that saga:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f164...se-180055.html To summarize, the complexity of the H20 lock lies in the cylinder and the VTS cylinder locks/unlocks from the outside, but does not allow operation from the inside.

The main thing that bit me putting the door back together was not paying attention to the location of the frame members nearest the screen. Regarding the interior door pieces that are riveted, remember that the edges are pop riveted 1.5" inside the door-within-a-door screen to hit the door framing; otherwise, the rivet tails will show when the door-within-a-door is open.

[Bubba L]

We decided to use Prodex for insulation. We glued the first layer of Prodex against the inside of the exterior wall using 3M 77 spay adhesive. We then ran & taped all the wiring to this layer of Prodex.

I got 1/2" Foamular Rigid Insulation boards and cut 1.5" strips as spacers to be used between the two layers of Prodex. To stick the strips we were originally going to use double stick carpet tape, but my wife accidentally ordered too much double sided thermal break tape and it works great. Why thermal break tape when we already coated the ribs with FlexSeal? We felt the thermal break tape was designed for that purpose and the FlexSeal was not.
I then cut another layer of Prodex and used 3M 77 to attach to the strips creating a dead air space. Lastly, I capped the Prodex with a sheet of 1/2" Foamular. I know this system works very well because DFlores used this in his 1968 Safari and we've seen how well it performs in all weather. And it deadens sounds to boot.

Note: The lines on the Foamular is just to flag where the wiring is underneath. Also note in this photo the composting toilet. We ordered an Air Head for its smaller size and were making sure it fit.

We have been researching air conditioners forever and thanks to MattB, we finally settled on the Dometic Blizzard Turbo split system. It has been ordered; more to come.

Bubba

[HiHoAgRV]

Nice work and I'm really looking forward to the AC info.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Nice work and I'm really looking forward to the AC info.

Thanks Vernon. We’ll drive up to Oklahoma City and pick it up in the next few weeks. I’ll do a mock-up and play around with whisper mats and Check temps/decibels. We’ll document all we do and post. Bubba

[Bubba L]

I did get the 14000 BTU split unit air conditioner with heat strip and am figuring layout of the components while I finish the insulation. Here are my thoughts on the AC so far. I have a vent next to the door for fresh air. The condenser will be placed adjacent to the vent drawing in fresh air and exhausting through the belly pan. The condenser connects to the air handler with electrical and refrigerant lines as shown. The air handler and control box will be placed under the bed. A plenum for return air will extend from the air handler to the front and side of the bed. Ducting will run from the air handler, up through a closet to 2 registers near the ceiling facing the bedroom and kitchen. As I proceed, I'll probably have to tweek things, but this is the basics.

Anybody see any issues with this plan?
Thanks,
Bubba

[Bubba L]

This is my final modification of a baggage door lock cylinder to operate an H20-2 door locking mechanism as I believe it was designed to operate. The VTS lockset cylinder sold for the H20-2 does not allow the door to be locked and unlocked from both outside and inside simultaneously. I believe it is because the key has to be at the 12 o'clock position for the inside handle to be operable. On the VTS lock cylinder, you insert the key, turn it to 3o'clock or 9o'clock to lock or unlock it and remove the key from that 3 or 9o'clock position (the key cannot be returned and removed from the 12o'clock position). Because you cannot return and remove the key from the 12o'clock position, the inside handle no longer functions to lock/unlock the door.

I found the cam locks sold by VTS for baggage doors can be modified to give the H20-2 its full function. The side benefit is that VTS sells 3 camlocks in a package keyed alike so you have one key for your door and baggage compartments. Here is what I did:



On the end of the lock housing, there is a raised area that works with the stop washer to limit the turn of the key to 90 degrees. The H20-2 needs either 180 or 360 degrees allowing the key to be removed in all positions. I filed down the raised area so that the stop washer could turn freely. I probably could have alternately modified the stop washer tabs to limit to 180 degrees.

The Cam and screw that holds it are removed and discarded (the VTS baggage door lock has a screw instead of a spur washer and cam mounting as in the above drawing). I fabricated a new shaft out of a 3/16x20 bolt; I cut the head off, cut it to fit flush with the back of the lockset, and filed the end square to fit the bushing. Then all I do is use permanent Locktite to screw the new shaft into the lock housing.

Now the inside handle can be used to lock and unlock the door as long as the outside key is returned to the 12o'clock position before it is removed.

[Bubba L]

In post #190 I detailed the steps I took to insulate my walls like David Flores did his trailer. I had a request to post better photos. Here is the sequence:
Space to Insulate

First layer of Prodex with 1/2" spacers and wiring run in this space

Second layer of Prodex

Last layer of Foamular

Pretty much done. Note where ribs are missing I had to use foil tape.


It was a slow process, but worth the effort if it insulates as well as David's trailer.

[Bubba L]

The original LaDeau Lifters on my vent were riveted to some brackets. My rivets were long gone. I found I was able to repair the lifters by replacing the rivets with 3-48 x 1/4 screws, #2 flat washers and 3-48 nuts:

[Bubba L]

We gutted the gas absorption parts from a Dometic M16 refrigerator leaving about a 5 cu ft space. We've ordered an icebox conversion system from Isotherm to create an AC/DC refrigerator/freezer (thanks for that idea 57Vintage). Until it gets here, we had to get the box ready.


The inside thermoplastic door panel was cracked in multiple places and the door insulation was old. We used a fiberglass repair kit to reinforce cracks from the back of the panel and create missing edge sections. After painting the panel with spray paint made for plastic applications, we flipped it and used spray foam to insulate the back. We found that if you foam the whole thing at once, it expands and deforms the thermoplastic (note the deformed area on the finished panel and the crack created). On reflection, we should have foamed in layers. After shaving the foam flush, there remained a convex void between the panel's foam and the door that needed insulation; we found a small quantity of Roxul from a box store fit perfectly.




I stripped the paint off the original door and sprayed with appliance paint. The finish is acceptable, but not as glossy as I'd like. The original handle had a plastic spring release latch that had broken, so I used the original as a pattern and fabricated a new one from a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate.


The "e" shaped compression gasket needed replacing. An antique appliance place sells the stuff for $6/ft, but we found the equivalent at barefrideration.com for a fraction of the cost. Their custom size cooler and freezer gasket style 2396 came custom cut and heat welded at the mitered corners. Our 22x34 gasket fit great and cost $35 plus shipping.

The original refrigerator had a vented cabinet underneath to house the propane parts; I cut off that section as it was now wasted space and did not contribute to the overall appearance of the unit. Here is progress to date.

[DFlores]

Bubba, you have been really busy on the trailer. Looks really good. Of course you go into great detail in your efforts.

[Bubba L]

Thanks David, we are starting to make some progress in a variety of areas now:

Skins
We painted the cavity side of the inside skin with Hy-Tech ThermaCells mixed into a primer paint to reflect heat away from the interior skin. I'm not sure it will help or not, but it was cheap and at the very least it will provide a thermal break between the ribs and inside skin.

We got the inside skins back without too much trouble. As much as possible, we used existing holes to line things up. For the unused holes, I found that applied and sanded automotive Bondo worked well to fill unneeded holes. A few damaged interior panels were replaced using the originals as templates.


At Aerowood's recommendations, I ordered his specified pop rivets from HansonRivet.com whose prices and service were exceptional; Grant was informative and bent over backwards to be helpful. This is also a great source to purchase a large variety of threaded inserts (nutserts/rivnuts). I find I am using them more and more for attachments to the skins because they're strong, made of aluminum and make the attachment easily removable. Here I used them to attach the shore power inlet, coax inlet and water inlet.


Electrical
Even though we still have to prime/paint, we connected the ac and dc wire runs to the Progressive Dynamics 4045 power control center to make sure we didn't damage any lines putting the skins in. We will also use it to power the fridge and air conditioner tests we intend to conduct. We can simulate dc power without a battery by powering the converter and connecting the chassis ground to the control center. We intend to prime with Kilz Adhesion as soon as we have the Zolatone paint ordered; we are currently waiting for a Zolatone sample from the architectural Zolatone people.

Chimney Stack Vent
When we got the trailer, it had a chimney stack that was not original but rebuilt using box store materials. I wanted it to look more authentic, so spent a great deal of time trying to figure out how to rebuild an original using cake pans, etc... In the meantime I had contacted several vintage trailer operations and to my surprise, Dan Piper of Vintage Campers in Indiana had an original! Great people to work with; we got the stack within a week and it polished to a mirror shine.


Refrigerator progress
We received the Isotherm icebox conversion kit with the extra unit to convert it to AC/DC. The kit comes with an oval evaporator (the freezer) that connects to an external compressor/controller and a thermostat. To the inside of the fridge, I added some rails for the evaporator to sit on and drilled a hole through the side of the fridge for the refrigerant and thermostat lines to exit. When I removed the original LP stuff from the fridge, it left a gaping hole in the back that had to be insulated and capped off. I am now building a mock-up in the trailer to simulate where it will sit and the ventilation it will have. Then we'll temporarily install the fridge to test functionality/placement. Once the fridge configuration is established, we'll turn to placement/functionality/ducting of the air conditioner in that same area.

Thanks to all who have helped. Now hoping our fridge and air conditioner experiments pan out.
Bubba

[Jeremy9107]

Dig the progress. We used the same water and power inlets as you. Same locations too. Your work though is much better.