Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[Bubba L]

It's been awhile since I've posted. Got through the holidays and now back to work; weather allowing. Still working to get it dried in so I can move it outside to pressure test.

The original rock guard had green corrugated fiberglass that I replaced with clear Makrolon. I like the idea of seeing through the trailer while driving and seeing the jalousie window through the rock guard. The original top piano hinge was in 3 - 6inch sections riveted to the drip cap. I replaced the piano hinges with 1 - 36inch hinge (cut down from a 48" VTS hinge) and riveted it to the skin above the window frame instead of to the drip cap.

The original hardware was still operable so I cleaned and reused it. I drilled through the window frame flange and tapped and installed 8/32 stainless steel screws. The other end is attached to the rock guard using aluminum sex bolts.


I've ordered a new, longer 48" drip cap to accommodate the rock guard when opened.

[Bubba L]

The curbside access door was in pretty bad shape, so I decided to try to fabricate a new one. I tried bending 2024T3, but the hemmed edges broke, so I got some 3003 H14.032 which took a hemmed edge without issue.

The hardest part for me was figuring out how the corners were done, so I made some cardboard patterns I could use to trace the cutouts on the aluminum. One was for the top compound corners and the other for the less complicated bottom corners. The cutouts seem odd, but they make sense once you see how it's folded.




I made a makeshift brake that is adequate for simple bends. The corners have to be cut before the 90 degree bends can be made.


Here you can see how the cardboard pattern was folded to create the flap that rivets to the adjacent edge. Here are two shots of the more complex corner:

And here's a shot of the single corner with its cardboard pattern:

[Bubba L]

The purpose of the turned up flange on the front panel is to receive a back cover of the door. This back cover has simple 90-degree flanges created by kerfing the corners. The back flanges fit over the backside of the front panel and are pop riveted together to create a 7/8" cavity for insulation.

[Bubba L]

To polish the door, I mounted the door on a 2x6, then placed the 2x6 in a big bench vise. I can turn the door upside down or right side up as needed.



I'm using black Caswell bars to cut through the corrosion. Unfortunately, the bottom of the door has some pretty deep, dented scratches, so I may consider replacing that section. On the back of the door, I'll have to strip the black paint and some panels will have to be replaced due to a massive number of large screw holes. I have also ordered new screen material.

I'm cleaning up the door handle and have replaced the H-20 spring.


More work to do here......................

[HiHoAgRV]

I made a hatch door and some new window frames from 3003. Since they are separate components, when polished you can't tell the difference between them and alclad. Nice work!

[islandtrader]

If you use your homemade break and a long 2x4 you can put the slight bend into the luggage door panel edge if you want to make it look exactly the same.

I also experimented with a bead roller that I had and accomplished the same thing...only problem is it takes practice and a lot of oh S**t moments...LOL

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by islandtrader

If you use your homemade break and a long 2x4 you can put the slight bend into the luggage door panel edge if you want to make it look exactly the same.

I also experimented with a bead roller that I had and accomplished the same thing...only problem is it takes practice and a lot of oh S**t moments...LOL

I’ve never used a bead roller. Heard a lot about it, but never seen one used. While it’s cold and the 55 is in the barn, we’re trying to take care of the small miscellaneous items before we move her outside under cover. As soon as there’s room, I can set up the woodworking stuff in the barn for the interior. Nothing but fun. Thanks, Bubba

[HiHoAgRV]

An elcheapo bead roller comes in handy when messing around with a '50's trailer. I rolled closed the edges of the hatch/window frames and added that little edge fold detail. Also recreating the offset around the edge of the main door if you reskin it. I can't show the frame going thru the roller because 1) the sun is in the wrong place for a photo and 2) it's 18 degrees here and too cold to clean off all the junk on my work table. (Smile)

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

An elcheapo bead roller comes in handy when messing around with a '50's trailer. I rolled closed the edges of the hatch/window frames and added that little edge fold detail. Also recreating the offset around the edge of the main door if you reskin it. I can't show the frame going thru the roller because 1) the sun is in the wrong place for a photo and 2) it's 18 degrees here and too cold to clean off all the junk on my work table. (Smile)

A bead roller it is. It looks like fun and I haven’t asked for a tool since Christmas. Will look around today. It really finishes out the edge and will receive the gasket a lot better. Thanks for the pics. Bubba

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

A bead roller it is. It looks like fun and I haven’t asked for a tool since Christmas. Will look around today. It really finishes out the edge and will receive the gasket a lot better. Thanks for the pics. Bubba

I got mine at https://www.eastwood.com

[Bubba L]

Trying to get the exterior sealed so I can move it outside; I need to be able to access my woodworking tools.
Made a little progress: Drip cap installed over the jalousie, finished and installed the hatch door and installed the tail/license lights. Originally, our hatch door was hinged on the top; I reversed it and placed the hinge on the bottom - just personal preference.



Santa brought me a vintage 1955 trailer license plate; we took it to the courthouse today to make sure there would be no problems using it. I still had the original license light fixture, but had to order the license plate bracket from VTS. I installed the license plate light using rivet nuts. I like rivet nuts better than sheet metal screws because they're aluminum and will hold up to vibration better.


I installed the light cans for the Bargman #9 lens (from VTS) using 6/32 stainless steel screws with nylocks on the back. The back will eventually be sealed with Flex Seal. I inserted rivet nuts for 8/32 stainless steel screws to receive the trim and lens.


The only thing left to get it dried in is the door.....stay tuned!

[DFlores]

Very good work

[Bubba L]

Thanks David. That means a lot coming from someone who has accomplished what y’all have on your 68. Bubba

[utahredrock]

Looking amazing! Good work.

Wish I could have done this with my '62 Safari.

Lacking at least some of: time, money, and/or skills . . . it just wasn't going to happen. Still LOVE these vintage trailers, and especially love seeing a full renovation.

[mimiandrews]

It's looking good. Really, really good!

[Bubba L]

Thanks Jim and Mimi. Being retired, I do have the time. We use a lot of the old aluminum and cardboard to build prototypes so money is not wasted. As far as the skill, I build prototypes until it’s acceptable. None of this stuff is easy. But it sure is fun. Thanks, Bubba

[Bubba L]

I bought the Bargman #9 taillight assembly from VTS, but wanted to change the single incandescent bulb supplied to an LED diode board for better visibility. I couldn't find a board that wasn't contained in a sealed assembly, so I bought a Grand General 76452 Fleet Red 4" Round 18-LED Stop/Turn/Tail Sealed Light assembly from empirechromeshop.com (also available at Amazon and other locations) and proceeded to operate on the fixture with my dremel. My plan was to remove the diode board from the fixture and attach it to the back of the bezel of the Bargman #9 so that it could easily be replaced by removing 4 rivnut screws (I think I mentioned on a previous post that I used rivnuts to attach the bezel to the can/trailer).

I first cut and pried off the red lens. Then I cut around the perimeter of the backside to free the diode board from the outer ring casing. I cut just deep enough to penetrate the casing so as not to damage the diode board. I then cut a 2.5" circle around the electrical plug on the backside and removed the 3 screws that attached the board to the outer ring I was removing. I had to notch the diode board slightly for the screws. This is where I made my first mistake because I notched too deeply and must have severed a perimeter wire. I ended up rectifying this by placing a small piece of aluminum tape inside the notches to restore the continuity. I then cut a slightly larger aluminum ring to use as a compression ring and transferred the location of the bezel/lens screw holes to the aluminum ring. This aluminum ring will fit over four 6/32 screws that hold the lens to the bezel, but I had to get longer (1") 6/32 screws to allow for a locknut.




The diode board called for a straight stop, turn & tail plug. The VTS light can came with a 12v, 2 wire socket. I pulled the wires out and used the holes in the socket to thread the 2 hot wires of the new plug. I drilled a hole through the can to receive an 8/32 screw and locknut to secure the ground wire.




This may have been more work than needed; if anybody has a better idea, please share!

Thanks,
Bubba

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

I bought the Bargman #9

This may have been more work than needed; if anybody has a better idea, please share!

Thanks,
Bubba

This place looks like they have everything and anything...did you look here??

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/...il-brake-turn/

[Boxite]

That seemed a lot of work to get similar results to this: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lig...s/STL42RB.html

What did I miss?

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Boxite

That seemed a lot of work to get similar results to this: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lig...s/STL42RB.html

What did I miss?

I appreciate the information. I would still have to take this one apart. Reason being is we want to use the original Bargman #9 bezel and the original Traillite #6 Lens. I would have to remove their bezel and connector. With their connector, the unit is 1 7/8” wide and the wall thickness is only 1 1/2”. But it may be less work with the unit you mentioned, but it is also twice the price. But thanks again for relaying this info. I will look into it further and see which one makes more sense. Thanks, Bubba