Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[jjmtb]

You have taken this to another level. Great job.

[Bubba L]

We're continuing to work on the exterior skin. We've completely replaced all lower panels. They were either corroded, badly dented and/or had holes created by a creative previous owner. The last panels we want to replace are midway up on the curb and street sides. We had not intended to replace these originally; however, given the condition of the panels and the ease of replacing them, we didn't want to be sorry for not taking the extra time and effort to do it now.


While replacing the exterior panels, it bothers me that the horizontal stringers are not attached to the vertical ribs. I am not sure if there was a reason for this. I have attached them using L brackets and it has given more rigidity, but I am not sure this is the right thing to do. Comments anyone?


As we work on the skin, we're trying to research how to best conceal an air conditioner. We like the idea of a ducted mini split unit for its efficiency and ultra quiet operation. We don't have room on the original tongue for the compressor, so it will have to go inside and vent through the skin/belly. We've seen lots of threads, but nothing with a concealed mini split. Would like to hear any ideas.

[DFlores]

Absolutely Beautiful!!!!!!

[Bubba L]

Thanks David. Having been in your 68 you spectacularly renovated, that's a great compliment.

[goransons]

Doing great work! Does your front jalousie window have 3" or 4" glass? Wondering if yours is the Hehr or non-hehr window. Also on your other standard windows, did you bench polish them or do something else in place? I want mine to look clean but not mirror.

[Bubba L]

Goransons, our jalousie is the 3" non-hehr. Other than replacing some steel screws that holds the frame together with stainless screws, it's in fairly good shape. I have to order some of the steel retainer springs that holds the panes in place. I'll be getting those from Blaine Window Hardware (part 0085-050). The clip dimensions seem to match mine. As far as the window frames, I will clean up with a bench grinder using Caswell bars. The PO had drilled holes in some of the frames and screwed them shut. I will buck flush rivets in those holes and file the stem down a bit. I ordered a couple sheets of 3003 H14 and will attempt to make a couple of the frames that are just too bent up to straighten. You may want to contact Blaine to see what they have that you may need. Good luck

[goransons]

Cool. I'm making a few for glass too. They seem to bend up ok. How's your top and bottom weatherstrip? I'm working on a replacement with vintage trailer shop. I'll let you know what I find out. He's sending me some to test out. Thanks for the part number I need to order some as well.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by goransons

Cool. I'm making a few for glass too. They seem to bend up ok. How's your top and bottom weatherstrip? I'm working on a replacement with vintage trailer shop. I'll let you know what I find out. He's sending me some to test out. Thanks for the part number I need to order some as well.

The top and bottom jealousie weatherstripping is there, but brittle. Mine are 3" short. Don't know if that was intentional or it fell apart. And yes, I would be interested to see if VTS can successfully replicate these. Thanks, Bubba

[goransons]

It must have shrunk. Here's the profile. I'll update you as soon as I get it.

[goransons]

[goransons]

Robert from Vintage Trailer Shop sent me samples of what he has in stock. Of the samples he sent me, two fit very well. The spline isn't triangular but slides in snug.

Option 1 is the same wiper style (it happens to be clear).



I think that one fits closest

There is a different profile in gray that also fits. And is slightly stiffer.

I'm going to order the clear for mine so I can get things buttoned up soon.

Hope this helps. I'm going to send him a sample of the original gasket and see if he wants to copy it exactly but the lead time will be awhile and from the looks of it you'd only be able to install it by drilling out the whole window and sliding it out from the end of the extrusion. The new clear gasket I was able to slide in from the end but with a little work I was also able to push it in with a putty knife which means it could go in with some work without a total tear down

[Bubba L]

Goransons, thanks for the update. I would like to contact Robert next week and see if I can order the same type you're using.
Also on a different note. I'm replacing quite a bit of the exterior skin due to damage and PO modifications. Concerning the horizontal stringers and ribs, would you connect those? Originally, the stringers were not connected to the ribs and just floated. I don't want to build in too much rigidity, but want a structurally sound shell. Thanks

[goransons]

I've seen it both ways on California built trailers (I've never worked on an Ohio trailer, not many made their way out here). The simple fact that it lasted 60+ years means it worked ok, would it work better connected, perhaps but I also acknowledge your concern about being too rigid. I found in our 62 tradewind that the cross braces in the ceiling were connected on the inside edge only (and cut back at an angle with just basically a tail to rivet to the bow) and held back from the bow at the outside skin by as much as an inch.

I figured at the time that it would add some rigidity but in retrospect I'm wondering if it wasn't simply to hold them in place while they set the top skins on so that it didn't dip between bows, plus it would have held the bow spacing during production.

Both trailers we own have bows that end in the middle of windows, over wheel wells, or didn't originally even reach the floor in some places. Sloppy work for sure, but the flex seemed to hold up. Both trailers we own have Jalousie windows which are very rigid, and both have cracks in the skin near at least one of those windows where the rigid window won the battle and the skin lost.

if you wanted to copy Airstream and use some strap material to connected them on one edge or the other, I don't see the harm, you're really just creating a second layer of skin type contact, but I'm not sure you gain a whole lot as I think the cross braces really on serve as spacers to keep the walls more even inside and out.

I'm not an engineer, so take my 2 cents as just that. Love the work you're doing. I'm putting about 30' of new metal on the outside of the 55, about 12' cleco'd in place so far. Lots more to do!

[goransons]

The weatherstrip is now active on his website. part number: 0114uwm2s

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by goransons

The weatherstrip is now active on his website. part number: 0114uwm2s

Thanks Scott. I looked it up and I'll be ordering. Now I have to figure out whatever else is needed to seal the jalousie glass slats when closed. Thanks

[goransons]

Heard from Robert today asking me to clean the bottom left inside edge and look for a stamp. I haven't pulled one to polish but he was correct (perhaps you had already shared that) there is a Clearview stamp.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by goransons

Heard from Robert today asking me to clean the bottom left inside edge and look for a stamp. I haven't pulled one to polish but he was correct (perhaps you had already shared that) there is a Clearview stamp. Attachment 293518

Scott, had a long conversation with Robert the other day. Apparently, your jalousie window and mine are identical. I have the same stamp and patent number. I think we determined the manufacturer was Parlyn. Evidently they are still around. Robert is sending me some gasket samples, particularly the weatherstripping pieces you will use. All that is interesting. Thanks, Bubba

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

While replacing the exterior panels, it bothers me that the horizontal stringers are not attached to the vertical ribs. I am not sure if there was a reason for this. I have attached them using L brackets and it has given more rigidity, but I am not sure this is the right thing to do. Comments anyone?

Appreciate all the responses on this topic as well as input from Aerowood. I got one more input by posting this question to TheVap podcast episode 281. Colin Hyde has certified aircraft mechanics working for him; he responded that attaching the stringers to the ribs would not make the structure too rigid. It can be made too flexible, but not too rigid.

[Bubba L]

Streetside middle panel replaced.


Where the streetside middle panel overlaps the edge of the top center panel, there were no supporting stringers between the ribs. So I added 16ga C channel stringers as shown below.

[goransons]

Did you find a source for the glass retainer clips? I need 8 of them. right now I have a piece of the rubber used on hehr windows pressed in there but they don't hold as well because the ledge isn't as wide. I saw a Parlyn glass security clips but they are 3 3/8" long and the panes are only 3" long, the original clips being about an inch long.