Tale of a '55 FC Whale Reno

[jjmtb]

I agree, it seems like a pita to have to pull the window to replace the gasket.

But... Hopefully you only have to do it every 20-30 years.

I also feel that having a gasket between the window and skin will provide a better overall seal than sealant or type of caulk. It has to and replacing sealant often would be a pain as well.

I also wonder if the seal provides some isolation from vibration, rattles, and twists being transmitted from the shell to the window. Possibly preventing cracking of the window or premature wear of the window frame?

My thoughts...


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[Bubba L]

Thanks for the input jjmtb; sounds reasonable.

Back to work, the step was in pretty bad shape. The side rails (only 14ga C-channel) were bent and broken and a step stud, that slides in the side rail slot, had a groove worn in it from years of use. I straightened the side rails and reinforced them with a plate cut from an old outrigger. I made the reinforcing plate with the same slot pattern and welded it to the inside of the C-channel by drilling multiple holes in the plate and puddle welding it to the C-channel. Furthermore, I took a 14ga tube and welded it on the outside of each C-channel for additional reinforcement.

The worn stud was fixed by welding a bead to it to build it back up.

Next step will be to modify the frame's cross members for tanks. Grey tank(s) and possibly fresh water tank(s) will go in the frame.

Speaking of the frame, does anybody know what the ball (pictured) bolted to the curbside of the tongue was used for? Don't know if PO added it or if it was original.

[Boxite]

That is an anti-sway ball to accommodate a friction-type antisway bar.

It doesn't hurt to just leave it in place and ignore it if you wish.

Here's an example: http://www.googleadservices.com/page...QvhcIMg&adurl=

[RankAm]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Appreciate any who are following this thread!
For those of you with Hehr Standard Windows, I have a question:

We need to re-gasket our Hehr Standard windows. VTS has a replacement for the original Hehr Standard Backframe Gasket (below) that looks like a D gasket with an L shaped flap under the D. To attach the gasket, the flap is compressed between the backframe and the skin leaving the D shape between the backframe and the window. This means that anytime the gasket needs replacing, the window, then the backframe (attached via rivets or screws) has to be removed. In the interest of ease of maintenance, would it not be just as effective to silicone & rivet the backframe to the skin, then use a D gasket on top of the backframe (between the window and the backframe)?

Any thoughts?.............

I am not using the backframe gasket on my '56 windows. Instead, I used countersunk/flathead rivets to attach the backframe flush to the sidewall (using Vulkem/Trempro). I will attach a "D" gasket to the inside of the swinging window.

Hank

[Bubba L]

Thanks Boxite - you are right, that's exactly what it was.

RankAm - where did you get the flat heat rivets/set and what tool was needed to countersink?

[Bubba L]

We decided to incorporate a spare tire rack in the front A-frame. I have seen this on some of the forum threads and it made sense to me. In photo #1 & 2, I made a cardboard template of the exact configuration of the front and a tire template. There's not much space in this area, so the rack had to be pretty exact.

I decided to use materials I had on hand which was 3/4" x 3/4" square tube with 1/8" walls. I laid out the tubing on the cardboard template and cut all the pieces. Once the pieces were welded, I laid the rack in the A-frame space to make sure all was clearing the frame members. I supported the rack and set our Safari spare on the supported rack to make sure the tire would clear and where the 1/2" vertical tire support rods would be welded.

The next step was to figure out the supports for the rack on the cross member. I had some 1" x 2" tubing laying around that I used for the drops. I welded those to the cross member and drilled 5/8" holes in the bottom for a rod. I used a stainless steel threaded rod passing through the end of the rack members and the bottom of the drop to act as a hinge, in sorts. I drilled holes on each end of the rod, placed a washer and nut, and inserted a hairpin cotter pin on both ends. This way if I ever hit road debris and bend the rack, I can remove it and repair.

Once the rack was in place and I tried the spare tire to make sure all fit, I needed to fabricate a means to hold the rack in place. I cut a couple of small pieces of 1/8" plate. I notched the gusset piece to receive the strap hinged on the front rack bar. I bolted the gusset back plate to the front cross member.

The bottom of the rack has a 9" ground clearance. Once we install the new axle from Colin, that will give us a little more clearance. Once I get into the plywood deck and bottom insulation, I will have room above the spare tire for 1" of foam insulation and aluminum sheeting.

[mimiandrews]

Fantastic! Bubba, your skill and workmanship continues to amaze me. Keep the plans for that spare tire rack--I need one.

[DFlores]

Subscribed, in for the long haul


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David & Diane

[Bubba L]

It's been awhile since our last post, but we can get back to business now that our axle finally arrived.

The original leaf spring axle had 2 points of attachment on each side of the frame, which spread the load. With the torsion axle, there is a single point load which led me to fabricate a longer mounting plate and sandwiching the frame between this plate and a 4"x48"x1/4" stiffener plate on the other side. This adds a little weight to the frame but peace of mind knowing there is rigidity around the axle. On the mounting and stiffener plates, I drilled 1/2" holes 8" on center so that the welder could puddle weld them to the frame for additional points of attachment.

Before I took it to the welder, I triangulated off the hitch with a tape measure and added benchmarks to each side of the frame to aid in positioning the axle square to the chassis. At the shop, we bolted the new mounting plates to the axle and positioned the axle under the trailer. Then we centered the spindle between the outriggers on the street side and clamped the mounting plate to the frame. We took a framing square to mark the location of the axle on the top of the frame and measured to the benchmark. On the curbside, we measured the same distance from the benchmark and used a square off that mark to position the axle tube.

Colin Hyde recommended a vertical shock, so I fabricated a shock bracket, as shown, with a spacer plate attached to the mounting plate. The original, galvanized wheel wells were only 13" deep, so the spacer plate was needed to keep the shock and mounting bar inside the wheel well.

The POR15 is ordered, so next task is painting, then gray tank positioning, ordering and installation. More to come.......

[Bubba L]

Here are two items originally attached to the bumper and jack mast. Any idea what they are? They look like flag holders?

[56 Flyg Cld]

Bubba, I have been following your post with great interest. We are about ready for shell lift off, hopefully in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to hearing about your grey and fresh water tanks. My fresh water was located under the bed on the curb side and I'm thinking about putting it back there, with grey water takes over the new axle. Did you opt for the disk brakes ? Hope to hear more about your progress, thanks for posting.

[Bubba L]

56 Flyg Cld, our fresh water tank was located under the front gaucho. We plan on keeping it there as it matches up with the exterior fill on the front of the trailer. We will be going with a composting toilet to eliminate the black tank altogether. We'll add two 16 gallon grey water tanks from VTS. They are 3 7/8" in height which will fit within the belly pan. I've already adjusted some of the 2"x4" cross members to accommodate those. I'm placing one tank forward of the axle and the other aft of the axle. The reasoning for this was due to the tight fit of the axle tube (with camber) to the underside of the belly pan. If I ever have the need to work on one of the tanks, I won't have the axle to contend with. We went with a 5000# Al-Ko Axis axle with 12" electric drum brakes from Colin.
Take plenty of floor measurements before the lift. After I lifted our shell off the chassis, the shell had a tendency to flex quite a bit. I'm relying on my original dimensions to build the subfloor. The radius corners on mine were +- 22". I'm sure I will need to adjust the shell when installing.
Also, If you let me know what your 56 FC serial number is, we will add it to CaptainJones Flying Cloud Registry.
Hope this helps.
Thanks

[goshawks00]

One thing I found invaluable , mark lines on the inside or outside and use those materials is in lining up the body when reattaching.

[calais66]

Looks great! I've heard that replacing leaf springs with torsion axels adds height/clearance. Was this the case for you? If so, approximately how much?

[goshawks00]

When i ordered my torsion axle from Colin Hyde I ordered it with different angle so it wouldn't set so high. There is also a company that makes adjustable torsion axles , but I don't remember who it is

[56 Flyg Cld]

Bubba, Thanks for the info. For the registry we are 8090 and my name is Dirk Gardner, let me know if you need anything else. Thanks again !

[Bubba L]

calais66, we opted with the 22.5 degree down torsion bar which raised the trailer about 1 1/2". At first, I fabricated the mounting plates to allow an added inch clearance since the axle tube would be dead against the bottom of the belly pan and I couldn't get propane lines over the cambered tube. In our design, all of our appliances requiring propane is forward of the axle, so I went back to Colin's original design of the mounting plate. I don't see a problem with the tube against the belly pan.

goshawks00, unfortunately, our flooring was in such a mess, there was really not much left to place a mark on. I did screw 2x6 spreaders into the ribs at the floor line to make sure the flexion was minimized when lifting the shell. My inside floor width is 87" and the corner radii are 22" which I understand is not always the same on many of the 50s models.
Also, with the legal dumping of grey water on the ground back then, there is only one street side vent hole on top. I'm hoping I can dump the kitchen sink, bath sink, and shower into the two grey water tanks and be able to utilize the one vent. I don't plan on running all inside faucets at one time. So, a vent on each of the two tanks tied together forming one vent exiting the trailer. I wouldn't think running one, or even two faucets at once, would overwhelm the 1 1/4" vent tube. Your thoughts?

56 Flyg Cld, you are on the FC registry. Thanks

[goshawks00]

Both our grey water tanks are tied together, each have individual vents,. both are 1/2" vents, mounted at each tank, and tied together for one outside vent. There is no black tank as we will have a composting unit. You should be fine. Your vent will let what little gas is created out and more importantly cause equal pressure so the tanks don't expand, a 1/2 " is more than enough for that.

[DFlores]

You got the frame to the welder? Looks like your ready to go with POR.


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[Bubba L]

David, the frame is almost ready for the Por 15. I want any and all miscellaneous welding done before the Por. I'll compete the tank support straps tomorrow. I'm attaching these to the cross members with 1/4"-20 stainless steel flat head screws with lock nuts. If I mess up, I can remove the supports and tanks after the floor is on. I also want to weld an added brace on the rear corners for added support at the toilet area and the hold down plates. Last, I'm prepping the hitch area to receive an electric jack if we decide to install one. This weather is perfect for Por. You are invited to the painting party. Thanks