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Old 08-19-2016, 07:18 AM   #15
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1964 22' Safari
1968 26' Overlander
Beaver County , Pennsylvania
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Bubba and Stephanie,

Great project, thanks for sharing. I'm just chiming in to follow along.

BTW, we worked with Colin to order our '68 axles and the replacement job was perfect. Every bolt hole lined up.

Enjoy the project and keep posting!

Roy and Marie
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:14 PM   #16
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Beginning Frame Work

Hi all,

Stephanie's been stripping paint from the roof and I am continuing to work toward repairing the frame. For the most part, it's in pretty good shape for the age. Some of the 15" outriggers have been bent, rusted through, or compromised by a PO (see photo of 4" hole below). I decided to fabricate some using the 14ga 2"X4" tube versus the channel. I know the tube adds a little weight, but not much. Since our '55 has the same tubing for the main frames, I figured why not add a little stability to the outriggers. On ours, there were two elevator bolts securing the plywood to the outriggers. As you can see in the photo, I cut a hole where I wouldn't be able to get to the inner most bolt. Now I can get a 3/8" socket in there and tighten the bolt when we cross that bridge. Also, I decided to drill three weep holes on the lower side of each member. Don't know if I'm on the right track or not, but I figured if any water got in the tube, it would drain into the belly pan. When we get all assembled and coat with the Por 15, I may try and spray the inside of the outriggers just to be on the safe side.

I know that some forum members have installed a "stiffener" piece of aluminum sheeting at the banana wrap. If I get energetic, I may weld a 4"- 14ga strap on the curved end of the outriggers to have something to rivet the stiffener sheet to. If anyone in forum land can see future issues in the direction I'm headed, please let me know. I welcome any and all criticism, good or bad.

We've also been shopping for grey water tanks; not an easy feat to find them less than 4" deep. VTS and IncaPlastics are the only suppliers located so far and those tanks are 16gals or less which will necessitate installing 2 tanks in tandem. Having a single tank custom fabricated will cost twice as much as purchasing the ready made tanks.

And to free up space above the floor, we're considering duplicating the grey tank setup for the fresh water below the floor.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:28 PM   #17
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
1975 20' Argosy 20
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Bubba L,

Great project!! I also have a '55 Flying Cloud whale tail that has gone through a shell off, frame up restoration/renovation. I'm looking forward to seeing another vintage Airstream being brought back to life!! BTW, I purchased my '55 (before restoration) from someone in Lubbock, TX.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:13 AM   #18
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Outrigger End Caps

When we got the FC, the ends of some outriggers had punched through the banana wrap. It may be overkill, but this is the solution I came up with to give the belly pan more support at the end of the outriggers. I stitch welded a 16ga plate to the curved end of the outrigger.
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Old 08-24-2016, 02:30 PM   #19
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That's awesome.


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Old 08-25-2016, 09:49 AM   #20
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Hehr Window Gaskets

Appreciate any who are following this thread!
For those of you with Hehr Standard Windows, I have a question:

We need to re-gasket our Hehr Standard windows. VTS has a replacement for the original Hehr Standard Backframe Gasket (below) that looks like a D gasket with an L shaped flap under the D. To attach the gasket, the flap is compressed between the backframe and the skin leaving the D shape between the backframe and the window. This means that anytime the gasket needs replacing, the window, then the backframe (attached via rivets or screws) has to be removed. In the interest of ease of maintenance, would it not be just as effective to silicone & rivet the backframe to the skin, then use a D gasket on top of the backframe (between the window and the backframe)?

Any thoughts?.............
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:11 PM   #21
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appleton , Wisconsin
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I agree, it seems like a pita to have to pull the window to replace the gasket.

But... Hopefully you only have to do it every 20-30 years.

I also feel that having a gasket between the window and skin will provide a better overall seal than sealant or type of caulk. It has to and replacing sealant often would be a pain as well.

I also wonder if the seal provides some isolation from vibration, rattles, and twists being transmitted from the shell to the window. Possibly preventing cracking of the window or premature wear of the window frame?

My thoughts...


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Old 08-29-2016, 06:45 PM   #22
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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The Step

Thanks for the input jjmtb; sounds reasonable.

Back to work, the step was in pretty bad shape. The side rails (only 14ga C-channel) were bent and broken and a step stud, that slides in the side rail slot, had a groove worn in it from years of use. I straightened the side rails and reinforced them with a plate cut from an old outrigger. I made the reinforcing plate with the same slot pattern and welded it to the inside of the C-channel by drilling multiple holes in the plate and puddle welding it to the C-channel. Furthermore, I took a 14ga tube and welded it on the outside of each C-channel for additional reinforcement.

The worn stud was fixed by welding a bead to it to build it back up.

Next step will be to modify the frame's cross members for tanks. Grey tank(s) and possibly fresh water tank(s) will go in the frame.

Speaking of the frame, does anybody know what the ball (pictured) bolted to the curbside of the tongue was used for? Don't know if PO added it or if it was original.
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Old 08-29-2016, 06:51 PM   #23
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That is an anti-sway ball to accommodate a friction-type antisway bar.

It doesn't hurt to just leave it in place and ignore it if you wish.

Here's an example: http://www.googleadservices.com/page...QvhcIMg&adurl=
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:20 AM   #24
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Dallas , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba L View Post
Appreciate any who are following this thread!
For those of you with Hehr Standard Windows, I have a question:

We need to re-gasket our Hehr Standard windows. VTS has a replacement for the original Hehr Standard Backframe Gasket (below) that looks like a D gasket with an L shaped flap under the D. To attach the gasket, the flap is compressed between the backframe and the skin leaving the D shape between the backframe and the window. This means that anytime the gasket needs replacing, the window, then the backframe (attached via rivets or screws) has to be removed. In the interest of ease of maintenance, would it not be just as effective to silicone & rivet the backframe to the skin, then use a D gasket on top of the backframe (between the window and the backframe)?

Any thoughts?.............
I am not using the backframe gasket on my '56 windows. Instead, I used countersunk/flathead rivets to attach the backframe flush to the sidewall (using Vulkem/Trempro). I will attach a "D" gasket to the inside of the swinging window.

Hank
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:21 AM   #25
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Thanks Boxite - you are right, that's exactly what it was.

RankAm - where did you get the flat heat rivets/set and what tool was needed to countersink?
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:31 AM   #26
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Spare Tire Rack

We decided to incorporate a spare tire rack in the front A-frame. I have seen this on some of the forum threads and it made sense to me. In photo #1 & 2, I made a cardboard template of the exact configuration of the front and a tire template. There's not much space in this area, so the rack had to be pretty exact.

I decided to use materials I had on hand which was 3/4" x 3/4" square tube with 1/8" walls. I laid out the tubing on the cardboard template and cut all the pieces. Once the pieces were welded, I laid the rack in the A-frame space to make sure all was clearing the frame members. I supported the rack and set our Safari spare on the supported rack to make sure the tire would clear and where the 1/2" vertical tire support rods would be welded.

The next step was to figure out the supports for the rack on the cross member. I had some 1" x 2" tubing laying around that I used for the drops. I welded those to the cross member and drilled 5/8" holes in the bottom for a rod. I used a stainless steel threaded rod passing through the end of the rack members and the bottom of the drop to act as a hinge, in sorts. I drilled holes on each end of the rod, placed a washer and nut, and inserted a hairpin cotter pin on both ends. This way if I ever hit road debris and bend the rack, I can remove it and repair.

Once the rack was in place and I tried the spare tire to make sure all fit, I needed to fabricate a means to hold the rack in place. I cut a couple of small pieces of 1/8" plate. I notched the gusset piece to receive the strap hinged on the front rack bar. I bolted the gusset back plate to the front cross member.

The bottom of the rack has a 9" ground clearance. Once we install the new axle from Colin, that will give us a little more clearance. Once I get into the plywood deck and bottom insulation, I will have room above the spare tire for 1" of foam insulation and aluminum sheeting.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:26 AM   #27
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Fantastic! Bubba, your skill and workmanship continues to amaze me. Keep the plans for that spare tire rack--I need one.
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Old 12-24-2016, 03:12 PM   #28
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Subscribed, in for the long haul


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