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Old 10-25-2009, 12:49 AM   #197
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1954 25' Cruiser
Kyle , The Republic of Texas
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Another couple of days, and a few steps closer

Steve - Beautiful work for sure. Congratulations to you & Bob on a job well done!!
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:38 AM   #198
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It looks terrific. I'm especially impressed that you did it in one piece. On my 63 the middle is separate from the two corner pieces. Like they say, "many hands make light work".
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Old 10-25-2009, 05:28 AM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
Saturday, October 24, 2009


Hope you enjoyed
Are you going to add a front and rear hold down plates.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ose-41064.html

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Old 10-25-2009, 09:35 AM   #200
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This trailer never had a front or rear steel plate attached to it. In there front there were several sheets of aluminum to stiffen the panels up. I did install a thick and heavy piece of aluminum angle there to attach the shell to, and that has to be better than the original.

Steve
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:52 AM   #201
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1956 30' Sovereign of the Road
1963 16' Bambi
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No front or rear hholding plate? I'm not sure about my '56. Maybe it was a California thing? It's amazing to me the variations in construction seen in many of the 50's trailers that aren't revealed until tear-down. I know standardization didn't take hold at Airstream until sometime in the 60's, but I can't help but wonder what guided assembly on any given day. Since so many survived after 50 years,
I guess it is a non-issue.

It's looking awesome, Steve.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:49 AM   #202
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I will throw this out while I am still working on panels, belly pan, and windows for hopes I can get something when I am ready.

I am wanting to add a fresh water holding tank in the front area where previously nothing existed. I have found several tanks new on ebay that have a fill fitting, and several fittings for drain and venting. The problem is that all these vent fittings are for 3/8 hose. While I have several options for 3/8 fittings through the standard RV products, they are all ugly, and would ruin the vintage look. This next kit comes with everything I need for the tank above.

I have found a number of stainless deck fills and vents in the marine industry that look great, but require a 5/8 vent instead.

The tank price is extremely economical in my eyes, and worth it vs a custom tank. Should I just suck it up and go with the ugly look?

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Old 11-02-2009, 09:28 AM   #203
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stay true to the project.

No plastic crap. I found a real nice vintage looking fill fitting in stainless, from Boaterbits on EBAY. Keep up the good work.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:37 AM   #204
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No plastic crap. I found a real nice vintage looking fill fitting in stainless, from Boaterbits on EBAY. Keep up the good work.
What about the tank fittings and vent sizes?
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:55 PM   #205
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Well...I had a nice long posting all drawn out, and then my computer decided to go into shutdown mode, and the draft I saved is NOWHERE to be found. In short, Bob and I were able to use our 4 hour half day to good use, and got the front window reinstalled into the trailer. Rebuilding this window took a very long time, and there are a great number of parts to it even though it may not look like it.



We started by finishing the reassembly of the windw since I had missed a few rivets while I was last working on it months ago. I popped them into place, and slid in the newly rebuilt sash. I didn't have my camera, so sorry for no pics.



Next we dry fit the window into place. These old 50's windows sandwiches in between the top of the front curved panel, and a bracing panel that is inside the front endcap. This was done to assist in shedding water and help with rigidity. The holes lined up perfectly, but we had a couple of holes that would not hold tight with a 5/32 cleco fastener.



Window in place with clecos



After the dry fit, we removed the window and I applied a hefty bead of vulkem on three sides of the window opening where the windo would overlap the skin. The top would be vulkemed later once the window was installed.



Be liberal with sealant, and clean it up later before it is completely cured.


We placed the window back in the opening and seated it against the bead of vulkem. We then clecoed through the holes and proceeded to buck rivet the window into place. Each rivet squeezed a little more vulkem out the sides of the window ensuring me a water tight fit. A few holes that were too wide for a 5/32 solid rivet were replaced with olympic rivets. These worked like a charm. After the riveting, I proceeded to wipe off the excess vulkem with a laquer thinner soaked rag. I shaved the few olympics that we had to install with Bob's shaver tool, and we were done.


Get the mess off now or be sorry later.
We were running out of daylight quickly, and the sun had already gone over the horizon. We were working off the streetlight, and decided that we couldn't get much more done. I decided last minute to install the drip cap over the window to have a complete front window ensemble. I applied a liberal bead of sealant to the back of the drip cap, and used olympics in the installation. The originals were buck rivets, but I wanted the ease of olympics in the little light we had. I shaved the mandrels off, wiped the sealant residue, and called it a night.

Rebuilt window fully riveted and sealed

The Cylon

More work tomorrow with hopes of getting a couple more windows installed and the front panel completely fastened.
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:19 PM   #206
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Interesting ... Facebook friends reply but Forums friends are slackers ...
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:24 PM   #207
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Maybe we didn't WoW anyone today Bob!

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Old 11-02-2009, 10:25 PM   #208
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Maybe we didn't WoW anyone today Bob!

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Guess not ... same ole, same ole!
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:57 PM   #209
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Looks good! How many hours you figure you have into that front window from removal, rebuild and reinstall? Looks like a ton of work.
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:50 PM   #210
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Flying Cloud to Texas?

So Steve I can't believe your not gonna pull her down here to Texas for the Vintage Rally next Feb.?????
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