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CaptainJones · 11-04-2009, 12:32 PM

If you have access to a drill press you could drill a line of holes and then clean it up with a metal file.
I have started making some of the small pieces i need for my trailer. While they don't look as good as the original at least I have something. You are right, finding some parts is impossible.

Xbob2 · 11-04-2009, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

There were no standards of assembly back in 53 I have discovered, and I have had to rescreen a few times because I assembled the window the same as another only to realize that it wouldn't work after cutting a hole in the screen.

My biggest issue right now is that I do not have the aluminum grommets that hold the screen against the back channel. All of mine broke in removal, and nobody sells them. It's a piece of aluminum with a straight slit punched through it for the operator arm. If anyone has extras, has an idea ot bypass this, or can make some...let me know. Here is a picture.

Bob and I got two more windows and caps installed yesterday, and would have had a thrid if the aforementioned issue with the non standardized layouts have occurred.

Steve

Steve,
I think we can make these ... I have a dremel tool and almost know how to use it! (The slots would be oval.)
Bob

soldiermedic · 11-04-2009, 02:57 PM

Well Bob...if you can bring that there dremel over next time we can give it a shot. The old ones broke upon removal. I think the oval shape would be okay as long as the operator has a bottom edge to rest on.

Steve

Sugarfoot · 11-04-2009, 05:32 PM

You know, I didn't realize until looking at yours, then looking at my '56s pics, that the screen is sandwiched between the vertical frame bars and the operators.

I think our operators are different (didn't they change in '56 to the crank?) but same basic window design. I can see how rebuild is so time-intensive. This means rescreening if necessary in the future will be a royal PITA, doesn't it?

Looks like you're moving along, Steve. So next time you and Amy come to Chattanooga you'll be parking the Cloud in Mom's yard?

Xbob2 · 11-04-2009, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugarfoot

You know, I didn't realize until looking at yours, then looking at my '56s pics, that the screen is sandwiched between the vertical frame bars and the operators.

I think our operators are different (didn't they change in '56 to the crank?) but same basic window design. I can see how rebuild is so time-intensive. This means rescreening if necessary in the future will be a royal PITA, doesn't it?

Looks like you're moving along, Steve. So next time you and Amy come to Chattanooga you'll be parking the Cloud in Mom's yard?

Not bad for a thread killing statement ...
Bob

Sugarfoot · 11-04-2009, 07:41 PM

No thread killing intended.

Xbob2 · 11-04-2009, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugarfoot

No thread killing intended.

GOOD!
Bob

soldiermedic · 11-06-2009, 06:58 PM

Bob and I got a great deal of stuff done today. I don't have pictures since we finished at dark, but will get some tomorrow.

In short here is what we completed.

1. Finished riveting front panel in on all sides
2. Fabricated and installed panel forward of the door
3. Installed Hehr window forward of the door
4. Riveted side panel all the way back to the street side wheel well

It may not sound like alot, but the trailer is really coming together. The door will be a huge project as it will have to be rebuilt almost completely.

We need to focus on getting the rear belly pan completed, and rebuilding the last three windows. Then Insulate, wiring, and appliance work for the water heater and fridge.

Steve

Melody Ranch · 11-06-2009, 07:16 PM

Send Bob down here when you Guys are done. Your rolling now.

Xbob2 · 11-06-2009, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

We need to focus on getting the rear belly pan completed, and rebuilding the last three windows. Then Insulate, wiring, and appliance work for the water heater and fridge.

Steve

What do you mean "WE" white man?

(OLD Mad Magazine referance ...)

soldiermedic · 11-06-2009, 07:25 PM

Me and the OOmpa Loompa's that have been working to get this done. THAT'S WHO!!!!

Xbob2 · 11-06-2009, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

Send Bob down here when you Guys are done. Your rolling now.

My EX was from Texas ... loved the SA river walk, Enchanted Rock, Colorado river, the hill country, the planes, east texas ...
Bob

soldiermedic · 11-08-2009, 05:34 PM

Here is the new panel that Bob and I installed forward of the door a few days ago. I decided to keep the original VIN plate even though VTS makes some nice new and shiny ones. Today I installed the amber beehive marker light on the panel, and finished it off with stainless steel screws.

I also finished the window forward of the door, and we bucked it into place. All of the rebuilt windows are now installed, and the other two that have been removed are almost finished (Waiting on parts from VTS).

soldiermedic · 11-08-2009, 05:35 PM

I am now turning to the issue of entry door. I am starting a new thread on the forums to hopefully draw more people than just the people reading here. In the picture below, you can see the original knob and lock that the trailer came with. The door within a door had to be trimmed to fit this setup. My door's current lock specifications are 1.5" thick, 2 1/8" backset, and 2 3/8" escutcheon. The two locks that VTS sells work for my door thickness and the escutcheon size, but the backset is required to be 2 3/8" or 2 3/4".

The metal piece that the door knob and deadbolt are attached to will be replaced due to the door opening in transit sometime in its' lifetime, and is damaged along with the door frame. It is conceivable that I could move my backset to the required 2 3/8" or 2 3/4" backset, but that would push me further into the door within a door. Anyone have ideas other than using one of the two vintage knobs? What about using on of the 60's knob sets?

goransons · 11-08-2009, 06:56 PM

I see in the other thread Andy suggested the L-100. Windows look great Steve, on the door, is the fork original? what's its purpose?

soldiermedic · 11-08-2009, 07:37 PM

Scott,

The fork was original when I brought it home. The fork is actually holding the door within a door together. The fasteners for my door within a door are not the same as all of the others out there. You can see where the fork attaches right? There was originally a spinning latch that turned and fastened the door through that part where the fork is. I am missing all the other parts other than where the fork is, and I plan to rebuild the whole thing using the fasteners that are from VTS, and are more common for the door within a door.

soldiermedic · 11-10-2009, 03:55 PM

Not alot going on here lately while I wait for a shipment from VTS. New stainless steel hinges, more hehr gasket, and a new rivet on door gasket are on the way.

I did however stop by the etrailer.com HQ and picked up some Pollak 7 pin connectors for the umbilical. I like the look more than letting the cable snake out of the frame or a hole in the belly pan. It took awhile to get everything done, but I am happy with the way it looks. The wire coming out of the receptacle will go directly into my junction box.

Steve

A-Merry-Can · 11-16-2009, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

I am now turning to the issue of entry door....

I dunno if you saw this, but my door is the same as yours. The smaller door is coved out to make room for the knob. it even has a small piece of aluminum trim that curves around the door knob, too. I'm keeping mine the same way. You could always have the small door fabbed up without the curve if you move the knob outwards. I'm going to have to so a fair amount of metal work on 2 doors sometime over the winter... fun fun fun!

JP

soldiermedic · 11-17-2009, 06:03 PM

For months I have been looking for a local company that does soda blasting, but have had little luck. The lone prospect wanted $100 per hour, $50 a bag of blasting soda, and $0.58 cents a mile to my house for gas. I was born at night, but not last night!

So last Friday I was perusing the website of everybody's favorite place to hate on. The place where cheap and poorly made Chinese tools live...Harbor Freight. They had a portable soda blaster that held 10 pounds of media on sale for $79.00. I figured at this price it was worth it even if I had to bring the tool back. I picked up the blaster, set of funnels, and a 50 pound bag of blasting soda for $145.00.

Harbor Freight's 10 lb soda blasting rig

Assembly at home took 10 minutes, and was pretty straight forward. I took it outside and set my sights on cleaning off my front and rear trim caps. The caps were covered in paint and bondo from a previous panel accident. It took a few minutes to get the adjustments right, but the blaster worked incredibly well. Last week I had applied paint stripper and took several coats of paint off, but most of it wouldn't budge. The results of soda blasting are quite amazing.

56 years of paint and bondo

After a couple minutes of blasting with medium grit blast media

Clean with minimal effort

Soda blasting causes no damage to the metal surface

Completely done stripping the paint and bondo.

With the trim cap completely stripped, we installed it using round headed stainless steel screws. The cap doesn't fit perfectly, and I suppose it never fit perfectly on the original skin either. Strategically placed sealant will clean the edge up where the cap doesn't fully mesh against the front panel.

utee94 · 11-17-2009, 07:37 PM

Looks great Steve!

Do you have any more blasting to do? I'm interested in how well the tool holds up over time. If it lasts through several jobs then I'd say it is well worth the money and effort.

Keep up the good work!
-Marcus