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Old 05-27-2009, 08:18 AM   #141
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Happy anniversary
Looks good, it must have been hard to make that first cut.
Doug
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:13 AM   #142
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Making the cut was very hard to do. Amy kept insisting to save it for next year since we ate the campground first. No way am I dedicating the freezer to that....there is always next year.

Steve
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:25 AM   #143
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Just stay in good graces with your very talented baker. Maybe invite him or her to a local rally.

Brad
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:58 AM   #144
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She was only an hour from the rally, and did receive an invite. Her family had other plans going on though, and it didn't work out.

The cake wasn't overly expensive, but I admit that I have never paid that much before for a cake.

Steve
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:21 AM   #145
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I could barly bring myself to cut up the airstream....that was the greatest cake ever!
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:26 PM   #146
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Axle job accomplished

Tonight I installed a new Dexter axle on the Flying Cloud. Since the old axle an springs were removed, it was a fast process that took just over an hour.

I had purchased all everything needed for the job as a new part since many of the old parts were worn or damaged during removal.

First we bolted the springs back on the front side of the axle. After that we moved the axle under the trailer, and used two jacks to hold it in place while we bolted the other side of the springs in place on the new shackles.









The only real problem was with the U-bolts that I bought at the store that I purchased the axle at. The mounts on the original axle where it sat on top of the leaf springs was not very tall. The new Dexter axle's mount is an inch taller, and made it so that the U-bolts I had wouldn't work. I went to St. Louis Spring, and had a custom set of U-bolts fabricated for less than I paid for the ones at the store.

Original Mount


New mount

All said and done, the installation was fast, easy, and painless. Hope you all have the same experience.

Steve
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Old 06-04-2009, 04:21 PM   #147
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POR and Floor

Over the past few days I have been working as much on the Flying Cloud as my job allows. I am leaving for two weeks for Annual training, and wanted to cover the frame before I did. A few days ago I started painting with POR-15 at 0700. Many hours in the hot sun and humid air later I was finished. After top coating the front and back areas, I took a can of Rustoleum black on the rest of the chassis and running gear. This was advised by Davis Winick when I inquired if I needed to POR the springs and u bolts.



I was content with leaving it like this for the next two weeks while I am away for training.

Earlier today I got a call from my friend to see if I wanted to go to Lowes with him. I went along to get som escotchgard for water proofing my stuff at AT. When we got back he wanted to look at how the wood fit the frame. It turned into a cut and fitting fest with both curved end pieces being cut and fitted.


Front Floor


Rear Floor.

The only other pieces are straight cuts that will have to wait until I return from AT. Hopefully thosewill go fast, and I will find a shop that can get some aluminum channel made for me.

Steve
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:36 AM   #148
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I am in need of belly pan suggestions.

My local aluminum supplier has 5052H .032 sheets for $3.00 less per foot than Air Parts. I plan to use this same aluminum for the C channel unless it is ill advised. As for the belly pan itself I am trying to decide the best way to go. Do I use a short piece as a banana wrap and go from the C channel, cover the underside of the outrigger, and stop at the main frame rail, or do I use an entire sheet to span from one C channel to the next.

I see advantages to the first option as I can still work on things under the floor like tanks, plumbing, wiring, etc. On the other hand, having a full sheet across would use less rivets, and have less areas for water/insect/vermin infiltration.

Thoughts?

Steve
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:55 AM   #149
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I'm just in the middle of doing mine right now, like option 1.

I have basically .025" around the outriggers and I'll use '040" sheets for the large flat section running down the the centre, which one mine is nearly 5' wide on the chassis rails.

I don't know if it's a better option or not but like you mention I'll have really easy access if I need it and I think it makes handling material simpler too. Lots of rivets though.
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:19 AM   #150
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I just got my belly mat. also and am planning the 1st option like truck. It will be much easier to handle the forming of the edges using a smaller piece. I picked up 3003 .032 for.65/ft not as much shine but a lot cheaper for an area that does not show.
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:15 PM   #151
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Looking good. Keep up the great work!
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:58 PM   #152
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Righting the ship

It's obvious that I have not done any work on the trailer for quite awhile. I am not happy about it, but I have been either working, or using the Ambassador to actually camp and attend rally events. Once August hit, our rally and camping season picked up, and though bittersweet...the end is in sight.

Over the first weekend in October, I have a plan. The plan is to take the Flying cloud, and install the floor, C channel, belly pan, and replace the shell. Impossible to do myself, I have a fellowship of forum friends to assist in the process. This will be the first assistance I have received, and it is greatly appreciated.

Before the floor is installed, I have to install the wheel wells. The wheel wells in the cloud are 15 inches wide at the height of the curve, and 14 inches at the base. Basically this means they are tapered. When installing them, I need to know if the 15" edge or the 14" edge is flush with the edge of the frame/floor. If the 15" edge is flush to the frame/floor, then the 14" edge will be 1 inch inside from the edge of the frame/floor. If the 14" edge is flush to the edge of the floor/frame, then the 15" edge will be 1 inch outside the edge of the frame/floor.

Obviously these were contoured for the body to fit to when riveted in place, but I lost all of my pics on my laptop from the deconstruction.

I am also still in the air on 3003 and 5052 for the belly pan. I know 3003 will be easier to use, but I like the strength of .030 5052 better.

Who out there has installed new 50's wheel wells that are riveted to the skin, and which edge was mounted flush with the exterior floor edge?

Steve
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:20 AM   #153
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Wheel wells

My 1950 FC wheel wells were not tapered. I was suprised to here that yours were. The top of my wheel well is about an inch from the skin. Only the bottem edge is riveted to the skin.

When you talk about riveting the wheel well, are you saying that the rivets will be in an arch of the well?

You may just want to let the wheel wells float until the shell is on. There will be adjustments for alignments of the new wells. If you fasten the wells down first, and they do not match the skins then I can forsee the skin either indenting or bulging to match the wells when riveted.

Gene
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Old 09-28-2009, 01:18 PM   #154
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Hey Gene,

The wheel wells will be movable to a point and will only get attached with the screws once The shell is on, and skin is in place. I was just throwing it out in case others had the same experience as what I was about to go through.

Steve
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