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Old 03-24-2009, 04:15 PM   #127
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Isn't it great that you're finding out about the outriggers now ... instead of much later?

We're just now getting the rain but it hasn't really cut loose yet.

Hopefully, you and the Flying Cloud won't beat the rest of the rally to Branson in the strong winds (by way of Kansas as in "we're not in Kansas anymore, Toto").

Take care,
Nancy and Laird
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:02 PM   #128
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How not to repair your floor

After returning from ordering my axle this morning, I had little time before the rain was due to hit. I wanted to try and get some of the flooring removed from the frame. I decided the easiest parts to remove would be the repairs done by the last owner.

What was this guy thinking? They used four pieces in odd shapes to replace a small piece up front, and the curbside under the window. Every place that I found an elevator bolt that would connect the shell/floor/frame together, I found the wood notched out around the bolts. Gimme a break.


Curbside piece


Front Piece

So you may be wondering how these pieces other than being squeezed together would be sitting in place. They were all silicone caulked together, and screwed into a plywood spline underneath. What a great feat of engineering on the worker's behalf. I wonder if the guy who replaced it was living in it at a mobile home park since it had no holding tanks.



After this I grabbed my trusty circular saw, set the blade for a smidgen less than 5/8" and cut out the area from the center of the floor to the curbside step. Interestingly enough, the step is comprised of a 2x8 that is capped with a 2x4. I may change this depending on how I put the floor back in. I am hoping some other folks with the 50's interior drop down step can give me measurements of theirs.



The original owner must have been really short. Not only does this trailer have the drop down step, but it also had a pull out step installed underneath the drop down step. There isn't a a lot of distance between the interior step and the exterior step underneath. I will probably remove the step underneath, and install on of my stabilizer jacks in its' place (Now to install them before or after the belly pan is installed?).



After getting the thoughts from the folks on here (Which are the same as the forum members that answered my poll), I ordered my new axle today. I took the axle to three different shops, and all three told me the same thing. I didn't have a standard size drop on my axle, and a new drop axle would bring me even closer to the ground. I opted for the 6,000# straight axle so I could keep my 6 bolt pattern wheels, and the spare off the Ambassador. The axle will give me about two more inches of clearance, so the difference will not be as dramatic as originally thought. This will also give me a little more clearance for installing my holding tank. Unfortunately the axle won't be here until the 3rd when we will be in Branson for the Spring Rally. Looks like I'll be busy on the 6th!

Steve
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Old 03-27-2009, 04:02 PM   #129
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Yesterday I finished removing the rest of the old flooring. I am relieved to finally be done with that. The belly pan is still on the front half, but I will get that taken down within a day or so. The step from the post above also came down, and I am glad I removed it since it was installed very improperly.

The front section of floor was only being supported by the two main rails of the A-frame. Most vintage trailers I have seen have very small outriggers bearing at least some of the weight of the front area. Would there be any problem with adding some small outriggers off the A frame to support the floor?

My project today was working with the axle suspension components. My street side leaf springs have a spring clamp that is riveted on, but the bolt housing is badly rusted, and needs to be replaced. I called St. Louis Spring and Brake who don't do anything other than spring and brake fabrication for trailers. They said they could get me new ones, but I needed to bring my spring in.

Getting the spring off the trailer was quite a feat. I don't have a cuting torch, so a sawz-all would have to do. I proceeded to cutting the old "Zerk" bolts since they would not budge when trying a proper removal. Since spring's head guy was out today, I will be paying them a visit next week, but I did visit the distribution center for etrailer. I picked up new shackles, new nylon bushings, and new bolts to reinstall the springs once I get the spring clamps replaced. I opted for standard bolts instead of the bolts with a greese fitting. Besides that, I am using a nylon bushing opposed to a steel bushing like originally used. New U-bolts and plates will be purchased once my axle arrives next week.

Next onto tanks....and not the 12 Ton with big guns kind.

I have interest in a few tanks right now, and I'll go over them each right here.

This tank is a nice fit.

30 Gallons works nice considering the size of water tank we are installing. The only issue is the flange size. The flange on this tank is 3.25 inches. My cross members are 2 3/4 inches. Not going to work. I have thought about welding several tabs of 4 inch c channel to one of the cross members. This will fit the 3.25 inch flange, and the other end would be held into place with a piece of flat bar stock seen on the Annalumanum and Austin Aluminitis Overlanders. Price...$149.00

This tank would work as well.

It has less capacity than the previous tank. Since it is 27 inches wide, I would be required to replace bother crossmembers that it would fit between with 4 inch c channel. Price......$99.00

This next tank is the smallest tank I would consider.

Like both other tanks, the flange depth would require C channel tabs or a new 4 inch cross member to be installed. This tank is only 6 inshes tall, so it would be easier to conceal as well. Price unknown until Inca returns my call.

Steve
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Old 03-27-2009, 04:52 PM   #130
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Steve... I guess I don't understand by what you mean with the first tank having a 3.25" flange... by the drawing, it looks like the flange is 1.5 inches deep? Tank 2 has a 3" lip per the drawings... am I reading the drawings wrong?
Marc
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Old 03-27-2009, 05:14 PM   #131
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Mark,

The first tanks flange extends out from the main tank 1.5 inches. The flange itself is 3.25 inches tall. The second tank has the 3 inch tall lip.

Steve
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:41 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic View Post
The front section of floor was only being supported by the two main rails of the A-frame. Most vintage trailers I have seen have very small outriggers bearing at least some of the weight of the front area. Would there be any problem with adding some small outriggers off the A frame to support the floor?
With the shell off the floor is only supported by the underlying frame. With the shell on, the floor is also supported from above. Also, I think that in the assembled trailer the amount of weight in the area is not that concentrated. With a chair or bench the weight is spread out to the base of the seat. I think that one thing they do do is help keep the plywood level when the shell is off. This will help when putting the shell back on. You will find that with the trailer outside in the weather that the plywood will warp and bend with the moisture. Once you bolt everything down and get the shell back on this won't be an issue. I think you can get by without those out riggers if you don't want to spend the time and weight on them.
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Old 03-28-2009, 12:28 PM   #133
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Mark,

The first tanks flange extends out from the main tank 1.5 inches. The flange itself is 3.25 inches tall. The second tank has the 3 inch tall lip.

Steve
Can you use ABS cement on those tanks.
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Old 03-28-2009, 01:57 PM   #134
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Toastie,

They are polyethelene and use rubber grommets. The glue from ABS would damage the tanks. I think I will order the H664, and make a doted line of 4 inch C channel to hold one sie of the tank whileusing flat bar stock to hold the other side.

Steve
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:31 PM   #135
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I love the smell of welding in the morning

Long time no post. I have been so busy with running two businesses that I have hardly had time to do any blogging. Today I finally got some work done on the Flying Cloud.

There were several cross members and outriggers that needed to be replaced on the old frame, and today I had the welder/fabricator come out to do the work. The job took four hours and $300 cash, but I have a strong and reinforced frame that should last a lifetime after I paint it with POR-15. After the welder left I spent a few hours on my back grinding off old rivets and screws that once held the old belly pan on.







I had the welder fabricate the outriggers out of usable steel from the removed cross members. I had plenty of 3" channel from the new cross members, so the old ones were turned into outriggers.





I am looking forward to having time next week to getting the new axle installed, and getting the floor replaced. I need to find a local source for the metal I will use for C channel and the belly skin.

Steve
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:22 PM   #136
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Your frame looks great, Steve, and you're still ahead of me.

cheers,
steve
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:49 AM   #137
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After a flurry of activity, I finally got the Flying Cloud ready for Memorial Day.

What a (Sweet) Maiden Voyage.


Okay....so maybe I just had this replica 53 Flying Cloud cake made for our wedding anniversary instead. I thought the baker did a pretty good job.

Steve
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:37 PM   #138
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Oh man, you had me going there for a second. Your baker is to be commended. Did you supply some photos of yours for reference?

Brad
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:44 PM   #139
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Brad,

I did supply photos of my own, and the ever helpful Vintage Airstream Archive.

Great job ehh?

Steve
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:05 PM   #140
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Looks like the axle on it is good, too.

cheers,
steve
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