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Old 03-26-2008, 01:58 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner
Looks great! where did you get those jacks you used? Is the extension removed for stowing or does it pivot into the recess? Is that a circular recessed area for a spare tire that I see in on of the pictures?
I bought the jacks from a local RV dealer. They are the type typically found on pop-up trailers. Probably the same as Silverhobby describes. They use a bar to jack them. You realy only need to jack one notch. Their intent is to prevent rocking, not lift. They pivot up and are spring loaded to self store. I though about scissor jacks but they are very large when stored. I don't recall the exact size but I think around 28 inches long anf 6 inches tall. These store in a 14x4 inch area.

It is a round recessed area for a spare tire. You can see the framing in a previous post.
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:07 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverhobby
Steve, looks to me like the stabilizer jacks are from Atwood, part # 82301. Priced at $23.95 retail. They have a stabilizing load capacity of 1000 pounds and a lifting capacity of 650 pounds.
Thanks Kevin! That's the info I needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FC7039
They use a bar to jack them. You really only need to jack one notch. Their intent is to prevent rocking, not lift. They pivot up and are spring loaded to self store. I though about scissor jacks but they are very large when stored. I don't recall the exact size but I think around 28 inches long and 6 inches tall. These store in a 14x4 inch area.
Gene,
Thanks for the technical installation info. These look like a nice mid-way alternative between an expensive hydraulic system and the old screw jacks. Considering the current stage of my resto they would be easy to add.
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC7039
Is there a light weight alternative to plywood?
Gene,

Here is a product that is suitable and weighs about half that of plywood. It's got a urethane foam core and two fiberglass skins and is designed for the RV and Boating industries. It runs about $240 for a 3/4x4'x8' sheet. A member here, 65Streamer has looked into this and may have more information to offer if you are interested.
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Old 04-30-2008, 04:43 PM   #32
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I am considering this tankless hot water heater.

atmor.net

My question is does it use too much electricity? Would I be limited to use only when hooked up to shore power?
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Old 05-31-2008, 05:24 PM   #33
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progress?

I made some progress. I have been stuck on a way to get the shell over the frame for measuring for the final cut of the floor.

My drive is very short and with the added steel to the frame and the weight of the plywood, I can no longer move the trailer by hand. I did not think it wise to try to manuver the trailer back under the shell with it jacked way up. I would need to back it under, lower the shell, measure, raise the shell, pull it out, and repeat for the final setting. I am just not that lucky and would probably knock the shell off a pier and have it all come crashing down. See previous post of the shell floating.

My first attempt was to build a frame of steel that would span the trailer and the shell and hoist the shell over the trailer and back. I never realized just how flexible steel is. I tried to use 2 inch channel. Bought some welded some, bought some more to stiffen it, welded some more. With my sons help we tried to move it and it still flexed so much it twisted and crashed. Thank God it did not hit the shell or myseld or son. Anyone want to buy some steel channel?

Staring the the pile of wasted money I came up with the idea to use a couple pieces of channel as rails. I bought 4 castors and rolled the shell over the frame and back. Worked alright.

You can see the castors on the rail. Porgress in moving the shell. The shell on the castors on the floor. Excess floor that will be trimmed and a look into the shell as it sits on the floor.

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Old 07-13-2008, 03:34 PM   #34
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Body back on frame

I have moved the body back on the floor. I used the same method as before when I did a fit test of the floor (castors on a 2 steel channel rail). I have cut the floor to what I hope is the final shape. I also liberated the hidden panel. I suspect the trailer was damaged along the bottom. Who ever repaired it just cut out the damage and placed a sheet of aluminum on top. You can see where the original lights were. Removing the side panel also let me slide the body over the floor with the wheel wells in place.

I have with much trial and error, more of the latter, formed a front belly pan. I tried to cut and bend and persuade with only so much luck. I was under the gun to get something done as my neighbor is getting a new fence and I needed to move the body away from her fence, and dang, I just need to make progress. Well the belly is not as good as I would have hoped but I will have to live with it. People should not be looking under there anyways.

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My little trick for sizing pictures is to right click on them and choose 'send to' 'mail recipient', then choose to make the pictures smaller. When the mail page pops up, save the picture and cancel the mail.
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:58 PM   #35
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Updates

Looking at the date of the previous post, all I can say is, (pardon) damn time flies.

I have it all back together. Insulated. Basic wiring done (wires to stratigic places)

Ceiling going back in. Or. Trailer ingesting itself. Can you find the UTEE homage?

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The insulation is based on others doings. It is "instert big word here" foam board. I scored it every couple inches on the non foil side so that it would conform the the skin. I cut wiring runs with conduit. I then put in a layer of bubble foil.

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Old 02-24-2010, 06:55 PM   #36
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The 1950 Flying Cloud is so so Cool.
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:07 PM   #37
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Title

I have finally gotten the title transfered, 3/12 years after I bought it. I shoud have done this first thing before I started demo. It has taken me that long to get it road worthy and able to pass inspection.

I needed a "green sheet" a.k.a out of state VIN verification. No auto inspection place would do it, though by license of the state they are supposed to be able. I found McClain's in McKinney would do the VIN verification but they also wanted to inspect it. This mostly comprised a walk around, and verification the lights worked and I had insurance on the tow vehicle. In Texas if the weight is over 4500 then you need brakes and an annual inspection.

I also needed to get a weight. The trailer, which has nothing on the inside (except walls), weighed 1860 lbs. My Toyota Tundra double cab (2005) weighed 4940.

I also registered my license plate. This was a tip from a fellow forum user from eBay. I refinished the plate with a little help from some Bondo to fill in the what was rusted away.

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Old 03-18-2010, 08:27 PM   #38
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She looks INCREDIBLE!!! Wow!
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:47 PM   #39
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Very beautiful cloud. Nice job on the frame. Any progress lately?
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:07 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Very beautiful cloud. Nice job on the frame. Any progress lately?
I have made progess but not a lot. I do not have any pictures.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:41 PM   #41
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Five years of rehab

It has been five years since I bought the trailer. After rehabilitating the ravages of time (wish we humans could do the same), the trailer is up and out on the road.

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Old 12-12-2011, 07:33 PM   #42
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Awesome,JUST awesome.
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