Visit our Popular Forums

BarryIowa · 09-21-2009, 09:49 AM

The first picture is from June 12 just before bringing her home as a reminder of the progress made since that time. Saturday and Sunday I rebuilt two windows: the rear window and the shower window. In both cases, I took window out, either burnished or polished, installed new glass and seal using new screws and nuts from VTS. I also removed the eyebrows, used a hammer and dolly to work out the dents, used silver Parabond from VTS to sick into the seams and Vulkem under the eyebrow before reinstalling. I still need to shave the rivets. I now have no broken glass in my 55 Cloud.

InsideOut · 09-21-2009, 10:00 AM

Good job! I know what a big project that can be...no more leaky windows are a good thing! Did you re-do the screens too? That project is a huge PITA!

Shari

BarryIowa · 09-21-2009, 10:08 AM

Hi Shari, I have the galvanized screen from VTS and will do that when I remove the lower interior panels. At that time and with the use of the offset roller, I have been assured that it can be done without completely removing the entire window frame from the trailer. I also have new window seals for the exterior that I plan on replacing but it is getting a bit late in the season and have to make sure what ever projects I start, I can finish. The good news is that I won't have to redo any of the work that I have just completed - just add to it.

flyrc · 09-21-2009, 11:07 PM

I just brought home a 56 Flying Cloud an couldn't believe that someone had put screws at the bottom corners of all the side windows. My buddy Scott Goranson advised me to do the same thing, fill the holes with rivets. As soon as I get organized, I'll start posting my photos and progress reports

BarryIowa · 09-22-2009, 06:19 AM

Yeah, it is pretty well documented that the windows from the 50's look great, but they don't seal very well and I'm sure that prompted many people to screw them shut.

BarryIowa · 09-22-2009, 08:20 AM

You can't see it in the photos but the small window does not seal tight. It is cranked completely shut and the right side of the window is still about 1/2 away from the seal. I have new seals and have not installed them yet but I have placed it next to the window and it appears that it will still not seal. My gut feeling is that the crank has worn. Any thoughts and are these crank readily available? I do not think VTS has these. The tiny windows in the front have replacement cranks available at VTS.

pbearsailor · 09-22-2009, 08:47 AM

Mystery to me too, Barry. I've got the same thing on my three small windows, like they hit a hard stop about a half inch from closing. I've tried both the new closers from Steve and also my old ones and they work exactly the same way.

I know they closed tight before, but they all had broken glass or no glass. I'm working on other stuff right now, so I've sorta pushed this issue to the back burner.

Looking really good. Isn't it a great feeling to get all that glass replaced?

cheers,
steve

BarryIowa · 09-22-2009, 08:55 AM

Thanks for the input Steve, and confirming what must be a fairly common problem. I guess as long as it isn't blowing or storming really badly, if they leak a little the way they are designed, the water will just run right out of the trailer. Getting this issue resolved isn't a super high priority. I just got my new Marinco 110 exterior electrical plug so that is the next project. I would like to get that installed, throw in a chunk of carpet and clean so I can talk my wife going to the 50th anniversary of the Iowa Unit of the WBCCI in Altoona, Iowa, on October 8 - 11. I would like to have it available for people to see and hopefully I can meet and befriend some other vintage owners. Then, it is time to start gutting the interior so new floors can be installed!

bwoodtx · 09-22-2009, 09:12 AM

what a great find. looks in better shape than my '73 overlander i drug out from under an oak tree. enjoy your treasure!!

bruce

BarryIowa · 09-22-2009, 10:27 AM

Thanks Bruce. Enjoy your Overlander as well. Have you started to post any updates or restoration projects? If you have, I would certainly enjoy taking a look! You lucky dog! You have a newer AS to enjoy while you're working on the 73. I, on the other hand, have a pop up. The nice thing is that the having to use a pop up will serve as motivation to get my 55 Cloud finished!!!

InsideOut · 09-22-2009, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryIowa

I have the galvanized screen from VTS and will do that when I remove the lower interior panels. At that time and with the use of the offset roller, I have been assured that it can be done without completely removing the entire window frame from the trailer.

Love to hear how that goes...are you removing all the panels or just the lower ones?

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryIowa

I also have new window seals for the exterior that I plan on replacing but it is getting a bit late in the season and have to make sure what ever projects I start, I can finish. The good news is that I won't have to redo any of the work that I have just completed - just add to it.

What kind of seals are you going with? The original seals go between the frame & skin...are you using something else?

Please post pics...I'd love to know how to replace the screens/seals without removing the windows for the next time we have to do it ~

Shari

BarryIowa · 09-22-2009, 02:32 PM

Hi Shari,
I will be sure to post some pictures when I get to this step. As far as the exterior seals, the rivets have to be drilled out and the new seals (from VTS) are slid into place and re-riveted. The interior frames will be removed when the lower aluminum panels are removed for floor replacement. This should give me the proper angle to replace the window screens - I hope.

InsideOut · 09-22-2009, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryIowa

As far as the exterior seals, the rivets have to be drilled out and the new seals (from VTS) are slid into place and re-riveted.

Okay, that's what we did. Just while it was un-riveted for the gaskets, we took the whole thing off to clean the old rotted gasket out - it didn't just pull out, it was stuck to both the frame & skin with 50+yo "gook". A real mess...

It's that ol' slippery slope..."while we're at it, we might as well..." That's when we decided to pull the whole window (which, by the time you have removed all the exterior rivets for the gasket replacement, is no big deal) and replaced the screens - it seemed easier than doing gymnastics around the ribs/frame on the inside when we could get a straight shot at the screens on a workbench.

Your results may vary ~ I'll stay tuned.

Shari

BarryIowa · 09-23-2009, 12:04 PM

I'm more than half way down that slippery slope most of the time!!

BarryIowa · 09-24-2009, 07:43 AM

I'm installing a new Marinco power inlet. I'll take pictures for anyone interested.

flyfshr · 09-24-2009, 08:00 AM

Yes, pictures please. One day, I'll need to do this too so having a road map is always a good thing.

Brad
FF

BarryIowa · 09-24-2009, 08:09 AM

Will do. Kind of a spendy project at $90 for the adapter and $75 for the cord but "safety first."

Jabba · 09-24-2009, 09:39 AM

Late finding this thread, nice find!

Are you upgrading your electrical while at it? Please post pictures, I need to replace ours too at some point.

BarryIowa · 09-24-2009, 09:45 AM

Hi Jablonski's,
I am taking one last camping trip before gutting the interior so for now, I am just replacing the power inlet. After I remove the lower interior panels for floor replacement, I will upgrade the electrical.

Silverhobby · 09-24-2009, 09:53 AM

Barry, I am just catching up on this thread. Looks like you are making very good progress. I have all these hurdles ahead of me as I begin to restore a 1956 Overlander twin. Thanks for the pictures,videos, and motivation.