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Old 12-11-2005, 01:41 AM   #15
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like the plan....

but with children, can anyone who uses that type of heater chime in if it's surface gets hot? I'd be afraid of grilling the little ones if they touch it (or anyone else trying to get things out of the fridge).
Marc
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Old 12-11-2005, 02:38 AM   #16
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Chime time ...

Ding ... dong... Heater! This vertical Day & Night tubular Panelray heater works by radiation from the center tube, which gets very hot to radiate successfully. There are five thin vertical rods around its open front half, but little hands can easily get through the 1-5/8" space between the rods to burn tiny fingers reaching for the warm red center core. OTOH, if you have successfully trained your children not to put their hands and fingers (or other body parts) on the stove top when it is being used to cook food, then that lesson should be transferable to the vertical heater. Somehow children of the late 40's and early 50's survived Airstreams without all becoming small fry.

One drawback of the heater is the 1' circular footprint (tubeprint?) it takes up from the floor to ceiling. This stand alone heater was phased out during the early 1950's in favor of a similar but flatter inset wall mounted unit that took up no floor space and freed up some valuable trailer real estate. You could gain a lot of closet storage space by using a modern short wall mounted heater instead of this tall tubular one.

I like the Olympic brand catalytic heaters myself, as they also radiate and eventually convect heat. Mine is mounted to the left inside the door on the vertical face of the galley counter end, where it radiates warmth on me when I'm sitting opposite in my front dinette. Catalytics are very (99%) fuel efficient, but I always open two vents slightly to keep fresh air circulating.

The vertical Day and Night heater is reported to be quite effective if not particularly efficient. The outside cover rotates so the radiation can be directed, a feature that will not be particularly effective from the cove in which you have placed this heater. It's a great vintage touch, but I think you could find a more space and fuel efficient heater to use in your trailer.
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Old 12-11-2005, 10:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 65GT
There's another topic here somewhere on fridge vents and I think the consensus was as straight up as possible and directly in-line. The more you make bends the more you slow down the natural flow and the warmer your fridge runs. I hope that helps...
You know . . . that's a good point. Those ammonia fridges aren't the most effective to begin with. I can see how keeing the best air flow past the combustion area would be important to keep them operating at their peak efficiency. I'll have to remember this if I ever get brave enough to tackle a "get and redo" project.
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Old 12-11-2005, 11:30 PM   #18
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I guess I should read up (search topic in forum) on refrigerators, I don't even know what an ammonia fridge is? I think I want a Norcold N400 (new) (I like the size), is that an ammonia fridge? The other thought is to turn the window above the fridge into a vent . . . or better yet to move the window to the bathroom (flipping the bath and the fridge would put a "tall" wall at the door which I don't want).

Still am interested in hearing from someone who actually uses the floor to ceiling "panelray" heater. We probably won't need it much - up in the air on that one.

Thanks all for "chiming in", I'm "loose" at this point, not committed or "married" to any scheme yet, so I'm interested in any input I can get.
Mark
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Old 12-12-2005, 06:07 AM   #19
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Here I go regurgitating what I have heard but do not totally understand either. RV refrigerators are an "absorption type" (i.e. no compressor) which use some type of ammonia as the "coolant", where a household fridge instead has a compressor and uses a chlorofluorocarbon "coolant" (e.g. Freon).
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:12 AM   #20
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Thanks for all comments, they have been very helpful.
This is "Scheme E", sort of giving up on the 3 sleeping areas, although there's a possibility for a bunk above back bed...
sorry to chime in late as well. i really like "E". it's nice to see a more organic flow to the furniture, beyond just rounded corners. i think i'll revisit my plan this week. are you planning on putting in a tv? i am thinking about layout on the front of my trailer as more of a living room, with an added table for eating, rather than a permanent table, to maximize floorspace. i guess with a permanent table area, you always have a place to play cards, bored games, etc... there's no right or wrong, i guess. ha!

how much space are you allowing for your toilet? i am going to have to go with a wet bath in the corner. i was thinking about having the seat part you sit on double as the toilet, but haven't thought too much more about that beyond the concept.

also, on the topic of venting for the bath, etc, i'll attach a pic of my trailer when i was taking everything apart. the vent for the waste tank was along the side of the wall, but inside, there's a curved plastic pipe that runs up to the top (to be concealed inside a cabinet), then bends to straight up, and through the roof. (that's the little black piece in the middle of the pic. i know it's kinda hard to make out.) i don't know if all the trailers had this kind of arangement. are you planning on addding a grey water tank? i have mounted a 27 gallon tank that was initially going to be a grey water, with the black above floor under the toilet, but sometimes wonder if it's worth all the effort to have 2 tanks in a 15 foot shell.
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Old 09-24-2006, 11:02 AM   #21
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Panelray heater

here is a good link on the heater in your trailer. I'm currently restoring one also for a 1949 Vagabond Model 19.

Mike

http://vintageairstream.com/rr_topics_PRheater.html
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Old 09-24-2006, 08:35 PM   #22
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Thanks Mike.
I still have that on my list of things to do.
I think the one I have is in pretty good shape but I've never had it hooked up so we shall see. Great link/info.
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:07 AM   #23
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All your floorplans look nice (not sure which one I prefer) and are very detailed, but I've made one small observation. In all cases you have placed your plumbing vents against an outside wall. This will cause them to be low on the side of the trailer where they poke thru the roof. If you look at where Airstream typically put them, the are more inboard so that the vents end up higher on the roof.
My '72 G.T. has the vents going up the exterior walls to the roof.
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