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Old 07-28-2013, 02:03 AM   #57
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BARRY!!! looks great!! Wow...you got the shell back on!! Love the progress. We're about a day away of dropping the shell back on ours! Been on vacation, then busy at work, then on vacation again, so haven't checked the forum in a while. I'm blown away by your progress!! Did you get the sheet metal that you ordered? Can't wait to see the permanent rivets holding the shell down to the frame. Keep up the great work!!!

Lee
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:32 AM   #58
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Saline , Michigan
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No work on Spoon for quite a while. We've been taping out different floor plans to get an idea of how we want to finish her, but that's about it. The metal is coming from Washington state Weds, so next thing to do is to pick up a rivet gun and bucking bar to start practicing with as we will be doing quit a bit of skin replacing. It's slow here, been hot, and a couple short vacs. and still working through polishing the 66 Safari. Good luck on your shell replacement. One hint I might give you, which was a bit of a surprise when putting the body back on, watch your ends, I had to 'jack up the front and rear a bit to get the right fit for the body, that and watch it doesn't get 'cock-eyed' on you. Good luck, need pics.
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:59 AM   #59
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Not abandoned or forgotten, just life gets in the way. Happy Holiday all!!
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:33 AM   #60
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Hey Barry,

Looking good in the snow. You get the floor plan figured out yet? Been pretty slow on our '52 lately....cold outside and busy time of year. I'll be off for a couple weeks over Christmas time, hoping to get down to the shop and do some more riveting.

Best wishes and happy Holidays!

Lee
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:59 AM   #61
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We have pretty much got a floor plan but it is subject to change Our biggest concern is where we will put the Natures head. Until it comes and we can actually put it where we hope it goes and see that it will work there, we are stalled.

One other major issue. On our 66 Safari there is a center support that runs the length of the trailer, the 54 does not have that ( see earlier pics) Because of this the floors seems to "flex" as you step on the unsupported area between the cross members. It really bothers me, so I am going to run a second layer of 3/8" floor down, to stiffen it.

BTW to answer your question of a couple months ago...yes we have all the metal to redo the sides.. .040 for the sides and .032 for the ends. Need to get a rivet gun and bucking bar to practice so we'll be ready come spring time.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:04 PM   #62
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I'm in the same boat with my '51--my floor is going in I'm afraid it's going to have the same flexing issue. Probably going to add some wood bracing under the center sections.
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:34 AM   #63
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If you don't have tanks it would be no problem welding in a center end to end angle brace to stiffen it up. My problem is I have tanks that come up to the floor so all I can do is add more flooring in hopes of 'tighting' it up.
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:09 PM   #64
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[QUOTE=I am going to run a second layer of 3/8" floor down, to stiffen it. .[/QUOTE]
A sheet of 3/8 ply weighs ~30 lbs. though stiffer, heavier
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:29 PM   #65
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Yes but what other options do I have?
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:07 PM   #66
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I'm with you--worth an extra 120# for a flex-free floor IMO.
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:35 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
Yes but what other options do I have?
If you are going with linoleum then another layer would be ok. If you are thinking about laminate then I would not. Keep in mind that you really only walk on the middle two feet of the floor for the most part. My free advice
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:57 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by goshawks00 View Post
We have pretty much got a floor plan but it is subject to change Our biggest concern is where we will put the Natures head. Until it comes and we can actually put it where we hope it goes and see that it will work there, we are stalled.

One other major issue. On our 66 Safari there is a center support that runs the length of the trailer, the 54 does not have that ( see earlier pics) Because of this the floors seems to "flex" as you step on the unsupported area between the cross members. It really bothers me, so I am going to run a second layer of 3/8" floor down, to stiffen it.

BTW to answer your question of a couple months ago...yes we have all the metal to redo the sides.. .040 for the sides and .032 for the ends. Need to get a rivet gun and bucking bar to practice so we'll be ready come spring time.
Hi Barry,
Hope your potty gets delivered soon so you can figure out your floor plan! Did you replace your floor with 5/8" plywood? I used 3/4" on mine and it feels real stiff everywhere. Adding more to the top might be your only option at this point. You could probably even go with 1/8" or 1/4" and as long as you glued it down with some good hardening adhesive with full coverage, it would stiffen it up considerably. If you used something soft like silicone and only laid down some pattern of beads, you probably wouldn't get much stiffening out of it....the two sheets would act like a leaf spring.

Your comment about riveting puzzles me....you put the shell back on, so did you not actually rivet it yet?? Now that you mention it, I kind of remember you using screws to temporarily hold it on until you did rivet it. Riveting is pretty fun actually. I'm getting pretty good at it. I've ended up using the 5/32" wing nut clecos (KWN Wing-Nut Draw Cleco 5/32" (0-1/2") New) quit a bit because I'm needing to really squeeze together my stack-up of sheets. The wing nut clecos can really pull things together much more than just the spring loaded clecos. In my case, I have the outer skin, belly pan, and inner channel (and sometimes a doubler) to pull together. The belly pan is just folded up there, so there's plenty of gap to pull out prior to drilling and riveting. The rivet kit (3X rivet gun) from vintage trailer supply is working nicely. That would be fun if we lived closer to lend each other a hand now and then! Keep us posted!

Lee
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:26 PM   #69
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Yes Lee it will be 3/8" overlay now, but we are on hold...just to cold. After 3 days of continual powdery snow I shoveled through 13" of drifted snow to check on Spoon's wellness There are three drifts inside her where snow has filtered in from the vent on her top, one window that WAS taped shut, and the entry door that is less than a tight fit. Being the floor is sealed well, and the said vent is snow covered I will leave it for now, though I will screw the window shut with wire wrapped around a stick for tightness. The door-well not much I can do for it now but I real am not worried about the snow , I can broom it out. BTW they are calling for another 8-12" this weekend, plus -minus temps( a balmy -4 out as I type).
I am well aware of the screw down clecos having used them periodically on hotrods over the years they work but I don't see them as being necessary (I hope) and they really can slow you down. What rivets are you using?
For now I am in shut down mode on the Spoon , but am plenty business on Silvadilla (our 66 Safari) which is in the car barn.
Happy New Year,
Barry
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:44 AM   #70
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Holy Cow....you guys are getting beat up weather-wise!! Bet it's beautiful back there....we were hoping for a white Christmas, but didn't get it. Same ol' rain out here. Yes, the draw clecos slow things down a bit, but small price to pay for getting the stack-up really tight! Good to hear yours will fit up nice. I used the 1/8" channel all around the perimeter, so mine really needed to fit up good. I've been using the 5/32" rivets with the 1/8" brazier head from Vintage trailer supply (Solid Buck Rivets) .... if you get a couple packs of each length, then you're about ready for any stack-up. VTS has been pretty good to deal with. I also recently bought a set of stainless steel hinges for the door (Airstream Door Hinges) ($200 was a bit hard to swallow, but they do look nice and my originals were really shot). We'll see how these work out in the next few weeks...hopefully :-)
Good luck with the weather! Keep up the good work!

Lee
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