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Old 05-07-2013, 12:24 PM   #29
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1966 22' Safari
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Saline , Michigan
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Floor plan ... kind of... Must have a small queen in the back with the placement where either can get out without climbing over the other. Thinking possible stand alone shower, still working that out.... 2 burner cook top/micro wave/ single bigger sink.
I ordered the Atwood coupler like yours, looking at the current setup it makes me wonder if they were "factory" that way, as mine looks exactly like your description!!
BTW the frame on my '54 is 3" not 4"
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:15 PM   #30
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renton , seattle area
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Hey Barry, Wow....awesome progress you're making!!! Everything you're doing looks neat and clean! I'm jealous of how straight and relatively corrosion free your frame and body look! You mentioned that you didn't have a good template for the corner radii of the floor. I took the advice on the forum here and cut my radii to precisely 22". I accurately maintained the original 85" width and overall length. I then measured around the perimeter of the floor and the rivet line on the body and the body measurement was 1/2" longer. I think the measurements were 47'5" and 47'5.5". This gave me a little more confidence that the shell was going to fit on the big day! If the floor perimeter was longer, then I would've trimmed the radii a little bigger until the perimeter measurement was less than the shell perimeter (if that makes sense). Regardless, you should make these measurements as a sanity check. It would be much easier to trim the floor now rather than after trying to set the shell on (right Tim :-) ?). Anyway, I can post a picture of my floor measurements if it would be any help, but yours being a couple years newer would probably be different anyway. Keep up the great progress! I can't wait to see your flying cloud behind the Woodie!

Lee
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:37 PM   #31
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Thanks Lee-I do have the front wood floor radius, which matches the rear exactly so I'm good there. I like your idea about measuring the radius of the body at the rivet line to compare and will do that tomorrow. I have the plates made for the new axle (torsion), picked up some 1" sq. tubing to weld to the frame so it will help in making the belly pan a good transition with the 4'; grey tanks and will start welding them in tomorrow, been to windy the last few days. The wife and I flipped the frame today so we are now belly up. I also got the new tongue welded in. I need to call about the fender wells soon and also figure out what I'll use for a floor. Probably 3/4" plywood epoxy sealed.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:40 PM   #32
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Havent had time to check in for a few days, I've been dropping the shell back on my 55fc. As others have told you and you have apparently found out too, the curves in this series are all the same. Mine is 90" wide with 22" radius curves but yours may be slightly different. After a winters worth of being terrified that I measured something wrong I came home from Albuquerque with enough confidence to tackle it and in 4 hours the floor was in and the shell was back on! Not bad for an old man working alone. Did you plan on adding front and rear support plates?I found them quite easy to fab and they give a little more security to the shell attachment. Something to think about...
tim
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:57 PM   #33
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Hi Barry,

Not sure if you caught what I was saying. Try measuring the perimeter of the floor and shell. The length all the way around the floor must be smaller than the length all the way around the body at the interface..... mine measured approximately 47 feet and 5 inches....

Boxing the frame makes a lot of sense especially in the vicinity of the axle if you're going with a torsion set-up. Those put a single (and therefore higher) point load into the frame than staying with the leaf spring set-up that distributes the load into 2 points at each end of the spring. The torsion system is supposed to be a lot smoother ride since less un-sprung weight....and I believe it.

I used standard ACX 3/4" plywood and spent the ~$130 on the west marine 2 part epoxy sealer. Put on two thick coats.....hope it holds up!

I'm about to order belly pan material to the tune of $300. I'm kind of nervous about the belly pan install..... Wish I had some good directions to go by :-)

Keep it up!

Lee
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:12 PM   #34
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Finally got the 1" sq. tubing welded in, along with some transition angle iron to help the belly pan form and wrap to the frame, then two coats of POR-15. I picked up the new wheel wells and am quite pleased with the results for $100, worth the time to get them made. Today I got the plywood for the floor and will be using 5/8" five ply which is what the original floor was. I have it cut to width (85") and stored in the garage as it is supposed to rain later. After that we flipped the frame right side up and will begin laying out the floor probably tomorrow. Next on the agenda besides sealing the wood, is to order the fresh water and grey water tanks , probably from VTS, and hopefully picking the axle up real soon.
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:29 PM   #35
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It's supposed to rain here today but took the chance and brought the wood out of the garage and fit it to the frame. Everything fit well so we are on to sealing the wood before final install...
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:31 PM   #36
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that looks great! new floor, new wheel wells, hold down plate. You are doing everything right. No corners skipped here! Keep it up and you will have every right to be proud of your work
tim
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:07 PM   #37
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Thanks, I hear folks talk about rear hold down plates but our Cloud has a rear hatch so I guess there wasn't a rear hold down plate there. I did get two coats of sealer on the one side of the wood but rain is slowing me down. Luckily I have a garage I can paint in so they are all on saw horses getting their licks. I was able to talk to Steve at VTS today and ordered three new tanks, got a great deal from him, just hoping to get them quickly. No word on the axle yet though. Next is finding an umbilical cord and figure out what material for the belly pan and the under the frame tire rack box.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #38
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Unless you plan on polishing the belly pan you dont need 2024, try 5052 instead. About half the price and it should be available locally from any HVAC shop or metal supplier pretty reasonably
tim
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:58 PM   #39
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I wonder what the interior aluminum is made of. I will be doing a birch/maple interior so I have all the interior panels /ceiling sheets just rolled up in the barn.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:21 AM   #40
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You should polish your belly pan. It is like wearing clean underwear in case of an accident, in case your roll your trailer
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:50 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrunner View Post
Unless you plan on polishing the belly pan you dont need 2024, try 5052 instead. About half the price and it should be available locally from any HVAC shop or metal supplier pretty reasonably
tim
Yeah...just ordered belly pan material for mine. Should be ready to pick up tomorrow. I ordered 0.032 thick 5052-H32. At the place I'm getting mine, it costs $57.41 per 4x8 sheet. I'm going with a little different layout than the original. I ordered 2@ 4x8, 2@ 4x8.5, and 2@ 4x4.5 for a total cost of about $300 (with tax it was $330). I didn't order any extra, so I can't afford multiple attempts at the front and rear contoured pans!!

Looking great Barry!! wow it looks familiar . At this pace, you'll beat me to the finish line!!

Lee
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:55 PM   #42
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Hi Barry, here's the picture of my belly-pan layout....comments welcome :-)

what a crappy forum for posting pictures..... can't get it to upload....

I'll have to try again later....
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