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Old 04-18-2013, 04:37 PM   #15
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Thanks goshawks00 for the closeups. I think if I can find something similar in stainless to rivet on I just might try this. It would be very nice not to have to completely remove and reinstall for short moves and much easier to secure in windy conditions.
tim
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Old 04-18-2013, 04:50 PM   #16
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Saline , Michigan
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I'm still curious how it works... Maybe it's for a cover that buckles or clips on to the buckles to hold the awning up/ Any ideas?
Barry
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #17
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simplest solution would be to just roll up the awning and use either short straps with a hook at each end, or alternately a longer strap fed through the loops. Either one would utilize a simple cinch buckle to tighten. Simple and secure.
tim
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:35 PM   #18
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1966 22' Safari
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Saline , Michigan
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So the interior is finally gutted... it's 38* out and I just finished taking down the two end caps. We are going to put in a wood panel interior, but need to do some wiring there first then decide whether to put the caps up and attach the 1/8" veneer to it, or install it w/o the end caps. Ideas?
We are still up in the air whether to put in bird's eye maple, to match the wood on the Ford 51 woodie, or go with the Baltic birch. I like both. Anyway we are way down the road before either happen. Things will begin to slow down now as it's about time for baby birds.

One thing that was funny, as I was working on the last cap rivets in the rear, the wife came in and walked back to see what I was doing... Suddenly the trailer did a wheelie and grounded out on the back bumper, was real glad I had blocked the wheels as she was ready to roll down the hill. Luckily when we moved foreword it came back down on the tongue jack without issues. Whew!!
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:24 PM   #19
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
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Stored the end caps in the grainery for now and worked on taking the floor out. Didn't take long and it's all out now except the front end piece. I made a quick pattern to check the front shape with the rear ...Luckily they are both the same. With that bit of info I left some of the front floor attached but took enough out that I could pull out the insulation and clean it up. Once the body comes off I will make duplicates from the existing front floor to match both ends.
The frame is in surprisingly good shape... I'll have to replace a couple of pieces and stiffen several others but all in all I'm happy with their condition.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:04 AM   #20
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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I did the same Wheelie in my driveway while doing the demo on my 55FC. A 5 gallon plastic bucket under the rear bumper fixed the issue.
I also found that the curves, while not exactly the same, were so close that when I recut I averaged them out to a 22" radius for perfect symmetry (made my OCD wife very happy). Note also on my 55 the front cuts are perpendicular while the rear are angled to match the slope of the stern, 107 degrees IIRC, so remember to add an appropriate amount of length there. I also took the time to add stainless steel hold down plates since it is easy now-much harder later.
I was really amazed at how light and balanced these trailers are when empty.Quite easy to lift the tongue and roll it around the yard solo.
tim
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:25 PM   #21
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I finally got the wheel wells off. One is toast, one 'could' be used. I'll have to do some looking around to see if I can find anyone that can make new ones. I also started the long drawn out affair of drilling out the rivets to remove the body. It will be a lot easier to weld on the frame and clean up the suspenion with the body off.
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:48 PM   #22
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All the bracing is in for removing the shell. The next couple of days will be drilling out rivets and final perp for removal. Hopefully this weekend I can get our sons over and we can take the body off. If all goes well, I will put small dolly type wheels onto the framing which will allow me to then push/roll the body into our garage.... I hope!!
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:39 PM   #23
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It was a nice day today so the wife and I decided to pulled the shell off . We stacked some cider blocks up ran a few 2x4's under it and jacked away. In no time it was lifted!!! We added wheels to the 2x4's, so once we lowered the shell down we can roll it around and into the garage when needed...
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:51 PM   #24
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Rained all day Sunday so no work ... Today I was able to get the belly pan off and start to clean up the frame. It looks like I'll need to replace two, maybe three cross members and 4 outriggers. Went in to town and ordered the material to replace these pieces and also 20' of 1/8" x 3" plate to box the stress places on the frame(fore and aft of the axles), they will be ready to pick up tomorrow.
The piece of wood from the front floor, which I saved, was cleaned off and test fitted to see if it matched the rear profile also... After sitting it on the rear belly pan section, I can say for sure the front and rear radius on 'THIS' 54 Flying Cloud are exactly the same, I was worried as I didn't have a rear wood pattern. BTW the floor is 85"
A side window was missing when we bought the trailer and I have searched high and low for a replacement, to know avail. We finally did find one the was 4" taller and and 6" longer , so the plan is to cut it down in height,then reweld the frame and stay with the wider length. Today the frame was removed but more on that when we get a bit farther.
Now then I am asking for some opinions please.... We will be adding both a grey tank and a black tank to "Spoon" and have a dilemma. I have measured from the bottom of the floor to the bottom of the current axle and have 7 1/2 " so in theory I could add 7" tanks and have no clearance issue right?
We don't need a huge amount of gray or black capacity and I like the idea of not needing to add a straight axle to gain height just so I can put in bigger tanks. Opinions ?
Thanks
Barry
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #25
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Today was a busy day... I cut and welded in two stringers and four outriggers, then wire wheeled the frame. Took a bit of time and ran in to town for a couple qts. of POR-15... and painted the whole frame. Once that was dry ( got up to 81 here today!!) I braced up the frame and popped the axle/springs /shackles /shock loose. I still need to figure out a plan for the black/grey and fresh water tanks so things will be grinding to halt until that takes place.... Tomorrow I'll do some boxing in of the frame on whet I think are stress points.
Found a guy in town an, HVAC tech, that is making new wheel wells for $100.00 wohooo!!!
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:38 AM   #26
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Remember that the shell is sloped/curved where it rivets to the wheel wells. Use your old wells as templates or you will be remaking them. been there! Also, if you make the flanges along the bottom edge wider so they can easily overlap the nearest frame member installation and sealing is much easier.
tim
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:53 AM   #27
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
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Thanks Tim... when I took the wheel wells in to the HVAC guy we went over the profile of them and I made sure he knew about there was was a width difference. I moved the frame up closer to the house and onto the pavement... wow was that full use of the 'art' of hillbilly engineering! Starting to box the frame and will be talking to Colin today about a new axle.. Will be going with a torsion , but try to maintain the original height. Other important mods will be a 'Natures Head' comode, and a bigger grey tank now that there will be more room. Where are you at with your FC ?
Thanks
Barry
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:06 AM   #28
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Wow Barry you are moving right along.Do take some time here for systems planning, particularly tanks. VTS has a nice gray water tank which fits in the 4 inch frame height but you may have to adjust cross member spacing. Do you have a floor plan yet? that will help decide pan placement and type ie. in frame vs above floor. Your preferred camping style will determine size. Boondocking requires a much greater carrying capacity. Do your planning and research now. there are dozens of build threads for 50's and early 60's models with the same requirements which will answer the questions you have.
I am just back from the awesome restoration academy in Albuquerque and waiting impatiently for the rains to stop so I can drop my shell back on and get on with the building. At the rate you are going you will probably pass me soon.
tim
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