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Old 03-29-2013, 08:08 PM   #71
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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Wow! I was good in math but that is way too complicated for me or the assembly line. I just cut the floor oversized, set the shell on the new floor and drew a line. The floor was still oversized because of the angle that the shell overlaps the U channel. It too tight and I was never going to get the belly skin to fit so I had to trim around the perimeter again, re-install the U channel and then lower the shell onto the floor. I had to do this twice. If you can, I highly recommend flipping the chassis and floor with the U channel before you install the shell after you know it will fit. Put the belly skin on while the chassis is upside down. Gravity and standing upright will make it easier and it will turn out much nicer.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:05 AM   #72
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Okay....thanks JT. Since the shell is relatively flexible, I wanted the floor shape to be right-on, then let the shell conform to it. Don't get me wrong, I'm still as nervous as hell about it fitting, but by my estimates, I think it will slip down on there. Part of the 0.080 gap will be taken up by the belly pan wrapping up between, so it will be tight!

I drilled the frame and mounted studs and installed the shocks tonight....they came out great. The shocks have 5" of travel and since they're on an angle, it's probably more like 6 inches. So I compressed them an inch and a half and drilled a hole in the frame with no weight on the axle....that will give me at least 3 and a half inches of travel in compression....which I think the axle will hit the frame before bottoming the shocks. These were pretty decent US made shocks I picked up from SpeedWay Motors for $45 for the pair.

I also did a little sanding on the floor "leveler compound" that I filled in the countersunk bolt holes and the seams between deck boards. This stuff is flexible and doesn't sand easily, but I think will work great. It shrunk a bit after drying out, so I need a second skim coat on the bolt head recesses. I'm almost ready to lay the Marmoleum. We picked the Dark Bistre color. It's pretty dark, but seems like it will match our inerior colors and it seems to be "calming"....what else could you ask for while camping right?

Thanks,
Lee
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:34 AM   #73
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got my shocks from speedway motors and installed them. They don't have a upper dust/rock shield, but for the price I can put a new pair on every year if needed

These shocks are a bit shorter than the originals, so I drilled a new hole in the frame a little closer to the axle. I set them up to be at about 1.5" of compression when the weight is off the axle. This provides about 3.5" of travel where I believe the axle will hit the bottom of the frame prior to bottoming the shocks.... We'll see how it works!

Lee
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:34 PM   #74
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So I decided to have a pro do my belly skins after struggling for way too long. I just want it to be right. I'm glad I took it to area 63 productions. Uwe is a great guy and really know his business. He pointed out some previous owner mistakes and new necessities but can't get to mine till August. :-(....... JT
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:01 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 54breadloaf View Post
So I decided to have a pro do my belly skins after struggling for way too long. I just want it to be right. I'm glad I took it to area 63 productions. Uwe is a great guy and really know his business. He pointed out some previous owner mistakes and new necessities but can't get to mine till August. :-(....... JT
It will be worth the wait. I can show you my wrinkled corners to prove that it's better to have it done.
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:45 AM   #76
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yeah...that would be awesome to have a real Pro do it!! I'm a long ways from area 63.... so what's a new belly pan cost from them?? Sounds like a good business to get into if he can't help until august!!

That would be great if you could video tape the entire install :-)
Can't wait to see pictures.

ddstech - what was the hardest part for you? Any advice? I'm figuring I'll be doing this myself.

Thanks guys!

Lee
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:54 AM   #77
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Lee, it seems the PO had some Welding done and ALL of the outriggers off of the main frame were replaced but instead of having nice rounded ends, they were cut on an angle. So their plan is to weld the curved ends on to the outriggers to make it correct then do the belly skins. They build the corners first with the compound curves and then the sides to the main frame members where they kind of fold it under. Then do the center section. I don't think my price will be a fair representation of what it normally would cost because of all the preliminary work that needs to be done but before I took it to him to see it, he quoted about $2800. More than I paid for the trailer but then, I feel like I got a good deal on the trailer and if the belly skins don't look correct, ill be kicking myself for the rest if the build. Good luck.
JT
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:24 AM   #78
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Made a little more progress this weekend....
Finished installing the step at the entry door and cut and kerffed all the aluminum channel around the edge of the floor. I made a small template and cut a small "v" notch every 2 inches, then sawed them out on the band saw. I temporary fastened the channel down just for mock-up purposes as I progressed from piece to piece. I'll take it back off prior to installing the flooring. I purchased 3 aluminum rectangular extrusions 8 feet long made of 6061-T6 with an 1/8" wall thickness. They were 1.5" by 2" cross section and I ripped them down the length to end up with 6 channel pieces 8 feet long. Definitely thicker than the stock 0.032 pieces, but still didn't weight all that much. Should make a nice heavy duty connection between the shell and the floor! Here's some pictures.
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:33 AM   #79
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Looks good Lee. When you re-install the shell, just be patient. If it doesn't fit the first time, trim a little or maybe walk away and think about it for awhile. Try not to get frustrated. ( like me) I hope it fits perfectly the first time. :-)
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:20 AM   #80
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Great work, are you going to add front and rear hold down plates?

toastie
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Old 04-29-2013, 04:10 PM   #81
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Thanks guys....yes, I'm definitely nervous about setting the shell back down. Equally nervous about installing the bellypan so it doesn't look like amateur hour . I think I have a good plan for lowering it back down using 4 floor jacks on the inside. I don't have access to lower it from the roof vents. I'll definitely take my time JT....I'd hate to screw things up at this point - thanks for the words of wisdom!

Hey Toastie, I'm honored that you've looked at my post! It's great to get advice from expert like you guys! I've poured over your posts in the past and am blown away by your capabilities! My trailer had what I think was an originally installed "hold down" plate in the front. It extends down and it is shear fastened to a frame crossmember directly below the front wall. I plan on re-using or at least remaking this. Is this what you're talking about? I don't remember seeing one in the rear. With the storage door in the back, there's not really a directly load path other than around the ends of the door.

I've been thinking about the belly pan....I've been considering using decently thick plastic sheets. Maybe not in the front or rear where it needs to be kerfed and formed, but possibly the 3 middle sheets. Has anyone used plastic for their belly pans?

I appreciate all the help!
Thanks,
Lee
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:25 AM   #82
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Okay....here's what I've been up to. Goshawks has been hounding me for pictures . Anyway, got the Marmoleum laid down. We went with the Dark Bistre color and it turned out great. Love the color and the pattern! It looks like it could've came with the trailer in 1952! We bought 19'2" off the 6'7" wide role (used a little excess to cover the width shortage) for ~$500... then tax and a bucket of the marmoleum adhesive came out to $550. Laid it myself (and some help from my old man) and it went down real easy since it was a bare deck. Just trimmed off the overhang after the adhesive dried! I then finished the permanent installation of the aluminum channel around the edge. Used 1/4" bolts at each frame location and #12 by 1" wood screws every 4 inches between. The weather has been pretty crappy, so I've been working on the "rotisserie mechanism" for installing the belly-pan. I think I'm ready to flip it over when the weather straightens out. I also picked up the belly pan material....5052-H32 x 0.032" (after tax, all the belly pan material came out to ~$330). I've riveted together the pieces that were larger than 4x8, so I'm ready when I get it flipped over. I've also been working on the appliances. The PanelRay heater is ready to go! Here's some pictures.....

Lee
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:55 AM   #83
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Lee,

Top notch work, my friend! Wish you were with me when I did mine. You seem to have some great ideas. Keep it up. It will be interesting to see your progress.

JT
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:06 PM   #84
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Lee how about a pic/description of your "rotisserie mechanism". I've been thinking about chain falls across the barn beams but am still open to other devices that would flip the frame.
Looking good.
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