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Old 12-20-2006, 04:51 PM   #85
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Finished the front seating today - tomorrow on to cushions which I'm better with a needle than a hammer. As for the table not sure what I want yet - found some beautiful old barn oak. What do you all think about color - wondering if I should stain the booth the color of the floor or poly. I like the idea of poly - allowing the natural color to show but concerned about different wood tones throughout the space.
If I place the fresh water tank under the seat is it a problem to pump water completely around the trailer. I plan for the sink along street side and tub on the curbside - so I'm wondering if that's a bit far water to travel from the front.
theresa
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Old 12-20-2006, 05:39 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t.gray
If I place the fresh water tank under the seat is it a problem to pump water completely around the trailer. I plan for the sink along street side and tub on the curbside - so I'm wondering if that's a bit far water to travel from the front.
theresa
I presume you've decided to keep all of the plumbing (except for the gray and black tanks and attendant plumbing) inside the trailer? That's a good choice. Pumping the water around the trailer shouldn't be an issue at all. Many trailers do it.

Roger
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Old 12-21-2006, 04:26 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t.gray
What do you all think about color - wondering if I should stain the booth the color of the floor or poly. I like the idea of poly - allowing the natural color to show but concerned about different wood tones throughout the space.
on mine, i'm planning on having the floor about the color of yours, and have the cabinets natural maple. i haven't decided on a color for the counter tops yet, but it will be a third color. that's certainly not too many in my opinion. in fact, i think the variety is nice. if the cabinets and the floor were the same color, i don't think it would accent as nicely.

jp
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Old 12-21-2006, 09:39 AM   #88
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on mine, i'm planning on having the floor about the color of yours, and have the cabinets natural maple. i haven't decided on a color for the counter tops yet, but it will be a third color. that's certainly not too many in my opinion. in fact, i think the variety is nice. if the cabinets and the floor were the same color, i don't think it would accent as nicely.

jp
Jp, Three colors sounds perfect - I'm debating about using some of the original interior which would add a fourth color and also using a few old drawers which adds even more - pushing for a comfortable contemporary look - so that being said I think I should stick to building all new. Have you decided on a countertop material? I'm playing with the idea of stainless - I would love to use a chunk of wood but afraid of weight - also entraining the idea of a laminate that I could use for countertop and table top - maybe a soft white. It's all fun to think about. I'm with you on not using the floor color for the cabinets. Thanks.
theresa
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Old 12-22-2006, 12:54 PM   #89
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looking nice! i was thinking about the same wood colors for mine. how wide are your floor planks?

jp
hey jp - 3" wood planks and the stain is walnut.
Happy Holidays.
Theresa
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Old 12-26-2006, 10:01 AM   #90
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Lawrence my nieghbor offered help the other day so I handed him the door knob that I had struggled with for months. Three hours later it was in and I bet he never offers his help again.
Looking for comments on my floor plan - distribution of weight - function - all comments welcome.
thank you.
theresa
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Old 12-26-2006, 12:56 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t.gray
Lawrence my nieghbor offered help the other day so I handed him the door knob that I had struggled with for months. Three hours later it was in and I bet he never offers his help again.
Looking for comments on my floor plan - distribution of weight - function - all comments welcome.
thank you.
theresa
Hi T,

I like the idea of the tub under the seat, but you need to get water too and from that spot - what about switching the batteries and the tub so that there is a more direct shot to the grey tank? You would need to run a 1.5 inch pipe from your tub drain to the grey tank, and a couple 3/8 or 1/2" pex lines for your water to the tub - this would need to go beneath the wood stove, close to the floor - your tub would need to be elevated a few inches off the floor of the trailer - just so the bottom of the tub is above the top of the grey tank (so a flatter grey tank is better) - but if you do that the water will flow to the gray tank (grey tank). You could do it the way you have drawn, but you would need to get your water over there, adding a corner to your plumbing and it would all need to go through the electric compartment!

Also, on the electric front - if you want to invert electric (make 120 for your plugs) then my converter charger won't do everything you need, you'll need an inverter/charger for that. I bought a prosine 2.0 on ebay - otherwise they are pretty expensive. You could also get just get the converter charger we talked about and add a stand-alone inverter now or later.

Carlos
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Old 12-26-2006, 01:04 PM   #92
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great work

t.gray, hope you don't mind my throwing some thoughts. I am
a retired high school etc. art teacher. Over the years I came up what I think is an easy way to solve design and color questions. The problem that most face when thinking of design is that when all is said and done, It's about taste and emotional response to what one likes. Here is an example. If one likes the feeling of uniformity, Things should feel like they belong together. In art we call that Unity. If one likes excitement and rowdyness, use bright, many variations, different colors, darks and lights, etc. Great variation creats it's own unity in a feeling of carnival. What often dosen't work is the cautious in the middle aproach which turns out making no statement at all. Some how we don't like an environment that doesn't express who we are.
So here comes some guidelines to designing.
1. What do you want your home away from home to be? Remember it's your mobile palace. This is often referred to as theme.
2. Some guide lines:
One of the easiest way to create a feeling of unity in design is by the use of color. This method was used a great deal by the landscape painters of the 20's and 30's. Here it is: no matter what colors you use in your environment, mix a little of one color in all your colors. Lets say your favorite color is blue. Add a little blue to all colors. It can be just enough so you can see a small change in the original color or a lot to make it have a strong blue look.
Next use your colors in different amounts. If you have the same square feet of each color in your enviroment things tend to look confused.
Here is the guidline I use to create an enviroment:
50 to 60 percent one color - this creates a dominance in your environment
30 to 20 percent second color. This create a transition to the next color
15 to 10 percent third color. This also creates a transition.
05 to 01 percent this color becomes your accent - the pop out detail in your plan.

A very important thing to remember in using these percentages is that they are only GUIDELINES. Another way to put it is these are emotional persentages. Here is another example: Let's say you decided on the first three colors being closely related blues and your accent was to be orange. 5 percent of orange may be way too much.
The final thought: Design is a process of trial and error. Be willing to make changes as you go untill you find the combination that you like.
Here is a retired quote:" never ask a teacher a question"
Don
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Old 12-26-2006, 02:59 PM   #93
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i didn't know you were an art teacher, don. very cool. i'd personally like to see a wine rack integrated in the layout as well. cabs on one side and shirazs on the other... balance is important!


jp
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:59 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
t.gray, hope you don't mind my throwing some thoughts.....
Don
Wow Don - thanks...truly thanks great info. Started the cushions and using a pewter grey cotton...stainless counters and just talked with a nice guy to make a tub to fit inside the booth...love the idea of a copper tub but a lot of money so maybe stainless...as for my sink just might pound out a copper bowl myself (if I find my anvil) but still can't find a feel for the woodwork - so I'll keep your info in my mind. I'm an oil painter and use the trick of adding just a touch of one color to my palette - it works. Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
i didn't know you were an art teacher, don. very cool. i'd personally like to see a wine rack integrated in the layout as well. cabs on one side and shirazs on the other... balance is important!


jp
jp, you're talking my language cabs and shirazs my two favorites...enjoying a glass of cab as I type.
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:39 AM   #95
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Ec-lectric

Theresa,

I know you are dealing with electric right now so I am going to try to lay out the things that confused me when I was starting... Keep in mind I am not an electrician! If others have any corrections to what I post here, please chime in.



Firstly, you will have two different electric systems: 12V DC and 110 V AC. 12V is like what is in your car, 110V is like your house. 110v is obviously dangerous but you can touch your hands to your 12v system with no problem.

The 12V DC is most often provided by your batteries to run things like lights, pumps, stereo, cell phone, laptop computer (with the appropriate adapter). Anything that you can use in an auto lighter socket will work on this system. The batteries will run down with use though, and so you will need to charge them. There are a few ways to do this: Solar, Converter/charger, inverter/charger.


SOLAR - two wires carrying positive and negative will come from your solar panel with about 17-18V - which is too high to connect directly to your 12V batteries, so you need a "charge controller" to adjust the voltage down to 13-15V. This is a glorified battery charger that runs on 17-18 volts. It will sense the charge in your batteries and apply current from your panels appropriately. My system has kept up about 98% of the time. When you need more electric than the sun can provide you can use the following option...


CONVERTER/CHARGER - another glorified battery charger, but one that runs on your household 110V. To use this option you will need to be hooked up to "shore power", plugged into a 110v plug somewhere, a campsite, your house... Once you get the trailer plugged in and power to the converter/charger, it does pretty much the same thing as the charge controller for your solar did for your batteries - it takes the 110v AC and CONVERTS it to 13-15V and begins to sense your batteries state of charge and apply current accordingly. While this is happening, it is also applying enough current to run all your on board 12V systems. Your batteries run low, you find a place to plug in, the converter/charger starts cranking out the 13-15V and soon your batteries are charged - all the while the converter/charger is running your systems too!


110V system - So, in order to hook up that converter/charger, you are going to need a way to get 110v into the trailer (which you already have). The power comes in that plug in the back, goes to your circuit breaker box, and out to the circuits. You might have two circuits or more for your trailer - one to all your plugs, the other to the converter/charger. So when you plug in, not only are all your 12V systems powered by the 110v through the converter/charger, but your 110v plugs in the trailer are powered as well.

INVERTER - If you want to run something like a printer (that runs on 110v), but aren't near a plug-in for shore power, you will need an inverter. An inverter does the opposite of a converter - it changes the 12V DC to 110V AC. You can either go ahead and install the converter/charger and add an inverter to the system, or you could go with...

an INVERTER/CONVERTER/CHARGER - this is more of an all-in-one solution, more expensive. It does everything that a converter/charger does and also adds an inverter. When you are plugged to shore power, it will charge your batteries and run your 12V, also your 110v will be powered. When you are out roaming, you can throw a switch and it will invert power from 12v to 110v for your plugs. This kind of thing is used to protect computer systems - as a backup. The computer is plugged into the inverter/charger, which is plugged into the wall. As long as the power is stable, the inverter/charger passes it along to the computer, all the while charging a set of back-up batteries. If the power is lost, the inverter kicks in right away and provides power to the computer by inverting the 12v batteries up to 110v AC. This is pretty much how it works in your trailer too.


Inverting power isn't efficient, so I try to use 12V as often as possible. Those little black boxes that you plug into the wall and then into your cell phone (or many other devices) are really little converters - they are taking the 110v ac in your house and changing it to a lower voltage (like 5v dc or something). So it is really in-efficient to turn on your inverter in your trailer to change the 12v to 110v and then plug your cell phone into the wall, which changes the 110v back to 5v - instead you want use an auto adapter that changes 12v to 5 directly and skip the inverter. I use my inverter only to power things that I can't adapt to 12v directly. Sometimes it is necessary.



this is meant to be an overview and leaves out things you will need like fuses. When you get ready to install, make a drawing and post it - there are people on the forum here that know a LOT about electric and will help.

Carlos
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Old 12-28-2006, 09:50 AM   #96
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What a thorough post regarding electric in a trailer. Karma to you.

Brad
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Old 12-28-2006, 12:32 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson


an INVERTER/CONVERTER/CHARGER - this is more of an all-in-one solution, more expensive. It does everything that a converter/charger does and also adds an inverter. When you are plugged to shore power, it will charge your batteries and run your 12V, also your 110v will be powered. When you are out roaming, you can throw a switch and it will invert power from 12v to 110v for your plugs. This kind of thing is used to protect computer systems - as a backup. The computer is plugged into the inverter/charger, which is plugged into the wall. As long as the power is stable, the inverter/charger passes it along to the computer, all the while charging a set of back-up batteries. If the power is lost, the inverter kicks in right away and provides power to the computer by inverting the 12v batteries up to 110v AC. This is pretty much how it works in your trailer too.


Carlos
Carlos, wow!

Thanks; this is a tremendous help! and, yes, I am installing solar and wish to use the inverter/converter/charger option described above. I'd like to get your recommendation (and others on this forum) for specific models/makes of suitable devices for this purpose.

also, if anyone could provide a simple 'system schematic' of how it all interconnects (the 110V system, the inverter/charger/converter and the solar), that would help to visualize things.
thanks again.
theresa
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Old 12-29-2006, 12:29 PM   #98
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electric plan

T, here is my plan, more or less... two links that helped me to understand what I was doing too. One thing to be away of - long lengths of wire mean a loss of voltage -- this isn't a problem with your lights and pumps and things, but you want your main wires like solar and inverter to be as short as possible, that is to say that the charge controller and inverter should be close to the batteries. I have one big main dc circuit breaker (100 amps) that comes from my battery - you can see a pic on my thread - and everything is then hooked to the "other side" of this breaker (except my breakaway switch which activates the brakes in case of detachment - this is hooked directly to the battery). That way my batteries are completely isolated by this large circuit breaker - if anything goes wrong it would trip the breaker and remove all the circuits from the battery.

RV Solar Power

RV Technical Articles
(look under 12v side of life part 1 and 2)



the inverter/charger I use:
Prosine Inverter/Chargers by Xantrex - DonRowe.com
pricey! I bought mine old and used for around $400 on ebay. It would be cheaper to just get a converter/charger and a separate inverter. Here, for example:
eBay: Xantrex Prosine 2.0 Inverter Charger 12V PLUS Remote NR (item 120068995626 end time Jan-03-07 10:54:00 PST)
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