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Old 03-14-2006, 05:18 PM   #29
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Hi Theresa...Not sure if you tried to tackle your dent but I thought I'd pass along a little info. I think you might be able to pull a good part of that out with some suction cups which can be picked up for about $5 a piece at your local auto parts store...I bought two and found that heating them with a blow dryer in the center of the suction cup while fully compressed into the crease gives a real tight grip. I managed to get some doosies out of mine this way. I also bought a Ding King dent remover which also works surprisingly well ($20)...you have to be patient and work in a circle at the outer edges working your way towards the middle..also should be at least 50 degress outside for the adhesive to stick....& BTW..it does not damage the finish
Good luck! Ann
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:20 AM   #30
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enduroryda
...you have to be patient and work in a circle at the outer edges working your way towards the middle..also should be at least 50 degress outside for the adhesive to stick....& BTW..it does not damage the finish
Good luck! Ann

Ahh..I worked from the center out and no luck so thanks for the advice when it warms up here in Michigan I will tackle the dents again.

The entire interior is sanded and has a brushed look my question is about clear coating or will the interior keep its look for years without applying a clear coat?

My next question is about the floor I'm using the original plywood - it really looks nice a bit warehouse like. Finished sanding it the other day but found a few black oil spots that have penetrated into the grain could this be from the tarpaper or a spill of some sort? It comes up with aggressive sanding and has a wet feel - in order to remove it completely it would have quite a groove in the floor - it looks fine - any suggestions. For now I'm planning to poly over the spots.
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:47 AM   #31
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Hi T,


You could cut those areas out and make little patches, but if they are solid and not really offensive, you could just leave them too. It's a choice, I think, between seeing a patch or seeing a stain. I don't mind patches though... Could you post a picture of the problem areas?

My aluminum interior door shows fingerprints and smudges and things, but I think a quick touch up with steel wool would get rid of anything I didn't want - I'm not going to put any clear coat on mine - I like the weathered look.

Carlos
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Old 03-22-2006, 07:49 PM   #32
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Hi T,


You could cut those areas out and make little patches, but if they are solid and not really offensive, you could just leave them too. It's a choice, I think, between seeing a patch or seeing a stain. I don't mind patches though... Could you post a picture of the problem areas?


Carlos
Hi Carlos,
A few shots to check out - thinking the floor looks just fine so I plan to poly soon.
Your trailer looks almost finished - it's beautiful - after looking at your thread I started thinking about taking out the locker and closet I'm inspired by your open space and light.
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Old 03-22-2006, 07:51 PM   #33
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Ahh..darn forgot the close up - thanks for looking.
Theresa
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:04 PM   #34
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Hey Tree,

Those look like rust stains from the elevator bolts to me rather than oil spots - humidity over 55 years probably allowed the iron to leach out and color the wood. This can happen really quickly - I put in a non-stainless screw one place and it got a little damp in the rain, instant stain like yours there.

Your interior looks fabulous, really great. My next trailer will probably look just like that if I can manage it. The interior metal is perfectly finished in my opinion, not too reflective, not at all messy looking. I think the floor will look good under a couple coats of poly. If it were mine, I wouldn't use the wipe on stuff but would instead go for a thicker surface application. I know that doesn't suit you... I re-did a floor for some guys in an old dutch stone house, lots of nails, stains, patches. I just sanded off all the paint and put on three coats of poly. It looked great - sort of like a perfectly framed chaotic and messy drawing in a museum, if you understand what I mean. I think your floor will have this quality when you are done.

On the other hand, you could easily put regular poly right on top of the wipe on stuff if you wanted - you could try out the wipe on stuff first and then decide. The other direction is harder. It's a bear to get poly off once it is on. I use the minwax clear satin wipe on poly, by the way. It might be pricey for a surface as big as yours, but maybe not too bad.

Keep posting pictures! Keep going! Six months to show time!

C
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Old 03-27-2006, 09:54 AM   #35
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Hey Tree,

I think the floor will look good under a couple coats of poly. If it were mine, I wouldn't use the wipe on stuff but would instead go for a thicker surface application. I know that doesn't suit you... I re-did a floor for some guys in an old dutch stone house, lots of nails, stains, patches. I just sanded off all the paint and put on three coats of poly. It looked great - sort of like a perfectly framed chaotic and messy drawing in a museum, if you understand what I mean. I think your floor will have this quality when you are done.

On the other hand, you could easily put regular poly right on top of the wipe on stuff if you wanted - you could try out the wipe on stuff first and then decide. The other direction is harder. It's a bear to get poly off once it is on. I use the minwax clear satin wipe on poly, by the way. It might be pricey for a surface as big as yours, but maybe not too bad.

Keep posting pictures! Keep going! Six months to show time!

C
Carlos,
Yes indeed 6 months until our show - looking forward to it - airstreams and art - yea!
I'm with you on the floor the regular poly will look intentional - yes like a chaotic drawing in a museum - you got it. Today I purchased satin poly and hopefully will apply the first coat today. Also received three vents for the roof, which arrived the other day, but I'll need a rivet gun to apply - when you visit will you bring along your rivet gun?
It's feeling like spring here - the sun is bright - anxious to start working.
theresa
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Old 04-08-2006, 11:14 AM   #36
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Floor Completed and Leaky Vents

Finished the floor last week and it turned out just as I had imagined. I followed Carlos’ advice and applied two coats of poly. Since my floor is looking nice I decided it was time to replace the leaky roof vents. One vent had a roasting pan glued over the opening and the other two roof vents just plain didn’t work. So I purchased three inexpensive vents and had a blast installing them. The only bummer is it poured and poured rain a few nights ago and I opened the door with my fingers crossed and darn it all three puddles. So back up on the roof with more gutter seal.
Thanks for looking.
Theresa
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Old 04-08-2006, 11:55 AM   #37
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Here's a shot of the roof vents - not bad just more sealing needed.
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Old 04-08-2006, 03:32 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Here's a shot of the roof vents - not bad just more sealing needed.
You learned to rivet!

I think that alcoa gutter seal will solve your problems. If it is warmish outside it will kind of wick into the seams and seal things up. I just found two more leaks on my trailer... I think it's an ongoing battle.

Looks great. Where did you get the vents?

c
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Old 04-08-2006, 05:21 PM   #39
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
You learned to rivet!

c
Hay, Hay Carlos,
Love riveting – it’s my favorite so far – I’m into it – thanks for your advice it was much easier than imagined. I purchased the vents online at www.vintagetrailersupply.com and I used the alcoa gutter seal you mentioned which worked well – man it’s wicked stuff but good had to toss out my gloves. I didn’t seal the tops of the olympic rivets - could that be the problem? But the vents do look nice especially opened up. Now I just need to start building some furniture. Getting excited for our exhibit how about you?
Theresa
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Old 05-10-2006, 11:11 AM   #40
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Dents Almost Perfect

Had a good couple of days to work on my airstream - what a joy! Made it on the roof to fix the awful dents - not a perfect job but not too bad. I placed a stick under and pounded out as much of the crease as possible - also placed a hanger in one of the rivet holes and pulled - actually it was pretty easy and looks so much better. Still have the front crease to pop out. Having problems installing the doorknob any suggestions?
Theresa
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Old 05-11-2006, 11:00 AM   #41
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1949 18' Trailwind
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Flying Clouds

Hi Theresa,

I know what you mean by loving it one day, wondering what you've gotten yourself into the next! When I bought my 54 FC it had been sitting in a campground storage lot for 28 years, unmoved! I had it one week, changed the jack stand, got new tires and fixed the wiring and headed from NY to Colorado the way it was!!! NO holding tanks, flushed to the ground, fridge didn't work so used a cooler for three weeks, and kept adding to the HUGE list of what needed to be done to make it a home on wheels!

My interior has the original Zolatone which I like but your polishing sure looks great! Don't lose the love!!

Patti
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Old 05-11-2006, 01:26 PM   #42
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Hi Theresa,

I know what you mean by loving it one day, wondering what you've gotten yourself into the next!
Greetings Patti,
Yes you do understand - moments when I think about placing a for sale sign on my trailer and investing in an outdoor hot tub instead. But I love sitting inside my airstream and dreaming about future trips - it's a beautiful object. I'm real happy with the interior but your story sounds familar... no fridge, toliet and no tanks. For now that's just fine but in the future I'd like to install tanks and yes, the list grows. Thanks for your insights.
Theresa
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