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Old 04-07-2009, 10:00 PM   #1
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What thickness aluminum for interior wall coverage is good? and where 2 buy it?

OK, I am planning on buying a few sheets of aluminum and using it to cover some interior wood walls that have wayy too many holes drilled in them and that we just simply want to change the look of.

I watched the DIY videos and liked the idea of using aluminum to cover the bathroom shower wall for a water tights wall, but am also going to do several more interior walls the same way. However, what the video does not tell you is what thickness to use. How thick does it need to be to avoid being damaged too easy, and where is the best place to buy aluminum locally?????

And for those using aluminum, what electric sheers do you use, what is a good brand. I have some air sheers but I dont think they would cut nice enough for this application?

Dave
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:14 PM   #2
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I would recommend .025 or .030 for interior walls. If you are going to leave the exposed aluminum, then you may want to get some alclad (polishable) from:

Airparts Inc. Homepage

If you are going to paint or cover it anyway, you can probably buy non-alcald from you local heating and duct supply. They may have to order it, but should have an source.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:29 PM   #3
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I use Milwaukee electric shears, had them several years with no problems. I get my aluminum from a local scrap dealer at a great price.
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:45 AM   #4
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For covering interior walls you could go as thin as tinfoil if you really wanted, but IMHO .019" would be the best way to go. Thin enough to be easy enough to work with but thick enough to not be flimsy, you can buy it with a painted coat already on it or in mill finish. .024/.025 is readily available in mill finish or painted also. Look for a commercial roofing and sheet metal supply house. Someone like Bradco or ABC supply.

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Old 10-13-2013, 08:46 PM   #5
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would this be suitable to replace the interior skins and not effect the structure? I want to replace, not cover up.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:39 PM   #6
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Check with Woodland Travel Center, Grand Rapids, MI. They are one of Airstream's oldest dealer and have a very complete inventory of parts. I bought aluminum from them the same as used on Airstream exterior panel that has the clearcoat on it.
I did a backsplash in the kitchen area from the countertop to the top cabinets. Pretty easy project, just make templates with either cardboard, or foamboard.
I used "Metal Master" tin snips to cut most of it, and a fine tooth blade in a Bosch jig saw to trim curves, etc.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:50 AM   #7
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I used polished Stainless Steel for the same purposes when I refurbished my 83 Sovereign. It provided the same look, yet will never need polished, just clean with windex.
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:04 PM   #8
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How does one insulate when replacing with Aluminum?

I like the aluminum interior of the newer trailers, but I have read several posts talking about the thermal aspects of the aluminum interior. If the interior aluminum is riveted to the ribs and the ribs are riveted to the outer skin that would seem to provide a good conduction path for heat in in the summer and heat out in the winter. Is something done to isolate the interior aluminum in the newer trailer or when retrofitting an older one with aluminum interior?
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
I like the aluminum interior of the newer trailers, but I have read several posts talking about the thermal aspects of the aluminum interior. If the interior aluminum is riveted to the ribs and the ribs are riveted to the outer skin that would seem to provide a good conduction path for heat in in the summer and heat out in the winter. Is something done to isolate the interior aluminum in the newer trailer or when retrofitting an older one with aluminum interior?
You could put a layer of 5mm Prodex between the inner skin and the ribs, and rivet right through it. You'd still have heat conduction via the rivets, but a thermal break along the rest of the contact surface.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:57 AM   #10
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You could put a layer of 5mm Prodex between the inner skin and the ribs, and rivet right through it. You'd still have heat conduction via the rivets, but a thermal break along the rest of the contact surface.
That's exactly what I did on my '63. So far, so good.
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:28 AM   #11
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has anyone ever done a replacement of the interior skin (painted alum.) using "Formica" or forming plywood (comes in many veneer types) and glued the skin on without rivets or screws for a clean look?
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