Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-14-2015, 11:25 AM   #1
New Member
 
1965 22' Safari
Coalmont , Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Wall & Floor Insulation

I'm refurbing a '65 Safari Single and have the skin off and frame redone, axle in and new floor ready. I would like to put foil backed 1 1/2 inch fiberglass in walls and ceiling but can't find any locally. (I live in the Colo boondocks).
My refer works but needs new door seal. Any idea where that can be found?
Thanks, Duke
__________________

__________________
Notyetshiny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2015, 11:16 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,627
Images: 3
You've hit on one difficulty insulating, finding anything in 1.5 inches thick. I looked for fiberglass and mineral wool in 1.5 inches couldn't find it. Foil backing won't make a difference in the trailer if it's with 1.5 " insulation. You could split 3.5" fiberglass, it'll be messy though.
I ended up using Prodex on my 79 takes time to install since you have to cut to fit each area , but I'm VERY happy with the tesults and its performance. My installation method was probably a bit intensive though.
Not sure about reefer door seal.
__________________

__________________
HiJoeSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2015, 10:49 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,199
Welcome to the Forums!

I put 1.5" thick fiberglass insulation in my walls that had a shiny "foil" layer on one side (it isn't the bubble wraps stuff, just shiny layer). The trick is that it is sold as insulation blanket for wrapping water heaters, furnaces or duct work. I found it at Home Depot, and if I recall correctly, it was in the area of the water heater related stuff, not in the insulation area. Came in rolls that were about 18-24" wide, and 20 ft. long or so.

good luck!
__________________
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2015, 11:39 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Mixter's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
Welcome to the Forums!

I put 1.5" thick fiberglass insulation in my walls that had a shiny "foil" layer on one side (it isn't the bubble wraps stuff, just shiny layer). The trick is that it is sold as insulation blanket for wrapping water heaters, furnaces or duct work. I found it at Home Depot, and if I recall correctly, it was in the area of the water heater related stuff, not in the insulation area. Came in rolls that were about 18-24" wide, and 20 ft. long or so.

good luck!
Good to know. Which direction did you put the foil- towards inside or out? Also, does it have an R rating? Are you able to compare performance?

I too, think I will be going back in with fiberglass instead of the Prodex route. My concern here in Florida is heat- NOT cold. Everything I've read leads me to believe the fiberglass is as good as it gets to insulate against heat and sound.... and my bigger problem will be the conductive heat transfer from the exterior skin to the ribs inside.

Other than R rating, my other concern is about what happens when whatever is in there, gets wet. Because I'm certain it will get wet at some point.

Wetness is the only thing that would lead me away from fiberglass.
__________________
Mixter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2015, 04:26 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,199
I had all the same dilemmas trying to decide what to do with my insulation, and let the dithering slow the project by months. I ended up installing a layer of reflectex and two layers of styrofoam board to fill roughly the bottom 18-24" of the walls. My strategy here was that if rodents got into the walls, they may find this mostly solid layer of foam less "nesty" than the fiberglass. Also, I figured when the inevitable water gets into the wall, it can pool up in the C-channel and the foam down there won't absorb/wick it up. The fiberglass with foil I filled the rest of the curve of the walls up to the ceiling. It was just way easier working the fiberglass than any of the stiff foam panels, which would have been my next choice.

I have heard the rave reviews about the Prodex, and I have some reflectix here and there in my trailer now. The biggest problem I had with it is that the promises the manufacturer makes of R-16 are based on a lot of air space in a typical house's wall. I emailed back and fourth with one of their technical reps, who readily admitted that as you shrink the air space around the foil, you will lose R value rather rapidly. I did some back of the napkin calculations and came to the conclusion that it was unlikely that I would have any greater R value from the Prodex in a 1.5" thick wall than I would if I stuffed it full of fiberglass. Plus, I wanted some sound deadening capability from my insulation, and I found it hard to imagine that the radiant foils alone would help much along those lines. Also, I discovered that even the stickiest of aluminum tapes lose their grip on raw aluminum when they get hot long enough, which really made me question how to keep the foil in place for the long haul. Figured it might all end up in a pile at the bottom of the wall.

As to the direction of the foil (facing inside or out), here was another thought exercise. You figure that it is used to wrap your central heating/AC duct work, meaning half the year you are trying to keep the air inside the duct cool, and half the year, you are keeping it warm. With that thought in mind, I figured that the foil must reflect on both sides. So I put the foil facing into the trailer, theorizing that the fluff of the fiberglass insulation creates something of an air gap, and I wanted that air gap to be between the foil and the shell so that it may do a better job of reflecting heat out (since my concern is the blistering TX sun).

I don't recall the stuff I bought advertising an R value, but the household inner-wall stuff that is roughly 3.5" thick I recall had about R-12 or R-13, so I'm estimating that by having about half that thickness, I'll end up with R-5 or 6 with an unknown radiant reflecting contribution from the foil. The best foam board I found, similarly would have given me about R-6 for a solid 1.5" thick layer.

Good luck!
__________________
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2015, 04:38 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Notyetshiny View Post
I'm refurbing a '65 Safari Single and have the skin off and frame redone, axle in and new floor ready. I would like to put foil backed 1 1/2 inch fiberglass in walls and ceiling but can't find any locally. (I live in the Colo boondocks).
My refer works but needs new door seal. Any idea where that can be found?
Thanks, Duke
As to the refrigerator seal, I had a Dometic that dated back to 1973. Searched high and low but could not find a direct replacement seal for it. There are companies that sell a "cut to fit" universal replacement refer door seal that I bought to reseal the door on a small household upright freezer. The results were unimpressive, and the new seal ended up being noticeably thinner than the original, so I am not convinced I accomplished much.

good luck!
__________________
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2015, 12:00 PM   #7
2 Rivet Member
 
1968 26' Overlander
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 61
Images: 17
Blog Entries: 2
A question, why doesn't anyone in these restorations use closed cell spray foam insulation. Seems like a no brainer in that it would add rigidity to the shell, is effectively waterproof, so leaks would not reach interior and could be done by a professional in a short time.

Is there something I am missing?
__________________
AirstreamPDX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2015, 12:13 PM   #8
Vintage Kin
 
slowmover's Avatar
 
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 7,583
Images: 1
Future repairs, is one.

Do a search. One very long thread on this, plus others.
__________________
1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 9-cpm solo, 15-cpm towing
Sold: Silver Streak Model 3411
slowmover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2015, 01:55 AM   #9
Silver Star
 
rucos's Avatar
 
1970 23' Safari
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 102
I found using 2 layers of 3/4" foam sheet worked well in the walls.... and was easier to bend etc than the 1 1/2".
__________________
rucos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2015, 11:17 AM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
1965 30' Sovereign
1969 23' Safari
Redgranite , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 70
Spray Foam?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AirstreamPDX View Post
A question, why doesn't anyone in these restorations use closed cell spray foam insulation. Seems like a no brainer in that it would add rigidity to the shell, is effectively waterproof, so leaks would not reach interior and could be done by a professional in a short time.

Is there something I am missing?
Spray foam is interesting. See Sprinter Forum for how NOT to apply it. Photo shows permanently wavy body panels from too thick a layer being applied, resulting in heat warped panels. Adhesion of foam doesn't allow panels to return to prior smooth state. This can be avoided by applying multiple thin layers to allow it to flash and cool. Keep in mind that's on steel.

I'm not sure how it would work on aluminum. As anyone can attest, these skins move. Take a trailer from the cool garage into the warm sun and listen to it "oil can".

Future fixes or mods would definitely be tough if the panels were "glued" on. Plus, you'd have to trim the inside foam and/or mask off ribs to re-install interior.

Someone has probably tried and posted results.
__________________
Lots to do. Getting there.
65Streamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2015, 12:05 AM   #11
Silver Star
 
rucos's Avatar
 
1970 23' Safari
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 102


I looked at my photos and realized I used 2 layers of 1/2" .... it has a decent R value for the space available and is easy to work with ...i also used some fiberglass where i had wiring etc.
__________________
rucos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2015, 05:38 AM   #12
2 Rivet Member
 
2009 27' FB International
Silsbee , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 67
Reading the original post I did not read that it needed to be in board / sheet form. With that said check with metal building companies (Mueller) etc.. They use a roll / blanket insulation that has a foil to the outside (next to the metal walls) and plastic to the inside with glass fibers in between. Not sure on the R Values.
__________________
Craig Schrader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2015, 09:26 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
 
AlbertaBound's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 28
1975 Argosy 22
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Camrose , Alberta
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 74
Duct insulation is what you are referring to. Foil face (FSK) one side. Available in roll form or 2' by 4' rigid sheets. Most HVAC / sheet metal shops should be able to get it for you.
__________________
AlbertaBound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2015, 02:08 PM   #14
1 Rivet Member
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Macon , Georgia
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 6
Has anyone used spray closed cell foam? Seams like it would insulate, seal seams and add structure to walls without adding much weight.
__________________

__________________
landscox is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Adding wall and ceiling insulation Lumatic General Interior Topics 1 03-02-2013 03:05 PM
Wall Material & Insulation tr0y Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 0 03-20-2011 10:52 AM
Does old fiberglass insulation equal new fiberglass insulation? Petethefeet General Interior Topics 7 11-14-2010 01:16 PM
Wall-to-wall carpet alternative mcneon Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 9 11-20-2008 02:41 PM
Outer Wall Insulation Cat Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 1 01-25-2005 09:26 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.