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Old 04-03-2006, 04:55 PM   #1
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Ely , Minnesota
Posts: 22
Images: 15

Upgrading insulation 63 overlander

I'm wondering if anyone has replaced the insulation in an airstream with something more efficient? I have a 1963 overlander and see that it is perhaps an inch of fiberglass. In my search for insulation options I came
across a product called "Nansulate" which is a direct result of nanotechnology. A VP of
Owens Corning Science & Technology Center described it as "so
revolutionary, it's being compared to the discovery of fire, the
Industrial Revolution, and the invention of the internet."
It can be rolled on, brushed or low volume sprayed....needs
three coats. Anyone out there tried this? What about any other options? I'm planning to remove interior panels anyway in order to repair/replace wiring and address a few large dents. While the panels are off I'd like to come up with something which will do a better job of keeping out the heat in summer and holding it in during cold weather. Any comments or options are welcomed.
Silverbear

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Old 04-03-2006, 05:04 PM   #2
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Profile:  , Minnesota
Posts: 5,055
Images: 59
Airstream Registry

Here is some previous information. As far as I know, no-one has tested it on an Airstream.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/-a-16916.html
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Old 11-18-2007, 09:26 AM   #3
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Profile:  1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Posts: 1,026

On the surface this material sounds promising but if you do the math it is of very limited value in an A/S application. It's stated "R" value of R-13 per inch would be great if it was applied in inches but it is to be applied in mils. The stated dry film thickness of the three recommended coats is a max of 7.5 mils which even at the max "R" value of R-13 per inch yields a total "R" value of R-0.104. The 1" +/- of fiberglass that is the A/S standard equipment is more than 30 times the "R" value of the recommended application of "Nansulate"

To be fair, the website does state that the intended application is for circumstances where the maximum insulating value is needed within a thin coating.
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:35 AM   #4
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Profile:  Currently Looking...
turner , Oregon
Posts: 2

I am also re-insulating my 1969 31 footer. I plan on taking the floor up, cleaning everthing out and also taking the walls down. I am thinking about using porable expanding foam instead of the 'normal' insulation in both the belly and the walls. I think if I put a section of floor down with a series of 2" holes I could pour the foam in and any extra would expand through the holes. Is this just crazy talk or feasible?
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Old 10-13-2008, 02:15 PM   #5
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
Twin Mosquitos , Minnesota
Posts: 737
Images: 2

crazy talk - only a few pourable foams out there that won't TOTAL your trailer with harmful side-effects... Then even with a benign foam over the years it can get nasty; water leaks never drying and bacteria and molds having an endless happy hour; no pourable foam is 100% closed cell so it will absorb moisture if the two meet...
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:58 PM   #6
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Profile:  1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Posts: 1,104
Images: 19

I advocate the use of reflective foil insulation...

There has been a lot of discussion here in the forums about all sorts of insulation approaches. I for one favor the use of reflective foil insulation. For some interesting reading check out the following threads as a place to start. I would be happy to try to answer any questions that I can about what I did and why.

Some insulation tests:

Insulation effectiveness tests

More tests and information about insulation: See my posts 59 and 82
Painting airstream red!

Lots of details of what I did with some good photos:

Foil Bubble Insulation Methods

More tips and tricks:

Foil insulation - observations, tips and tricks

Malcolm
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