hi all- just got a '72 international, and was wondering: Is it better for eventual re-sale to leave these '70's models original, or totally re-do the interior to modern, "tricked-out" tastes? Hopefully you'll say the latter, as I don't find the current interior all that beautiful, not like the wood of the '60's. Either way, any tips on sourcing mattress foam, reading-light fixtures, maybe a new toilet and fridge, closet door latches,tambour, etc. Thanks a lot for any help- new to this and excited!
Congrats, I have a '72 Overlander myself as well as a '73 Sovereign under contruction/renovation.
The 70's interiors are not very attractive and the yellow bath fixtures are absolutely hideous. As my floor was rotted out anyway, I went for the complete bath restoration including 2-part epoxy paint and am very satisfied with the results.
If you have all original appliances, plan on replacing them, as they will probably need it. The Sealand china toilets are very nice and the newer Dometic refrigerators are so much nicer than the original (inside light as well as auto select for gas/electric).
I also built a wrap around dinette which you can see in my pics (click on link above) as well as bunks.
I think you've got to do what makes it best for you and hope that when it comes time to sell it that someone else has similar ideas or needs to yours. I am redoing a 66 Tradewind. It has beautiful old wood veneers that I am trying to preserve. I can't say that about most of the 70s units that I have seen.
hey- did check out rolling thunder, thanks. And taking out the entire rear floor looks pretty scary!! Is that subflooring screwed on to the frame or what? what exactly is the process for removal? I'm thinking of trying to make a rear-bed confab out of a rear-bath: does this mean tearing up the floor to re-route the plumbing? If that's too much to tackle, then just taking out the old oven which sits in the wall above the sink, somehow getting a queen bed somewhere, maybe totally reconfiguring all the built-in cabinetry (I'm a carpenter/woodworker), replacing old carpet with hard surface, etc. I'd like to get her as light as possible along the way, too. How far have some of you gone with this kind of re-do? thanks
A re-do that fits your taste and lifestyle will make your trailer more livable and you will not have to think about resale. The beauty of an Airstream is that they are fairly easy to work on.
We remodeled the interior of our 75 tradewind then sold it to a wonderful couple who have continued the process. Our motorhome just went through a complete interior remodel which is totally our design and fits the way we travel.
Welcome to the family of Airstream tinkerers, enjoy your treasure and have fun.
,,,,, And taking out the entire rear floor looks pretty scary!!.....How far have some of you gone with this kind of re-do?
"Redo's" vary from changing out a throw rug to a frame-off restoration...do a search on "Full Monty".
There are threads within the Forums that describe both of the above scenarios - and most everything in between.
You questioned in the first posting of this thread about the "best" redo with a future sale in mind. In my opinion, doing a thorough search for any and all corrosion and/or floor rot, then documenting the search and repair, is, by far, the best "redo" to gaurantee the maximum return when selling your unit.
I have looked at many trailers from the 70's and 80's, and, in truth, have been able to find SOME floor rot or corrosion in all, except those garaged all of their lives. I have to say that most of the owners were unaware of the impending problems with their units, but being ignorant of a problem does not make it go away.
To properly inspect for floor rot requires removal of most, if not all of the interior furniture. This is not difficult to do - it just takes some time. Remember, all of the furniture and cabinets came in through the door, and it will all disassemble and exit through that same door. Dropping the belly pan is also a good idea - take a good look at all of the stringers and remove and vermin nests, droppings, and carcasses. Removal of the insulation is also possible with the underbelly exposed.
A "Full Monty", while time consuming, is quite "doable" by anyone with a reasonable knowledge of hand tools, common sense, and enough convenient space to work on the trailer.
Keep the Forum posted.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Don't move the bathroom as it would be way more trouble than it's worth.
Also, we have enjoyed having our countertop oven, even though it does intrude into the bedroom a bit.
If you want a queen size bed, remove the front gaucho and dinette and build a wraparound. I don't recall what the length of your unit is, but if it's a 29' or 31', you could probably have a king size bed.
I will be building another one soon for my Sovereign and have kept lots of pictures/measurements from the Overlander. Wasn't very difficult and doesn't have to be very heavy.
If I'm going to completely gut the bathroom anyway and start over, would it still be too much trouble to run the plumbing down the side walls to get a side bath, rear bedroom? I'm guessing it might entail either re-locating the black tank under the new toilet position, or putting the new toilet up on a raised pedestal in order to get some gravity drain over to the existing black tank. Anyone done this kind of thing? thanks!
If I'm going to completely gut the bathroom anyway and start over, would it still be too much trouble to run the plumbing down the side walls to get a side bath, rear bedroom?
Lots and lots of things to consider in a toilet and shower/bath relocation.
Observe where the current inlets for the tanks are located and do a "dry run" on placing the sewerage and drainage pipes - I doubt if you will have enough slope to move the grey water, much less the solids from the toilet. The tanks will still be located in the rear (unless you move them), so problems with the weight locations will still be an issue. Granted, very little travel is done with any appreciable fluids in the tanks, but the possibility of improper weight loading will still be there.
Unless the exterior was in near perfect condition AND I planned on keeping the unit "forever" I would not consider taking on such an aggressive overhaul.
You would be WAY better off, financially and timewise, to sell the rear bath unit and purchase a side bath unit for "customizing" if a side bath is that important.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
hi- and thanks for the advice- gosh knows I need it! Are you aware of any clever remodels for the mid-bed area to get a queen in, with minimum set-up/take-down each morning and night? Or is it best to just make a queen/couch up front and leave the mid/rear as it is? I'd really prefer to have a dedicated bedroom somewhere towards the rear though- Maybe I'll add a second story, with spiral stairs. I tried a basement, and that didn't work out. I love this process! -tim
To pre-qualify: this is only my opinion - yours is the only one that matters.
If your trailer is near original. I would ask that you take a bigger picture look at the whole of '72 internationals. Keep it original, use it, take care of it, and look for a trailer that needs love to make your own. Leave the original, original for someone else to take off of your hands once you have your trailer made the way you want it.
If people with 40's, 50's, and 60's trailers had all done mods, we wouldn't have any originals left.
I'm all for the mods, I just hope they are doing so with trailers that need to be brought back to life.
That is our plan for our next trailer addition to the family.
Just one man's honest opinion. It's worth everything you paid me for it.
__________________ Mark
72 Sovereign: L couch, mid-twin, rear-bath
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it"
"It was impossible to get a conversation going; everybody was talking too much."
"If you don't know where you are going, you will wind up somewhere else." - Yogi Berra
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