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Old 02-12-2006, 10:06 AM   #71
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International in Oregon

hi- will post a pic showing why my progress is at a crawl.... The cover is doing a swell job of keeping all tree/bird goo off my coach, and even lets lots of light inside, but it's just that much more effort to cinch the thing up by the door to get in. Come spring, I'll be motivated to get after it 24/7! Are lots of you going to the international in Oregon? Can someone tow my coach in back of theirs?? -tim
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Old 02-13-2006, 11:39 AM   #72
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On the headroom issue with the shower curtain, we used an I beam. I think sneakinup used the same thing and he has pictures posted somewhere. It works very well.
Dawn
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Old 04-18-2006, 09:33 AM   #73
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Rodents!

Well howdy- it's been a while. It has somewhat warmed up here, so I've had the door open to work on the remodel and yesterday I heard the dreaded "scratch-scratch" coming from inside the wall. I have 2 or 3 openings where a mouse could get into a wall cavity, and I guess one did. Now what?? Aside from putting traps around the floor and waiting, are there any other tricks to enticing these things from their fiberglass nests? Otherwise, all I have done is build the bed deck, and fit some cherry formica as sliding doors for the upper bins. I'm trying to do a good-looking up-date BUT it is also important to me to keep it as cheap, simple, and light as possible. I also want to keep some of the original look, whether in bulkhead placement and shape, re-using original fridge, heater, cooktop, and sink, or leaving the interior skin as is. I'd also like to be able to use it this summer! Continued thanks to all of you for ideas and inspiration, gotta go check my mouse traps. -tim
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Old 04-29-2006, 11:30 AM   #74
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2 mice and counting?

hi- I've got 4 mouse traps scattered around the coach, have caught 2 near the hole in the galley floor for the plumbing fittings. There are no obvious holes, is it possible for a rodent to get up into the main chassis rail through one of it's holes, and then just walk down the rail to this access compartment? If so, it's certainly an argument for having a sealed belly-pan. I will have to try and fit some screening around all those pipes for the time being I guess. Have gotten the wardrobe area mostly done, just made some simple bins for clothes, one short clothes rod, no doors. Between the bins, and upper compartments, and under-bed storage (tons), should be plenty. I do need to do doors, or just a curtain, for the under-bed openings. And a room-divider curtain too. And shower curtain, new window screen, argghh it never ends! This is the question: does it ever actually end? Is that when you buy another old one? Hope all your projects are going well, with no mice- tim
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Old 05-06-2006, 11:53 AM   #75
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fridge: sealed against wall?

howdy- moved the fridge back in, getting ready one of these days to rebuild the kitchen area. I was wondering if they need to be somewhat sealed against the walls and flue, to totally prevent any fumes from getting into the kitchen area? Would using the foil-bubble stuff to do this be a good idea, or will the cabinet walls and countertop be good enough? This is the original dometic 2-way that I cleaned, turned upside down for a while, and fitted with a new panel of embossed aluminum in the door. I hope it lasts for many more years! Also, is it simple to replace just the lock cylinder in the main door? mine works, but seems worn and "sloppy". If it were new I might not want or need to install a deadbolt. Thanks- tim
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Old 05-14-2006, 09:25 AM   #76
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new screen

howdy- got some new black fiberglass screen from HD, and the spline tool, and tried my hand at putting it into the old screen frames, which I stripped the old paint off of. I can't say that the screen is always parallel to the frame (whatever tricks there are to installing this stuff, I don't know them!) but it is quite taut. I ruined one attempt by having the screen stretched too rigidly, and broke some of the strands when pushing in the spline. I used the old spline material, nothing wrong with it and didn't see the right stuff anyway at HD. The curves are the toughest because often the spline groove is of a reduced diameter, requiring using some other tool to force the spline in. A roll of screen 48" by 84" is $8.45, and 36" by 84" is $6.45, from HD. Hope all your restorations are going great- tim
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Old 05-26-2006, 09:03 AM   #77
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the view from here...

hi- had some nice light on Twin Sisters last evening, the view from where my A/S is parked (permanently?). Will share that with you, and a pic of a bit of progress on some kitchen cabinet frames, and the new sub-countertop with fixtures dropped down in to check for fit. Am thinking something bold for the formica. I also wonder why, in the list of upcoming rallies, I haven't seen mention of the one up here in Estes Park, Colo. on july 22-23, for the Denver unit of wbcci I believe. I can't wait to check out all of your coaches and meet you! It's being held in a campground right next to the visitors center for Rocky Mt. Nat. park, with an incredible view of the front range. Got to go- tim
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Old 05-26-2006, 11:57 AM   #78
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Great detailed pictures. I'm still looking for my first AS! It's out there somewhere. Hope your project gets finished as you want it to. Look forward to see finshed trailer!

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Old 05-29-2006, 02:11 PM   #79
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kitchen shaping up...

hi all you re-doers out there- just a progress report. (and good luck to "tolla"- just be PATIENT!) Decided to add a cabinet next to fridge, to make countertop bigger and line up with the other one. We like to cook, and are used to a LOT of countertop at home- I think I'll also put back that flip-up countertop that was in it, probably in the same place, next to cooktop. Don't think so with that slide-out shelf, will have a drawer instead. (There is enough room under the cooktop for a shallow one, with normal-sized front on it.) I'm going to splurge (for me) and get sheet alum. for the back of the curbside countertop, probably at least part of the other but not sure how to deal with the dang fridge vent?#!* Have any of you created something nice to hide the vent? just build out entire wall to left of vent to same dimension, and cover with alum.? Just paint it and leave it? wood panel? I want to leave the countertop as deep as possible, not like how it was with that tambour-wall splitting it about in half. Also, if you can see the formica swatches, what do you think? My wife likes the burgundy, I'm not sure if that wouldn't be "too much"- any opinions? I will edge the top with maple, beveled top edge. Have fun out there!- tim
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Old 05-29-2006, 08:34 PM   #80
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Tim it's looking great. I'm with your wife go with the burgundy. You need a splash of color Your stovetop looks good to.
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Old 06-01-2006, 10:37 AM   #81
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plugging away

hi- and thanks, Dawn. We may go with a bit more sedate formica, and then get color from curtains, rugs, and upholstery. I do like the burgundy, just think now that 2 countertops may be too much? Anyway, finally solved the bedding foam issue, I went with a queen-sized bottom layer of 2", 38# foam, with a top layer of 2" memory foam on my wife's side, and 2" of 28# foam on my side. This gives us a 4" thick mattress with a firmer side for me, plusher side for my wife. It's super comfortable!! Also got most of the alum. backsplash up yesterday, will probably fashion some kind of birch stand-off on either side of the fridge vent, and cover the face with more alum. I want to leave the countertop as deep as possible, not divided like it used to be with the tambour thing. Today I will edge the sub-countertops with maple, put a few more ledgers in underneath, and be ready to glue down the formica when it comes in. Still wondering what type doors to make for the kitchen cabs, what type hardware, latches, etc. Want to keep them light and simple-? So- gotta go and get after it- Tim
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Old 06-04-2006, 03:57 PM   #82
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chickened out!

hi all- well after thinking about using a bold-colored formica top, I totally chickened out and went with a mottled beigey thing called "antique roca", made by wilsonart. It's VERY "safe"- not like me at all. I don't know what happened... Now I HAVE to use some bold color in curtains, upholstery, rugs, etc. to liven things up a bit. Also enclosed the fridge vent with maple sides, alum. front, copper brackets. Next: finish up the shower curtain, decide on what kind of cabinet door hardware, and what kind of doors. Will have a few drawers up top- BUT- I'd sure like to find some hardware that latches these things really securely for traveling- I'll search around but if anyone knows of nifty, chrome, latch-able pulls, like on some older coaches- please let me know? Will also build a little angled cabinet for the oil-radiator heater that came with coach and is in great condition, puts out a lot of heat. Electric. So- ideas on cabinet hardware-anybody?? thanks- tim
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Old 06-04-2006, 09:17 PM   #83
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I like it, Tim. You're getting a nice deco-modern effect mixing earthy natural colors and metal, and you've avoided that "gotta curve" mindset that Airstream had in the seventies. And, goodness, you actually have space to PREPARE things in the galley. It looks like luxurious, humongous space to me.

I am concerned, though, that if you want to use the trailer for more than a weekender, you may want to change to a full-size fridge. Have your plans considered that?

As for your effort, I have nothing but praise. This is turning out gorgeous, and I like your do it once, do it right mentality combined with the craftsmenship required to achieve it.

Well, I looked at all the pictures again, and I had to go back and edit. I think you're creating the "organic Airstream." I look at the cabinets in mine, and the pattern repeats over and over again. It's sort of like they wanted the impression of any small area to be related to the larger space, but the user shouldn't think about it. He should think, "Sumptuous," 70's style.

Lamar
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:13 PM   #84
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heater cabinet with TV ledge

Hi- and Thankyou, Lamar! Your fridge comment is something I've thought about, as I would love to one day spend a fair amount of time in this thing, during Colorado winters, somewhere south and warmer. But I just couldn't bear to fork out another grand for a new, bigger fridge, when this one is in very good shape. I also definitely wanted the counter space, which a tall fridge would diminish. So, the compromise (my life is full of them) is to also take along a big cooler , mainly for drinks and veggies, which can take up a LOT of space. It's hard to cram everything you're used to in a house into 150 sq. ft., so prioritizing gets pretty important here, based on lifestyle. I may regret it- it wouldn't be the first time. Today I built the little cabinet that holds the radiator-heater, which came with the coach and works great. I suppose a smallish flat-screen tv could sit on top, or a beer. I think I'll re-install the hinged countertop thing that was mounted next to the cooktop, maybe with an alum. top to set warm pots on, or cold beers, still thinking on that one. Still gotta find some good, latchable cabinet door and drawer hardware- didn't see much on the internet. Well- time for dinner- tim
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