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Old 08-31-2015, 05:17 PM   #15
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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That floor looks like what mine did after I scraped up all the old parquet tiles. I ended up using some floor leveling compound in the worst spots and then laid 1/8" ply on top as an underlayment. I then put down a loose lay vinyl plank on top. All that work is documented here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...or-127619.html

For sure the floor would be much nicer with a shell off, but that is several orders of magnitude more work. Unless you have serious rot in the back or need to do some major frame work, I wouldn't do it. Many folks have replaced sections or patched in spots or sealed up with some penetrating epoxy. Rot in the rear is more problematic than up front because the rear of the frame will tend to sag down due to weight. Up front, the weight of the shell tends to hold it down so it isn't nearly as critical.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:53 PM   #16
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1973 25' Tradewind
Rapid City , South Dakota
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Thanks Bob! I will check out your post. The floor in the rear feels fine ( no soft spots or dark areas) Is there any other place other than removing the shower pan and toilet I can check back there to see if there is rot?
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:40 PM   #17
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1972 23' Safari
Camas , Washington
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check out our subfloor and what was found, post # 17. we did replace the sub floor and had to have the rear 3' of frame redone due to rot and rusted out frame. We did the replacement with the shell on.
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f420...d-98384-2.html
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdAir View Post
Thanks Bob! I will check out your post. The floor in the rear feels fine ( no soft spots or dark areas) Is there any other place other than removing the shower pan and toilet I can check back there to see if there is rot?
We did replace the last 4' of floor the first winter we had the trailer. If you look at the blog link, its all documented there. Unless you have a trailer that came from a desert climate or was stored inside all its life, its a fairly sure bet you will have some rot, especially in the back. I didnt care for the layout of the rear bath, so when I gutted it, I put in everything new except the toilet and even that got put on a pedestal to get it about 4 inches higher.

To make sure there are no issues there, you could pull the banana wraps in back and pull away the insulation and see what the bottom of the plywood looks like, especially at the edge where it connects to the c channel and the shell. The design of these trailers has a big inherent flaw in that they rely on the plywood to keep the whole structure stiff. Its like a box with all sides taped shut, hard to deform, but if you open up one or more sides, then the rest of the box can move.

The frames in these 70's vintage trailers are undersized and especially with the longer rigs, the weight of the frame itself will pull it away from the floor and the shell. For peace of mind, you should get a good look at the floor either from the top or the bottom. If you don't want to replace the bath, then go with the process that has less deconstruction which is from the bottom. And if it is rotten, its all gotta come out anyway. But its still not shell off.
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:02 PM   #19
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1973 25' Tradewind
Rapid City , South Dakota
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I got the Banana wraps of today and about to drop the belly pan in the front. It looks like the frame is fine. Has surface rust and some pitting but no holes or any major damage I can see. I will search more when I replace the sub-floor in the front. I used some rubber Bristle grinding wheels to knock off the first layer. Do I need to get all of the rust off to spray a frame coating? any other advise would be appreciated.

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Also what is this thing?
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:03 PM   #20
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