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Old 08-28-2013, 08:13 PM   #85
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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Hi Tim,

I'm not sure how this is supposed to work. Electricity is not my strong area. I was hoping you would get yours done and I could copy you. HAHA! I would ask Sparky. With a name like that, he would know for sure. :0)
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:13 PM   #86
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Man, I hate it when I get a post almost done and hit the wrong key
Oh well here goes again. If I am reading things right I will need 5 runs from the U connector to the rear lights (for a 7 pin connector)
Left turn
right turn
marker/running lights
back up
brakes
also 12v hot and ground Correct?
Doesn't seem too difficult but I think I need the lights in hand so I don't waste any of this marine grade 16/2 cable. Ain't cheap!
Does any one make a dual marker/turn signal for the sides?
seems like it would make sense but I haven't found any with a quick search.
I will soon be working on the interior 120v/12v wiring harnesses and will greatly appreciate any hints/drawings etc.
Everybody here has been a great help, thanks again
tim
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:15 AM   #87
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Jen and I went on vacation all this week, didnt get a lot done on the airstream but we decided we needed to actually enjoy ourselves a little.
Spent 2 days and nights at Bryce canyon and wouldnt you know it, the fog rolled in. The forest was beautiful through the low cloud cover (almost 9000ft) with a bit of drizzle but the incredible views were mostly invisible. Luckily weve been here before so we still enjoyed a nice quiet weekend. Reminded me a lot of western WA state actually fog and rain the whole time but green and beautiful.
Spent the day thursday shopping, went to West Marine, Camping World, looked at Marmoleum at a couple of places and even Zolatone. This is going to be a much busier winter than the last.
We did manage to get the side panel in front of the door replaced. it was pretty battered and we removed the window to prep for a dinette install. Traded the window a while back to Robin (melody ranch) for a roll of beautiful bronze window screen and finally got tired of looking at the hole in the trailer. All in all not too bad a job. New glass is being cut for that window since the piece in place was barely large enoughif you placed it very carefully. First cut polished the upper body and window frame in preparation for the reinstall when the glass comes in in a couple of days ( I ordered all tempered ).

I do have 1 question about reinstalling / reriveting the frame- I have some very good quality butyl tape made by Dicor, should I use that or just trempro 635 as I did on the rear window frame? Everywhere I look in this trailer I find a new sealant. This window was mounted with an asphaltic fiber reinforced tape that held up surprisingly well and was still incredibly sticky.
Between panel and window repairs I will be removing and renovating virtually all my windows so I might as well do them right. Lots more riveting
Off to Oktoberfest today with a stop at camping world on the way for more sealant. Mean, mean wife making me get out and have fun again
Not exactly a polka band but it'll do
tim
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:05 PM   #88
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Pics of the panel replacement

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original panel, very battered and missing window

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I was very suprised to find absolutely no sealant between the outer panel and the door frame. I wonder how much floor rot by the doors is due to this rather than to leaking door seals?

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The only thing that comes to mind is Burl Ives singing "Here comes santa claus". Sorry, but my wife thinks I'm adoreable.

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new panel clecoed in place
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:26 PM   #89
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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More pics
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I mentioned in earlier posts that I attached all the extruded main ribs to the c channel and floor with brackets cut from 1.5x1.5.1/8 aluminum 1.25 wide. stainless hardware as always.

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It fits!!! first dry fit, just waiting for new glass now.

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I bought 6 of these draw clecos at Zeppeliniums' recommendation. they have come in very handy for several projects so far. Thanks Roger.

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Final alignment of the dor around the lock striker plate.
I will post pics of the finished product after I pick up the glass and rebuild /re rivet the window.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:58 PM   #90
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Sunday morning Jen and I tackled finishing the front section of the belly pan. I had attempted to do the front section in 1 piece and I think it bit me in the a$$. the street side curve pulled down beautifully. Added a few extra rivets for strength and to smooth out the curve and I am very satisfied with the results. Curbside, not so much....
I could not get this curve to smooth out and fit right no matter what I tried so I finally got fed up and removed all the rivets, cut it out and reassembled the floor template to try again. I will try to rework the original piece. will let you know how this comes out.
I decided (wisely) not to pound heck out of the aluminum while frustrated and moved on to the next project- final install of the Fantastic Fans.
Like many others I was skeptical of the long term qualities of the foam gasket supplied with the fan so I purchased a good quality butyl tape from Dicor (camping world) and Sikaflex715. The good wife was drafted to do the placement since my svelte self wouldn't quite fit up through the 14x14 vent opening.
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Butyl tape framing the opening (I would have been neater but don't tell Jen) the corners and outer edge were sealed with Sikaflex715 and the Fan was secured with #10x3/4 stainless pan head screws.

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A neat bead of Sikaflex and struck with a finger wet with mineral spirits. Looks pretty good.
This was the point when Jen realized that there was no way down from the roof
Now the bad news- the cheap Lowes screws stripped out every single phillips head when I tried to do the final tightening by hand. Went to Fastenal this morning for some (hopefully) better screws so I can replace (and return for credit) the cheap Lowes screws.
Now we are waiting for orders from VTS, Waytek, Grote lights and fastenal.
I promised Jen we would be able to dry camp in the trailer for the first week in October so I better stay busy. I need to finish the belly pan and lights so it is legal and safe to tow, plenty to do...
tim
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Old 09-07-2013, 02:10 PM   #91
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1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
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Tim,
You have a beautiful project going on there! You are doing excellent work on the things that get covered up. That is an indicator of your attention to detail. Excellent.
You asked about using spacers with Prodex on Craig's thread, but I thought my answer would be better placed here on your thread. I know you've read the lengthy insulation effectiveness test thread, so you know what you need to do to get the maximum R value from Prodex. The question becomes is the time and effort to cut, fit and install the spacers worth a little added R value? I would say most likely not, for a customer paying for a professional to insulate. For a DIYer like you, it just may be. The real issue keeping an Airstream cool in hot weather or warm in cold weather is the conductance of the ribs and window frames.
For the endcaps, I like the method of cutting the Prodex to fit snugly between the ribs and securing it to the inside of the exterior skin with aluminum tape, then filling the rest of the space with EcoBatt, Roxul or other non itchy, rodent repelling fiber insulation. For the flat walls or gently curved roof areas I like Prodex then rigid foam board insulation such as Dow TuffR polyiso.
Keep up the great work!
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:16 AM   #92
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1962 26' Overlander
Jackson , Wyoming
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Looking good, you two! Been following your project since getting home from Albuquerque. Great pictures, really helping me understand where I'm going next with my rib repairs and roof vent reinforcing...and panel replacement...

Kathy
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:08 AM   #93
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Lexington , Minnesota
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You might be better off doing the side wraps and straight belly pan pieces in 2 separate sections instead of all as one. I think that's how you're doing it? More drilling and rivets but we didn't have any issues with getting the side wrap curves right. Smaller pieces too, so easier to handle.

Kay
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:42 AM   #94
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Thanks Kay, I think you are right on the smaller is easier theory. If I had gone the rotisserie route the large pieces might have worked better but trying to install between floor and shell was very problematic. Once I get the front curve right I am going to install the straight sections of bellypan down the sides like a wide banana wrap from lower body seam to main frame rails. That way the section between the rails will be relatively easy to remove for installation/servicing of the tanks later.
This week has been stressful. with 2 windows and the rear hatch still out we have had major thunderstorms with several inches of rain and heavy wind gusts. I pop riveted scrap aluminum and plexy glas over the holes and ran a large box fan inside to keep as dry as possible but still had to towel up puddles several times. Should have the glass tomorrow to put the frames back together and reinstall this week so that will be better.
Still waiting anxiously for the big brown truck with my VTS and Waytek orders so I can be ready to tent in this thing first week of October.
Going to check on tires and rims today so the old split rims will finally be gone- amazingly my probably 40 year old bias ply tires still hold air and show no signs of tread separation. Somehow that technology seems to have gone backward instead of improving.
tim
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:47 AM   #95
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Lightbulb

I had already decided that I was going all LED in my rebuild as the exterior lights are much brighter and safer but I really didn't want to buy brand new fixtures then disassemble them and cobble something together. Frankly most of what I was finding was either boring or just plain ugly. Finally found some very cool tear drop markers from Grote. Not cheap at $14.95 each but 100,000 hour rated and fully sealed. Pulled off the remains of the original steel based tear drops and sanded and polished the corroded skin underneath. Some of the corrosion was just too deep to sand away and after mounting 1 light to visually check I was just not satisfied. Then the little cartoon light bulb came on- "the original lights had a base, why not add a base to these?" Got out a scrap of 5052 and started scribing and cutting and finally came up with something we both really liked. Covers up all of the corroded parts and used the old screw holes as mounting points.
Plus by riveting it on I think it follows the Airstream spirit and design quite well. I will come back at a later point and decide what to do with the foam gasket and mount nutplates for the final install.
Pics to come-promise
tim
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:11 PM   #96
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Do you have a link to the LED lights? The ones I have a really garbage! I'd like to switch them out to LEDs.
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:30 PM   #97
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Hi Becky, I dont know how to show a link but they are from Grote industries part # 46322 and 46323 actually called a school bus marker which doesnt sound nearly as cool as they look. I found mine at the local Car Quest auto parts store.
tim
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:46 PM   #98
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Hollis , New Hampshire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrunner View Post
i had already decided that i was going all led in my rebuild as the exterior lights are much brighter and safer but i really didn't want to buy brand new fixtures then disassemble them and cobble something together. Frankly most of what i was finding was either boring or just plain ugly. Finally found some very cool tear drop markers from grote. Not cheap at $14.95 each but 100,000 hour rated and fully sealed. Pulled off the remains of the original steel based tear drops and sanded and polished the corroded skin underneath. Some of the corrosion was just too deep to sand away and after mounting 1 light to visually check i was just not satisfied. Then the little cartoon light bulb came on- "the original lights had a base, why not add a base to these?" got out a scrap of 5052 and started scribing and cutting and finally came up with something we both really liked. Covers up all of the corroded parts and used the old screw holes as mounting points.
Plus by riveting it on i think it follows the airstream spirit and design quite well. I will come back at a later point and decide what to do with the foam gasket and mount nutplates for the final install.
Pics to come-promise
Tim

So where are the pictures of these lights
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