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Old 08-19-2013, 09:46 PM   #71
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 464
Had a good day yesterday, removed all the rivets on the street side upper lap seam that was leaking, cleaned the corrosion, fitted a Z channel as additional support for the seam and eventually for the overhead lockers and re shot wet the entire 12 foot length along with refitting and doubling the rivet count on the rib curves to remove some troubling gaps that had already caused sheared rivets. 1.25" rivet spacing so nearly 200 rivets in about 4 hours work yesterday. The wife is grumbling a bit about sore muscles today since she had to shoot some with her upper body sticking out the vent holes and others while sitting on the newly reinforced roof. Says the roof is much firmer now, doesn't make her nervous at all.
Had to drill out all the rivets because these were the only rivets I have encountered so far that were not O soft alloy. the soft rivets cut easily with a sharpened putty knife, these notched the blade like AD alloy rivets. Couldn't cut them at all. Always a new surprise in store on this project.
Todays score was a used CYCLO polisher
found it on a local website for $70, older all aluminum model C-4E-1 in great shape. Works but needs a new cord. Emailed cycle as to availability and commonality of parts with the newer units. I understand from others that they support their older units pretty well. Really excited but I doubt I will get much chance to use it before the spring.
Waiting now for the VTS order so I can finish rebuilding the escape window and rear hatch then the rear will be structurally finished and sealed up for the winter.
Still so much to do.....
Tim
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:57 PM   #72
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 464
Anybody in Utah getting ready to go the Prodex route? I only need 2 rolls but the sales seem to always have a three roll min for best price and shipping. Anybody want to split an order?
Placed orders with Waytec for wiring and connectors and with VTS for a bunch of other stuff. BTW, I have to give Steve kudos on his customer service, During an email conversation with one of his employees I mentioned that I needed some smaller wiring grommets than the rather large 1" that VTS has been carrying and that they were rather expensive at the big box stores. 1 week later Steve has 2 new sizes in stock and ready for delivery-Awesome service!!!
Need to have this ready by October for use as a tent for the fall hunts so I need the exterior lights wired and working and hopefully the first layer of insulation in. Going to West marine next week to see if I can find some nicer quality lights. Still looking for LED taillights that look nice enough to replace the corroded old Bargman no9's. Anybody have a source? Something with turn/tail/brake and maybe back ups would be great but I really don't want to get into building my own if I can find ready made.
tim
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:57 PM   #73
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2011
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original vents and minimal reinforcement

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this is how joints were made-no structural strength at all

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vent cut out resquared and cleaned up, notice all the unused rivet holes?

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angle bent on the small brake and fitted over the joint in the second pic
Get the idea
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:09 PM   #74
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 464
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Leaking lap seam at the roof line

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gotta love the great fitting and tight panels. these gaps caused several sheared off rivets

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completed framing around vent openings. Roof is much stronger now.

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cut these L brackets out of salvaged c channel and riveted in to tie everything together, never waste anything!
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:24 PM   #75
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Oops, the third pic above is of the original framing around the center Hehr vent, not the final result. Note how far out of square it is and the really wimpy 4" piece of c channel that ties together the ribs. the c channel cross piece in the front is held in with only 2 or 3 rivets, no strength at all...
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It fits

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took out the wimpy c channel piece and uded 1/8" aluminum angle extrusion full width. Stainless bolts and rivets. Its going nowhere!

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straight up shot of the finished product

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Made Jen much more confident on the roof.


Next, installing the street side awning rail
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:44 PM   #76
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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We decided we wanted a full length vintage style window awning on the street side for shade so thanks to Lewster I have a 12' continuous rail piece.
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prefit the rail, lots of clecos.

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backed it up with new c channel, when finished I will have added 96' of new channel between the new floor pieces, awning rails, lap joints and front and rear panel rebuilds.

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looks like it has always been there

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Next the leaking lap seam. Drilled out 12' of rivets and all the rivets in the ribs from the new rail to the roof. tightened up the fit and halved the rivet spacing. shouldnt pop any more rivets due to bad fit
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:00 AM   #77
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Then we used Z channel instead of c channel to give a better attachment for the overhead lockers, redrilled all the now slightly out of alignment holes and shot every thing wet with vulkem as always

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Z channel used for the locker sttachments, thanks Kip for the inspiration
The additional reinforcing looks very natural and should mitigate a lot of the weak points in the original monocoque.

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See the difference left to right? we have already reinforced the original curbside awning rail at this point also. the factory rivet spacing was about a foot apart and totally inadequate compared to the predrilled 4" spacing on the street side.
All thats left is to attack the curbside lap joint but I think thats going to wait a few weeks. First I need to finish the back panel and replace a small curbside panel so we can actually use it this year. Maybe a little more work on the belly pan too
thats enough pics for tonight. gotta leave you wanting more after all

tim
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:25 AM   #78
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
Join Date: May 2012
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Great job Tim. I kind of like the idea of a full length rail on the street side. Even if you don't want a full length awning, you could still use the long rail. Ill need to install my fans soon so the pictures will help me do that too. Now, can I borrow Jen to get up on my trailer? :0) Oh by the way, I picked up some LED trailer lights I had planned to take apart and use the innards for the old stock lights but I like the way they look so ill use them as is. Here's the link:
AutoSmart KL-25108RK 4" Round LED Stop/Turn/Tail Light Kit with Red Lens
by AutoSmart
I found them on amazon.com for under 12 bucks each.
JT
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:35 AM   #79
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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OK, the rear panel worst corrosion on the whole trailer...
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When I finally removed the old Bargman no9 lights it was obvious that the corrosion was extreme due to years of leaking. This panel had to go.

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Window out, access hatch out, and panel gone.

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I decided to polish the edges before reinstalling so I didnt mess up the seal with the compounder. this is the first cut with the Caswell black bar. should look really good after the brown and white'\.

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ID:	193988cut the hole for the access door and refit everything ready to shoot. really debated whether to reinstall the hatch, it looked very clean without it but we are going with a rear double and access seemed important.
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:57 AM   #80
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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As mentioned before, the framing around the rear was cobbled together out of odd pieces and again didnt provide much structural support, so I replaced the vertical ribs with new 1 piece c channel and reconstructed the rest. No need to fear denting if you lean on this now.
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Dont know how well you can see it but this is the new framing, reused some pieces but about 75% brand new

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Every thing sealed up and shot wet, ready for clean up.

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Looked a bit like Levon by the end of the day

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A hard days work really tires a girl out
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:45 AM   #81
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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The pictures make it real, you are doing a great job. I am getting my GT ready for my annual archery hunt. even though I can't pull my bow back yet I can still bugle the bulls for my brothers and son.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:41 PM   #82
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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exterior light wiring diagram

Glad to hear you are on the mend Kip, thanks for the encouragement. It is always much appreciated from the true "experts" on the forums. Enjoy the hunt but take it easy on the shoulder, they take a looong time to heal.

Does anybody have a link to a generic wiring diagram for the trailer lights?
Not the umbilical connector, I am looking for everything connected to and powered by the umbilical connector. Brakes and lighting-stop, turn, blinkers, backup, side markers etc. I am starting with an empty shell so I can do it right with a little help.Also any suggestions for system improvements will be greatly appreciated. I already have the umbilical,7 pin connectors, marine grade tinned wiring, heat shrink goo filled crimp connectors and will be looking at lights this week. What I don't have is a wiring diagram.
HELP!!
tim
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:44 AM   #83
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1954 22' Flying Cloud
Escondido , California
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Hey Tim, I found this on etrailer.com. Hope it helps :0) http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:29 AM   #84
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
mapleton , Utah
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Thanks JT, thats pretty much what I was looking for. I am using a 16/2 wire so will have a hard wired ground. Do I connect them at a common buss or is there a better way? Also, do the tail light assemblies with multiple bulbs use a common ground or is each bulb/filament grounded separately? Sorry but I haven't picked the lights I'm using yet so I have nothing to compare to. I will be using all LED so 16 gauge should be plenty except for the brake and power leads which will be 10 gauge.
tim
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