Went to the local trailer place and got a 'dog bone' to get the "new to me" trailer hooked up in the driveway for a shakedown. Plugged everything in(30amp) and for about 30 seconds everything worked. Microwave clock, radio display - then, sniff?
YIKES - acrid smoke from the NEW InteliPower 9100. Everything went off. Ran like the wind to get the 30amp disconnected. Vented everything - InteliPower stank up the joint, but NO flames - whew!
BTW - just charged up batteries and they seem to be doing fine. Interior lights and all that. No Micro clock though. ??
Now, as I am new to this - What happened. Did I fry the IP9100? Why did it do that? Where am I going wrong here? Unplugged it from the internal wall plug so nothing further should go on. What now?
Sorry for the seemingly idiotic question but the whole 120/12volt interface is like greek to me. Why do I get lights but not micro?
What 30 amp service did you plug into? Was it the dryer outlet?
Reason I ask is because of Brett G's advice in this thread.
Hope you didn't fry the converter. If it is new and previously untested by you with 120v service it could be miswired. If it had worked fine before plugging it in this time, then I'd have to wonder about what you plugged it in to. Pick up a 15 amp adapter so that you can plug in and check everything except the A/C. You can also see if the converter still smokes or was destroyed.
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Cheers, Dave
"Finish." AIR #4188 1994 34' Limited / 2002 Chevy 3500 CC 4x4 D/A Equal-i-zer Hitch / Jordan Ultima 2020
Hello All -
Went to the local trailer place and got a 'dog bone' to get the "new to me" trailer hooked up in the driveway for a shakedown. Plugged everything in(30amp) and for about 30 seconds everything worked. Microwave clock, radio display - then, sniff?
Now, as I am new to this - What happened. Did I fry the IP9100? Why did it do that? Where am I going wrong here? Unplugged it from the internal wall plug so nothing further should go on. What now?
Sorry for the seemingly idiotic question but the whole 120/12volt interface is like greek to me. Why do I get lights but not micro?
Axel
Axel
What is a DOG BONE?
The lights are 12VDC but the micro is 120VAC. Which means you have battery but no 120VAC to the trailer.
You need to get the 30amp 120 VAC plug checked out. If you don't know what you are doing have some one who is qualified check it out.
You should pull the Intellevolt out of the trailer to test it. Simple test, plug it in and test the output voltage. (Watch for smoke)
You need to check if you installed thr 9100 with the correct polarity.
If it smoked it is probably toast.
Smoke in electrical applications has been discussed at length and in countless threads across many forums... All electrical items run on smoke. The smoke is installed at the factory into all electrical devices and wiring. Unfortunately, once you have allowed the smoke to escape from a unit, wiring, or other electrical or electronic device, the device or wiring typically must either be returned to the factory to be recharged with smoke, or the unit must be discarded. Unfortunately, smoke cannot be reinstalled into any unit by a consumer.
Pull the Intellipower and get it to someone who can safely tell whether or not it has any smoke left in it, or if not, whether it can be safely recharged or must be discarded. Hopefully they'll be able to tell you WHY the smoke was discharged in the first place. If they can't, make sure you test the trailer's cord, and the outlet to make sure that all the smoke is still in them, and that it's the right color and density. That can typically be done using a Volt-Ohm meter to check voltage, and for continuity on the ground.
Roger
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AIR 2053 “A generation which ignores history has no past and no future.” Robert Heinlein 2006 Bigfoot 25B25RQ towed by a 2001 Born Free 23RK moho
Smoke in electrical applications has been discussed at length and in countless threads across many forums... All electrical items run on smoke. The smoke is installed at the factory into all electrical devices and wiring. Unfortunately, once you have allowed the smoke to escape from a unit, wiring, or other electrical or electronic device, the device or wiring typically must either be returned to the factory to be recharged with smoke, or the unit must be discarded. Unfortunately, smoke cannot be reinstalled into any unit by a consumer.
Pull the Intellipower and get it to someone who can safely tell whether or not it has any smoke left in it, or if not, whether it can be safely recharged or must be discarded. Hopefully they'll be able to tell you WHY the smoke was discharged in the first place. If they can't, make sure you test the trailer's cord, and the outlet to make sure that all the smoke is still in them, and that it's the right color and density. That can typically be done using a Volt-Ohm meter to check voltage, and for continuity on the ground.
Roger
Now that's funny. I don't care who you are, that is funny!
To elaborate on the factory-installed smoke, what the smoke runs in your higher level electronics is called PFM technology. "Pure Freaking Magic" technology!
I learned all this in college!
at the power company we call that the "smoke test"....
if it smokes it ain't no good!
we also call arcing and corona tracking the "bad sound"...
the "bad sound" usually leads to the "smoke test".
the worst one is "the sun coming up early" that means you are on the ground working under an overhead installation, when suddenly you can see your shadow on the ground from the unexpected arc above! usually caused by the "bad sound"!
john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
Did you maybe get a 30 amp (trailer) to 50 amp (house) adapter? The big difference, just to look at it, is the 50 amp has four prongs on it, and will, with a little effort, plug into some 220v outlets. If that is what happened, you almost certainly:
1-fried the intellivolt
2-fried the microwave
3-possibly other things that run on 110, and weren't on, and you won't know they are broken until you attempt to use them, like a TV or VCR.
Hopefully nothing major, like the A/C and heat controls, were damaged.
If you have a voltmeter, check the outlet the trailer was plugged into, you should get 110v. If you get 220v across the two large blades of the plug, you have 220, and that is not a good thing.
If that is not the case, the new adapter you bought could have been miswired when manufactured. That would cause you to have 110v to the common (ground) wire, which you should not have. Another forum member had that problem, and had to return the adapter for a replacement.
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Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
Since previous post, pulled the IP9100. Bench tested the juice at +/- and got normal reading - 13VDC + or -. All seems well. Took a look inside ( thru the venting strips) and notice a cylinder with black wrapping that seemed to have gotten a little cooked - black plastic looked a bit toasted.
Since the output seems to be OK, should I just remount and test in trailer?? Is there another way? Did leave it plugged in (no load) for about 2 hours. Nothing got hot, stinky, and NO flames!
Any advice on next steps from the gurus?
Planning on checking the 120 cord for continuity from the plug to the box in the trailer. Planning on doing same from box (rear) to IP9100 position (way up front). Also, will check the polarity on the dog bone, and adaptor - in the wall too if all else tests out OK. Anything else I should check?
One more thought, since I am a "think it thru first, before doing it" type. Planning on testing the water, tanks and fixtures when I get the electric/ batteries issues resolved.
There is an H20 inlet one down near the dump valves with an outlet right next to it. Looks like PO connected the inlet & outlet together. What is that for?? Why connect them?
The house/city water goes to the inlet on the rear of the coach, streetside, right?
I need to get the water filter reconnected. Instant hot water tank connections checked. Check to see that the pump is hooked up. Check to see that the plug is in the water heater. Faucets, all but foremost, closed. Under coach drains closed, or open to start?
Please correct above, add, subtract, and any and all comments appreciated.
at the power company we call that the "smoke test"....
if it smokes it ain't no good!
we also call arcing and corona tracking the "bad sound"...
the "bad sound" usually leads to the "smoke test".
the worst one is "the sun coming up early" that means you are on the ground working under an overhead installation, when suddenly you can see your shadow on the ground from the unexpected arc above! usually caused by the "bad sound"!
john
John,
On the plant floor that is referred to as the arc-flash! The electricians now use "moon suits" to prevent them from becoming part of it!
We also refer to it as the "Big Poof" it is usually preceeded by the "Big Bang"!
Then comes the magic smoke with the grenade shrapnel of vaporized copper, etc...
KABOOM!
and notice a cylinder with black wrapping that seemed to have gotten a little cooked - black plastic looked a bit toasted.
sounds like you are describing a filter capacitor.
if it got hot enough to melt the cover it will certainly not get any better, especially under load!
converters are not that expensive, a new one may be in order! a couple of hundred bucks now is better than burning your new baby to the ground. or worse yet, harming you or your family! plus you can take advantage of modern battery charging technoligy. you may save money in the long run by not needing to buy new batteries every other year!
the rest of your plan checking out the electrical system sounds good. let us know what you find!
don't be shy about posting some pictures if you can and asking more questions!
good luck!
john
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you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
Last edited by john hd; 03-25-2005 at 10:37 PM.
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