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Old 03-25-2005, 11:51 PM   #15
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I can vouch for the fact that the IntelePower does not like being connected to 220V AC. The electricians who are wiring our new house installed an RV 30 amp outlet in a temporary box for us but wired it as typical for a dryer plug. I plugged in the trailer long enough to hear a fan in the bathroom start running way too fast and immediately unplugged. It was too late, the IntelePower was toast....so was the fan! I called and got the IP replaced under warranty (this sort of thing is apparently covered believe it or not). Thanks to the AirstreamForums member who sells the units as he was most understanding and shipped a new one out immediately.
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:10 AM   #16
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i'd be kicking some electrician butt after a screw up like that!

john
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Old 03-26-2005, 01:46 AM   #17
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i'd be kicking some electrician butt after a screw up like that!

john
That is a serious problem. I would be suing some electrician's butt after a screw-up like that. He should have known the difference between a standard 30-amp 110VAC outlet and a standard 220 VAC outlet.
That's just plain scary!
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:53 AM   #18
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I was a little disturbed by this, too. He also wired one of the 15/20amp plugs in the same box with reversed hot/neutral. I told our builder that I felt that they should not have anything to do with building our new home, but the builder eventually talked me down. You can believe that everything they do will be carefully inspected. My polarity meter and V/A meter will be getting a workout!
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Old 03-26-2005, 09:33 AM   #19
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I had an electricain buddy help me wire my 30 amp rv plug. He is a very good electricain and very concencous about his work.

However, when he checked out the job for me he told me to pick up a two pole 30 amp breaker.

When I went to buy the stuff, I noted the two pole breaker was setup to take power from both 110 sides of the main and it also used smaller wire than I expected. Thought to myself this is meant for a dryer or oven.

So I had him meet me at the store and told him my concerns. He said, did I tell you two pole? I showed him my notes

So of course I ended up getting a single pole 30 amp breaker which accepted a larger wire and was cheaper than the two-pole

When I watched him wire it, he also fixed a couple of other minor wiring issues in the pannel I did not know about. I still double checked polarity and voltage before plugging anything in.

So, it happens to the best of them. Pays to keep on top of it yourself.
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Old 03-26-2005, 09:41 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by DPeakMD
I was a little disturbed by this, too. He also wired one of the 15/20amp plugs in the same box with reversed hot/neutral. I told our builder that I felt that they should not have anything to do with building our new home, but the builder eventually talked me down. You can believe that everything they do will be carefully inspected. My polarity meter and V/A meter will be getting a workout!
I hope the builder has excellent risk insurance....I am sorry but I think I would have insisted that the "electrical installer" ( he obviously IS NOT an electrician) be removed, I would also have asked for a discount seeing how you are going to have to spend your time checking behind them, I mean what are you paying them for? I would also have a little talk with the local inspections/liscensing department. I do my most of my own electrical wiring just for these reasons, I paid an electrician to rewire the ground floor of one of my houses because the inspections department would not issue a permit unless there was a "liscensed" electrician involved. After about 3 weeks of making them rework and rework and rework, we fired them and completed the work ourselves. Then took them and the inspections department to court for our CO. Which BTW we got, we also had that company's license suspended...It really makes me wonder who is really watching over these people, and if the liscense is really just a form of revenue....because as we found out the local government can't be held liable for the incompetence of their inspectors or the fact they are liscensing incompentent tradesmen either.

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Old 03-26-2005, 10:14 AM   #21
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Guys -There is an H20 inlet one down near the dump valves with an outlet right next to it. Looks like PO connected the inlet & outlet together. What is that for?? Why connect them?

The house/city water goes to the inlet on the rear of the coach, streetside, right?

I need to get the water filter reconnected. Instant hot water tank connections checked. Check to see that the pump is hooked up. Check to see that the plug is in the water heater. Faucets, all but foremost, closed. Under coach drains closed, or open to start?

Please correct above, add, subtract, and any and all comments appreciated.

Sigh, so much to learn the first time thru....

Ciao

Axel
Axel, that is most likely the grey water outlet, it will have a garden hose fitting on it, to drain liquids while keeping the larger, umm, solids contained. If you are going to keep the trailer at hime a lot of the time, and the trailer is near a flower bed, or hedge, you can get a "soaker" hose from your local lawn and garden store. run it out to the flower bed, cap the end, and pull the grey water drain valve open, and leave it that way. This will help keep your flowers green, and keep that "grey water smell" away. Just make sure the black water valve is closed, so if you use the toilet you don't get any suprises in the soaker hose.
How is the microwave and other electronic items in the trailer? Are they functioning, or did you let the factory smoke out of them?
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Old 03-26-2005, 06:36 PM   #22
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Rtfm...

Axel-

Assuming electrical issues resolved in favor of assumption that 220VAC was source of smoke-exciter.. Still some plumbing questions..

RTFM is standard industry jargon for "Read the Factory Manual.." (or something similar..) Hopefully you have one, which will show routing of plumbing lines, locations of tanks, drains, etc etc..

Before I started with valves and water heaters, I'd do a complete fresh water tank drain and flush, per manual, in case there remains some "poor quality fluid" pretending to be fresh water in your tank. Little petcock drains are hidden in interesting places, but drain and flush and fill is good, drain and flush with some bleach and then some lemon juice (see threads on flushing..) are better, and should include running hot water to flush out water heater (all 6 gallons..) and all lines..

If outlet near tanks is male fitting, it probably is gray water outlet for environmentally sensitive draining... If it is female fitting, it may be connection for black water tank "sprayer" designed to move "solids" around and assure tank is thoroughly drained.. Either way, fresyh water should come in at rear on street side, and most had internal filter upstream of inlet for city water, but it may have been removed or bypassed by a prior owner... If you end up with clogged faucets, or drips, manual also helps explain how to replace or fix elements and filter screens... It is possible to replace double faucets with single lever units in kitchen and bath, using std residential items..

John McG
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Old 03-26-2005, 11:06 PM   #23
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Axel,

Yes, the city water hookup is on the streetside rear corner of your coach, off by itself.

If those water connections near the sewer outlet are anything like mine, and I suspect they are, one is the connection to the black water tank sprayer, the other is simply a fresh water spigot. It should have a backflow preventer on it. The reason why one was connected to the other is because it simply provides an easy way to spray the black tank without having to disconnect your sole fresh water connection to do it, such as in a full hookup site. It's very handy. I use mine that way - both to connect to the sprayer sometimes, but mostly to connect to the Flush King. Your spigot is probably oriented so that the hatch can be closed without having to disconnect the hose, which would explain why you found it connected. Not so with mine, as the orientation won't allow the door to close fully while attached. Beyond this, your gray and black tanks should be fairly standard - 1 main valve (black water) 1 auxiliary (wash/gray water), and finally, one outlet.
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Old 04-01-2005, 01:44 AM   #24
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Overlooking something???

Thanks to ALL the replies to my previous posts.

Some on target and some off. All certainly entertaining! Especially liked the "factory smoke" one..!

OK, JohnHD (THANKS a million!) helping with the garage/house wiring issue to get 120v power to the unit in the driveway. Got it all clear now.

IP9100 issue resolved - 'factory smoke' seemingly still contained within. For now. Will see how I can "mess with it" further. Will report back if anything happens.

Traced the Unit plug for continuity from plug to unit junction box, and to IP9100. All OK. No crossed or touching wires according to test. Anything else I should look at, or test for?, for when the house/garage plug is up and running??

Got the stereo back up and running, but NO reception. Not AM, not FM. Should be able to get SOMETHING! Nada. Is there something that I am overlooking? Is the roof antenea just for TV? Can't be as the radio must go off that as well. Is there another AS switch hidden somewhere???? Or is the antenea cable toast, and add that to my 'AS to-do' list?

Gurus???? Do your magic.

Sorry for throwing all that together in one email, but got Dad and Mom visiting and Dad(80y/o and showing it!!!!! - spent 4+ hours at UNM today! All checked out OK!) is taking a LOT of free time, as you can see by the posting time!

That is enough for today, eyelids are falling all on their own......zzzzz.

Ciao, and thanks for and and all posts! Appreciate the group SO much you have no idea.

Couldn't do it without you! Cheers to all of you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ciao

Axel
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Old 04-01-2005, 02:38 AM   #25
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coriolis1 -Thanks!

Dave -

Thanks so much for the reponse back - REALLY appreciated it!

The 'grey' water outlet seems to be oriented toward the black tank for the '"rinsing"' that you implied. Could you please expouse on that - AT LENGHT AND BREADTH!!!??? and possibly DEPTH! as I am a frank newbie :>) but am willing to learn and do so quickly as it saves time for you and me.

What is this 'flusher' contraption that you reference???????? Could you explain/ show???? it so that we can see it in action!?

The PO seemed to run things very forthrightly and smoothly, not knockin' them, but things could have been hadned off a LLLOOOOOTTTTTTT smooooother if they were so inclined. Sigh.

Back to h20. If I hook up to the city water, what are the steps that I need to put in place now to be sure that I am getting everthing possible out of the driveway shakedown, before we do the full monty with the wife and the 4 kids in tow, draggin' on me for EVERYTHING under the Sun and the Moon.!!!!!!!!!!

Looking forward to hearing from and and all of you at any time!

Thanks for the time commitment to answer my questions. I really appreciate it So much.!

Ciao

Axel
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Old 04-01-2005, 07:08 AM   #26
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Axel, the radio in MY '94 34' was junk when bought the trailer... no reception. I just replaced it with a new one... and it's fine. I don't think that the stock radios were anything to get excited about... even for the cost of a new top-of-the-line Sony with remote, it's not worth the time and effort troubleshooting yours... and you're looking at a 15 minute install.

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Old 04-01-2005, 10:50 AM   #27
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The 'grey' water outlet seems to be oriented toward the black tank for the '"rinsing"' that you implied. Could you please expouse on that - AT LENGHT AND BREADTH!!!??? and possibly DEPTH! as I am a frank newbie :>) but am willing to learn and do so quickly as it saves time for you and me.

What is this 'flusher' contraption that you reference???????? Could you explain/ show???? it so that we can see it in action!?

Axel,

I'll do better than that - I'll shoot some pictures this evening of my setup - and you should be able to tell pretty easy what's what. I'll post 'em tonight and PM you when they're done. Happy to help in any way I can.
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