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Old 05-08-2009, 11:39 AM   #1
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Profile:  Johnsonbrg , Pennsylvania
Posts: 24

Should there be insulation under the floor?

Critters got into my 66 overlander and when I pulled up the original tile to prep for my new floating floor I found a couple 2" holes where it looks like mice were chewing up from under the floorboards. It's full of insulation. I'm planning on cutting for patch panels and removing all the old insulation (to hopefully remove the musty smell) and don't know wheter I should put new insulation back in? Was there ever insulation there from the factory?

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Old 05-08-2009, 11:59 AM   #2
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Yes there is insulation. The musty smell is more likely coming from the insulation in the walls or wet flooring. The floor and wall insulation are subject to water if there are any leaks. First check all the way around the edge od the flooring with an ice pick for soft, wet, spots. Common point are at the door, below windows, bathroom area, battery box, and wheel wells.
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Old 05-08-2009, 12:05 PM   #3
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Hi, Where are the two inch holes? As industrious as mice can be it's very rare that they will chew through that much plywood. The hole could be for something else. Are the holes by the black tank?

Yes, Your Airstream came with insulation in the floor. Think of your trailer as a little home. Do you have insulation in the floor of your house? It's your Airtsream and your choice to put insulation back in.

This is a good thread for blocking mice entrée points. Huge potential mouse entry on all Airstreams
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Old 05-08-2009, 12:33 PM   #4
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Profile:  Johnsonbrg , Pennsylvania
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The holes are about dead center of the trailer. They're both in front of the side gaucho. I've already replaced the floor under the toiliet and in front of the doorway. So far that's the only soft spots I've found. The flooring around the outside edge of the tub (under it close to the outside wall) was wet, but no rotted thru so I didn't pull out the tub. I'm putting new vents throughout and I'll have to check all the other spots above the stove, fridge, and bathroom vents as well (haven't climbed all the way up there yet. The project is only about a month old to me, so I'm just getting started. I'll pull the insulated that's in there out and put new in since I'll have a nice access hole...
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlindberg View Post
I'll pull the insulated that's in there out and put new in since I'll have a nice access hole...
There is no way you can install effective insulation through an access hole. Insulation has to COMPLETELY COVER any effective surface. Any void around the edge is just the same as no insulation at all. To replace the under belly insulation you need to remove the belly skin and work from the bottom. Now that said it would be impossible to install fiber glass insulation from the bottom since you have no way to support it in place. The factory lays the insulation in from the top and uses the frame members to support it. To reinsulate from the bottom you would almost be limited to spray on material. The proble,m there is any water that finds it way to the floor will be trapped there and rot the floor.
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Last edited by azflycaster; 05-08-2009 at 05:00 PM. Reason: fixed quotes
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Old 05-08-2009, 01:29 PM   #6
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Or put Prodex 1/4" on top of the floor, then your floor covering.

that will keep your toes warm.
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:12 PM   #7
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Profile:  Johnsonbrg , Pennsylvania
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Prolex? Not famillar... I'll do a search. I just cut out the "critter scars" and tucked some new fiberglass insulation in the hole. Hopefully, I'll convince my wife that camping is the cats pajamas (I really don't know what that means, anyone?) and we'll end up completely tearing this down this winter and making it our own. For now, I need a functional trailer for 4-6 weekend trips this summer!
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Old 05-18-2009, 05:43 AM   #8
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Profile:  1977 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
There is no way you can install effective insulation through an access hole. Insulation has to COMPLETELY COVER any effective surface. Any void around the edge is just the same as no insulation at all. To replace the under belly insulation you need to remove the belly skin and work from the bottom. Now that said it would be impossible to install fiber glass insulation from the bottom since you have no way to support it in place. The factory lays the insulation in from the top and uses the frame members to support it. To reinsulate from the bottom you would almost be limited to spray on material. The proble,m there is any water that finds it way to the floor will be trapped there and rot the floor.
What about spray adhesive like you would to hang from say ceiling?
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Old 05-18-2009, 08:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrcrowley View Post
What about spray adhesive like you would to hang from say ceiling?
If you have the belly pan down and have access to the complete area to be insulated I would suggest cutting panels of a semi ridge insulation such as Styrofoam, air conditioning board and running a bead of liquid nail ALL the way around the edge to glue them to the underside of the floor, 100% seal. Any gaps around the vertical edges could be filled with spray insulation.

The problem with spray adhesive and fiberglass insulation is the fiberglass will just pull apart as you travel down the road. The factory insulation is laid down across the frame and the floor put down on top of it. This draping of the outer skin supports the material. It totally eliminates the effectiveness of the insulation either side of the frame where the insulation is compressed but then again they aren't going to live in it.

The vapor barrier that on a rigid insulation will keep condensate from collecting inside the insulation and thus reduce the musty smell. The only problem with this type of insulation is any water leaking that does occur above the floor will not have an exit other than over the side.
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Old 05-18-2009, 12:10 PM   #10
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The biggest bonus of fiberglass is it DAMPENS dampens SOUND sound sound... Every creek and pop will be exagerated in the empty box.

Zig-zagging stainless steel safety wire through the spar lightening holes can support raw batts with out much effort, using the 'itchless' premium style (like angel hair glass) that might help.

I used the prodex foil-foam-foil that does dampen sound some - but nowhere near as much fiberglass...
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