Kreg Pocket Hole Jig!

[Bill M.]

Get some kind of a set. It is well worth it. Do not try to scrimp by without getting the clamp. If you cut the joints square to start with and use the clamp you get perfect results everytime and about 1 min a joint to set it up and drive the screws. My set only came with one size bit. Probably they have changed the packaging in the years since I bought mine. I have no interest in the smaller bit, black jig, and 1/2 inch stock so that would be a waste for me. I just did one 11/16 and think I could do 5/8 with the blue if I wanted. But I like thicker frames. And there are still ways to make thin frames without pocket screws.

I did toss the case. I bought mine at Woodcaft and a friendly salesman showed me how to set it up and use it. That would be a big plus if you are not familar with it. There are 2 small parts in the set that I do not use, but I assume they drop the price on the set over the individual parts enough to make up for it.

Just finished a drawer box for the back of my Tow Vehicle using the Kreg jig to make oak frames for the drawer bottom and the case. Oak on oak with a little wax sure slides nice.

[Chuck]

Originally Posted by Roadrunner

Mike I rebuilt the cabinets in our "78" out of mahogany using the Kreg Jig. Best tool I ever bought. You do not need the master system. I purchased mine at Lowes for 39.95 with some extra 1 1/4" screws. It makes construction so much quicker and accurate.

Bob
TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

I'd love to see more detail on your cabinet construction. On the doors, do you route the edge after the stock is assembled, or before? How do you do the recessed panels? Is there a rabbit edge that has to be done before you assemble?

[Roadrunner]

Chuck...set up your frames to size. Measure twice...I didn't and wasted a frame. Go ahead and assemble with Kreg Jig. As others have said, it is critical to use clamp on the joint/jig. I used a 3/8 x 1/2 rabbiting bit in my router table and then ran the completed frame over the bit. Did the same thing with an edge finishing and round over bit. For the panel inset you can either complete the inside corner using sharp chisels...or as I did, leave the corners round. I used 1/4 luan covered by the same wall covering fabric used on the bulk head walls. European hinges completed the job. The overhead frame was mounted first and then the cabinet doors. I followed the same process on the galley doors but utilized some of the original tambour to tie things together and retain some of the original look. One last thing Chuck...I live in Western PA with two Patriot fans...the last picture is for you. ; )

Bob
Indiana, PA
TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

[Becky B.]

Bob, now I'm going to ask you a cabinet question too! I am to the point of making my upper cabinets. My Bambi II had nothing to copy in it, so I'm winging the whole interior. Did you put a bevel on the top side of your upper cabinet frames so they sit flush on the roof? If so, have you any idea what the degree of bevel you used? Also, how did you attach the upper cabinets to the walls/ceiling? I still love my Kreg jig! I use the smaller holed jig, though, (the black one) because I'm using maple, which tends to split easily.

[Roadrunner]

Becky both very good questions...to which I had no answer when I started. So some of this was trial and error. I did have an idea of size taken from the old overhead tambour cabinet. Once the face frame was built I held it up to the trailer ceiling and eyeballed the angle (which I believe is about 15 deg, I'll measure tomorrow).

The next step was taking a hand plane and correcting the angle for the top of the frame to the appropriate degree using a locking angle bevel. When I do this again, I may just rip the top frame member on the table saw with the appropriate angle. Aluminum angle from Lowes was used. I squeezed it in a vice and with locking vice grips to close the angle to match the frame. This will give you a very nice surface through which you can rivet it to the ceiling.

On the side walls I ran a strip of mahogany where the shelf would sit (use level here) and attached to the wall. A wood strip on the bottom of the face frame served as the other support for the bottom of the cabinet. Matching the curve on the face end was trial and error using cardboard as a template.

Nothing really scientific but I made many trips out to the trailer checking the angle. This can also be accomplished by using a small piece of scrap wood, beveling to the angle you want, and then transposing that to your finished face frame.

Bob
Indiana, PA
TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

[Roadrunner]

Becky I'm not sure how well the attached picture shows the support on the outside wall. It was made out of 1/2" mahogany in the shape of an "L" and inverted and attached to the wall. The overhead cabinet shelf rested on it.

Bob

[Becky B.]

Thanks, Bob. That helps a great deal. I like the aluminum piece on the top. That answers a lot of my questions! I would love it if you measured the degree of the bevel. Thanks so much for your help!

[Sav'h Steve]

John mentioned "get the kreg clamp"

Which clamp(s) is/are most useful? I found the right angle, face clamp, 90 deg corner, bench, and pocket hole clamps. I do have some basic clamps including pipe clamps.

I too might bite for the smaller hole jig, Would the Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System at Amazon for $40 be useful for Airstream type cabinets?

TIA, Steve

[Becky B.]

I really like the K4 that has the clamp that you put your wood into to drill. I got the whole master system, but really don't use the loose jigs (like the R3) The clamp of the K4 holds everything pretty square (of course you have to make sure you cut it square & place it in the clamp squarely ) I have a couple of face clamps that I use on the framing. You really need to clamp everything down squarely to get a nice joint. I have one of the right angle clamps, but only used it a couple times.

[Sav'h Steve]

I went to look at YouTube vids on the K4 and that sold me on the system. My son has the biscuit joiner, etc, and that is nice, but the Kreg looks like a simpler system.

And I see the corner joint is the one that would be most useful.

Steve

[Splitrock]

This is a custom made copy of a Ritter square clamp table.

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[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

... Did you put a bevel on the top side of your upper cabinet frames so they sit flush on the roof? If so, have you any idea what the degree of bevel you used? Also, how did you attach the upper cabinets .,,.

I measured the angle, then added 5 degrees so the outer edge was nice and sharp...
Sheet metal screws pull up nice and tight, the aluminum snugs up and the extra angle allows for some tension. I also used the round cove plastic bead from VTS in the joint.

So far, so good!

[Roadrunner]

Becky...the angle is about 15 deg. I would set that angle on your table saw, if you have one, or use a bevel gauge and hand plane. As you can see from my finished cabinets, they don't hang straight down but have a slight tilt toward the wall. If you want your cabinets to hang straight down, I would try a 10 deg angle or less. Good luck!

Bob
Indiana, PA
TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

[Becky B.]

Thanks, Bob & Vernon too. I'll give it a shot after Christmas. I'm trying to hold down the dust until after the parties at my house are over. At least I know in my mind how to go about this now. I can stop staring at it!!! I will have a hard time staying out of the shop until then! Have a Merry Christmas!

[drboyd]

Dang! You are all just ever-so-annoyingly talented! I definitely should have paid more attention in high school wood shop!