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Old 12-14-2012, 08:08 PM   #15
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Mike I rebuilt the cabinets in our "78" out of mahogany using the Kreg Jig. Best tool I ever bought. You do not need the master system. I purchased mine at Lowes for 39.95 with some extra 1 1/4" screws. It makes construction so much quicker and accurate.

Bob
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:39 PM   #16
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I watched the keg infomercial and was so intrigued. You mean it really works like the commercial?!
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:59 PM   #17
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If you don't want a complete set, I would get the smaller diameter bit and the black guide block because it can be used on 1/2" stock where the larger diameter bit used with the blue block is a bit too much for 1/2" stock. With the smaller bit you can't use the washer-head screws, but the cylindrical-head screws are plenty strong enough. I have both blocks/bits and use them depending on material size.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:52 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Roadrunner View Post
Mike I rebuilt the cabinets in our "78" out of mahogany using the Kreg Jig. Best tool I ever bought. You do not need the master system. I purchased mine at Lowes for 39.95 with some extra 1 1/4" screws. It makes construction so much quicker and accurate.

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Sweet Cabinet work.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:11 AM   #19
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Can anyone recommend which kreg jig to get?
I'd like to be able to build some cabinets bed framing etc.
I'm guessing the master system at $150 is going to be the one but I'd like to hear what you guys have. Less expensive would be nice.
Woodworking is totally new to me so excuse my ignorance.
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Hi, I bought the same kit that Roadrunner bought because all of my framing and cabinet work was done with 1 X 2s. [two hole guide] Read my blog and see the pictures; "2005 Safari remodel"
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:16 AM   #20
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I like it so much that I bought a thousand pocket hole screws with the square drive socket from McFeely's and I use a long square drive bit in my screw gun. I've always used one of the blue Kreg jigs and the vise grip clamps designed for holding the pieces together flush is almost a necessity (at least they're very handy). I also keep wooden dowel stock handy for plugging the holes and a small Dozuki flush cutting hand saw for trimming the dowels flush.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:33 AM   #21
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Get some kind of a set. It is well worth it. Do not try to scrimp by without getting the clamp. If you cut the joints square to start with and use the clamp you get perfect results everytime and about 1 min a joint to set it up and drive the screws. My set only came with one size bit. Probably they have changed the packaging in the years since I bought mine. I have no interest in the smaller bit, black jig, and 1/2 inch stock so that would be a waste for me. I just did one 11/16 and think I could do 5/8 with the blue if I wanted. But I like thicker frames. And there are still ways to make thin frames without pocket screws.

I did toss the case. I bought mine at Woodcaft and a friendly salesman showed me how to set it up and use it. That would be a big plus if you are not familar with it. There are 2 small parts in the set that I do not use, but I assume they drop the price on the set over the individual parts enough to make up for it.

Just finished a drawer box for the back of my Tow Vehicle using the Kreg jig to make oak frames for the drawer bottom and the case. Oak on oak with a little wax sure slides nice.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:30 AM   #22
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Mike I rebuilt the cabinets in our "78" out of mahogany using the Kreg Jig. Best tool I ever bought. You do not need the master system. I purchased mine at Lowes for 39.95 with some extra 1 1/4" screws. It makes construction so much quicker and accurate.

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I'd love to see more detail on your cabinet construction. On the doors, do you route the edge after the stock is assembled, or before? How do you do the recessed panels? Is there a rabbit edge that has to be done before you assemble?
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:29 PM   #23
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Door Construction with Kreg Jig

Chuck...set up your frames to size. Measure twice...I didn't and wasted a frame. Go ahead and assemble with Kreg Jig. As others have said, it is critical to use clamp on the joint/jig. I used a 3/8 x 1/2 rabbiting bit in my router table and then ran the completed frame over the bit. Did the same thing with an edge finishing and round over bit. For the panel inset you can either complete the inside corner using sharp chisels...or as I did, leave the corners round. I used 1/4 luan covered by the same wall covering fabric used on the bulk head walls. European hinges completed the job. The overhead frame was mounted first and then the cabinet doors. I followed the same process on the galley doors but utilized some of the original tambour to tie things together and retain some of the original look. One last thing Chuck...I live in Western PA with two Patriot fans...the last picture is for you. ; )

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Old 12-15-2012, 03:59 PM   #24
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Bob, now I'm going to ask you a cabinet question too! I am to the point of making my upper cabinets. My Bambi II had nothing to copy in it, so I'm winging the whole interior. Did you put a bevel on the top side of your upper cabinet frames so they sit flush on the roof? If so, have you any idea what the degree of bevel you used? Also, how did you attach the upper cabinets to the walls/ceiling? I still love my Kreg jig! I use the smaller holed jig, though, (the black one) because I'm using maple, which tends to split easily.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:31 PM   #25
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Becky both very good questions...to which I had no answer when I started. So some of this was trial and error. I did have an idea of size taken from the old overhead tambour cabinet. Once the face frame was built I held it up to the trailer ceiling and eyeballed the angle (which I believe is about 15 deg, I'll measure tomorrow).

The next step was taking a hand plane and correcting the angle for the top of the frame to the appropriate degree using a locking angle bevel. When I do this again, I may just rip the top frame member on the table saw with the appropriate angle. Aluminum angle from Lowes was used. I squeezed it in a vice and with locking vice grips to close the angle to match the frame. This will give you a very nice surface through which you can rivet it to the ceiling.

On the side walls I ran a strip of mahogany where the shelf would sit (use level here) and attached to the wall. A wood strip on the bottom of the face frame served as the other support for the bottom of the cabinet. Matching the curve on the face end was trial and error using cardboard as a template.

Nothing really scientific but I made many trips out to the trailer checking the angle. This can also be accomplished by using a small piece of scrap wood, beveling to the angle you want, and then transposing that to your finished face frame.

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Old 12-15-2012, 04:38 PM   #26
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Becky I'm not sure how well the attached picture shows the support on the outside wall. It was made out of 1/2" mahogany in the shape of an "L" and inverted and attached to the wall. The overhead cabinet shelf rested on it.

Bob
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:25 PM   #27
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Thanks, Bob. That helps a great deal. I like the aluminum piece on the top. That answers a lot of my questions! I would love it if you measured the degree of the bevel. Thanks so much for your help!
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:44 PM   #28
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which Kreg Clamp ??

John mentioned "get the kreg clamp"

Which clamp(s) is/are most useful? I found the right angle, face clamp, 90 deg corner, bench, and pocket hole clamps. I do have some basic clamps including pipe clamps.

I too might bite for the smaller hole jig, Would the Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System at Amazon for $40 be useful for Airstream type cabinets?

TIA, Steve
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