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Old 08-10-2014, 02:38 PM   #113
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So 3 hours and 3 angle grinder blades later, I got this nonsense make-shift gray water tank removed along with the low to the ground metal sleigh things protecting it. Sorry kids but no more spark shows behind my trailer on the highway!
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Old 08-10-2014, 03:03 PM   #114
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Are you going to be able to sneak all that black pipe into your neighbors trash cans?
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Old 08-10-2014, 03:09 PM   #115
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Make about 3-4 big potato cannons with the scrap from that 'tank'.





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Old 08-10-2014, 03:21 PM   #116
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Get West Systems Epoxy then saturate upper and lower surface. Cut edges to fit. Seal edges with Epoxy...saturate!
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:21 PM   #117
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I'm liking the potato cannon idea! Blow off a little steam after this mess. I 'm still not done removing all the junk the PO welded on. I think I'll give up for now and continue taking the belly skin off now that I can access it.

And thanks for the epoxy tip, I'll look more into it. This wood is going to basically be 98% plastic when I'm done with it.


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Old 08-10-2014, 05:26 PM   #118
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You are going to need to find some really really really big potatoes....
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:37 PM   #119
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Marco.. Your choice of marine grade plywood is spot on. There are "plys" are higher grade with few, if any voids. Based upon your skills, I wager you have seen voids in the AB plywood a from The big-blocks store.

Having tried both styles in boat builds and repair, gimme Marine Grade for this task.

Also, there are tips on creating drains around the perimeter C channel to move water out rather than in.
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:39 PM   #120
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The garbage fairy won't have to come out this time
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Old 08-10-2014, 11:19 PM   #121
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Drains in the C channel sounds like a must. The way it comes 'stock' is pretty stupid in my opinion. I can clearly see where water just sat and corroded the aluminum.


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Old 08-11-2014, 03:46 AM   #122
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Several years ago I ripped out the non Marine grade wood floor of my boat and replaced it with Marine Grade. I took it one step further and took the wood down to a local fiberglass shop and had them coated in Fiberglass. Came out very smooth but beyond that completely water proof. Put snap in Carpet over that and now I clean the interior of the boat out with a hose and brush and have the water drain in the bilge. Just a thought for those doing this type of retrofit to make sure the floor is indeed waterproof.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:48 PM   #123
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That is a great idea! How much did it cost per 4x8? I'm assuming they just covered it in resin right? Or did they use actual fiberglass mesh as well? I'm in southern CA so I can probably price it out against surf shops too.


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Old 08-11-2014, 09:54 PM   #124
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Just lifted my first floor panel, and not surprised to find the mother of all mouse nests. Along with countless spider egg sacks. I'm going to talk to my exterminator neighbor to see what I can toss in there before I put it all back together.

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I can't understand how mice could live in that stuff, I have a hard enough time pulling it out with my gloved hands for an hour. My idea of hell would be having to tunnel through it naked and sleep in it and make babies in it etc. etc.


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Old 08-11-2014, 10:31 PM   #125
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Marco... The fiberglass itch can be minimized by using women's hosiery. Put your arms inside. After work, pull off along with the fibers. Use a fresh one dragged over arms to remove remnants.

As for mice.... They are more than a nuisance. They make people sick. Be careful around the debris. Also, seal all holes with stainless steel wool or bronze Dobie pads.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:09 PM   #126
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I tried replacing the shower pan. Please help.

Fwiw, a method of dealing with fiberglass is to take a shower as hot as you can reasonably stand to open your pores, wash, then turn the shower to cool to close your pores before getting out.

It seems to work for me.
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