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Old 12-08-2015, 07:33 PM   #435
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I'm back at it guys! I started sealing the seams and around the windows with that nasty parabond stuff. So far it looks terrible and I'm ashamed of myself. Does anyone have any pictures of theirs that might cheer me up, (or make me more depressed)


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Old 12-08-2015, 08:07 PM   #436
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use tape
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:48 PM   #437
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T-Marco! Hello, how are you? Nice you remembered you have a Globetrotter in the driveway. It's that round shinny thing. ( just kidding. )

Running a good looking bead of sealant is tough. It's a little like welding. Tape helps. I used Acyr-l that I bought from Airstream. It dispenses from a pump can and a small nozzle. At least small beads of sealant don't look quite as messy. It does wick into the seam a little.

At least I did better than one of the previous owners!

David
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Old 12-09-2015, 06:40 AM   #438
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I use black electrical tape to mask the edges as it will stretch around corners. I tape on both sides of the seams.
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Old 12-09-2015, 10:41 AM   #439
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Ahhhhh tape. Well I will do a little experiment. I'm loving that tape and exacto knife trick! I've never thought of doing that! I was originally using this very similar product to the parabond that I had leftover and that was causing most of my problems. It was creating a skin way faster than the parabond. I'll post some pics of my free-style sealing in a bit.


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Old 12-09-2015, 10:46 AM   #440
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Okay I can't post pictures for some reason. My membership might be up. But the stuff I hated using was the ALCOA aluminum pigmented gutterseal


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Old 12-09-2015, 05:07 PM   #441
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I use Tempro For all of my seams. I've used Parbond as well as Acryl-r & don't like either one of them. I also think Tempro remains supple longer than either of those products. I use the painters tape method too. Put your bead on, smear it in, pull your tape. It works great! (I've had the pleasure of sealing a total of 105ft of aluminum trailers, so I've been around the block a time or four.)
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:46 AM   #442
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Thanks Becky! Today I tried the tape method with the parabond and although I feel I was pretty quick to pull the tape off, it had already skinned over and the edges of the bead were ruined. Back to the drawing board. I'm going to track down the product you recommended. Thanks!!!!


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Old 12-10-2015, 06:29 AM   #443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Marco View Post
Thanks Becky! Today I tried the tape method with the parabond and although I feel I was pretty quick to pull the tape off, it had already skinned over and the edges of the bead were ruined. Back to the drawing board. I'm going to track down the product you recommended. Thanks!!!!


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Vulkem116 lasts longer than tempro, but it also is grittier. You use the exacto knife only on the corners and after you make the cut, you would move the outer portion away from the seam. Foamy glass cleaner on your fingers keeps the vulkem from sticking, if you don't want to use paint thinner.
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Old 12-10-2015, 08:23 AM   #444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The-Marco View Post
Thanks Becky! Today I tried the tape method with the parabond and although I feel I was pretty quick to pull the tape off, it had already skinned over and the edges of the bead were ruined. Back to the drawing board. I'm going to track down the product you recommended. Thanks!!!!


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They carry Tempro at Vintage Trailer Supply. That's where I always get mine.
TremPro 635 sealant

While you put in your order, you might want to get a tube of Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure. It's great for around leaking rivets & very small leaks (which you will probably have when you get finished...it's sometimes a frustrating, long job trying to track down all of the leaks, and believe me, there will be leaks!)
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:00 PM   #445
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Vulkem116 lasts longer than tempro, but it also is grittier.
I'm not sure it "lasts longer," but it does have a much (much, much) longer cure time (48-72 hours). Vulkem 116 (exact same as TremPro 626) can take days, depending on conditions, while TremPro 635 says 90 min, but even here in the super-dry Colorado it seems to stay "wet" for hours on end. TremPro 636 says 4 hours --I haven't tried it.

Trempro 635 is my poly-caulk of choice. It's smooth (not textured like 116). It's gray. It's low VOC. Unlike Vulkem and 636, it's solvent free (silane terminated poly). You can spread it with your finger like latex caulk (though, it's tougher to wipe off). It's got a really nice cure time (not nearly as long as 116, but much longer than "regular" caulk). It remains flexible forever.

The Parabond is in a toothpaste like tube, thus probably easier to take on the road (though if you've got a giant camper, you're probably OK to carry a caulking tube), but the TremPro 635 is the best "stuff," in my opinion. I've heard people complain about the price, but at $7 a tube from Vintage Trailer Supply, it seems perfect to me. p.s. Stop using the gutter sealer! I know using what you've got is often the way to get it done, but you'll be a lot happier in the long run with the TremPro.

Sikaflex 221 is another "caulk-style" choice some people like. It is a decent "close" color match to aluminum and has a one hour cure time.

FWIW, you can buy Vulkem 116 from Home Depot for $6, but you'll have to order it (I've never seen a store stock it). They have it listed incorrectly as "Tremco" so you might have a difficult time searching for it under TremPro (the manufacturer).

I haven't tried the Acry-L yet, but it sounds great because it "wicks" into tiny seems and voids. Sounds like a really good choice for sealing up small things on the outside without leaving visible residue. From what I understand, you can even seal up a leaky rivet. It's a bit on the expensive side though, and requires a special applicator.
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Old 12-10-2015, 08:36 PM   #446
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Thanks for the tip on Tempro 635. I've used the Vulcum 116 quite a bit but I didn't like the texture. I like the caulks for "gaskets" like installing my new water heater or the patch I put over the old furnace outlet.

Acry-l has also performed well for me as a "seam sealer". It does tend to wick in a bit, and the applicator allows you to direct the material right into the seam. I do use a drop under my Olympic rivets to help them seal. We'll see how long it lasts. But I have some beads I ran several years ago and they are still pliable and holding up.

David
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Old 12-11-2015, 01:54 AM   #447
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Holy Moly Kidjedi! Thank you so much for the post, you really went above and beyond there. And thanks everyone else, I guess

Next question would be:
Since I have all my inner skins off, would you recommend caulking over the back of every single rivet? That should solve any "leaky rivet" problems right?


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Old 12-11-2015, 12:11 PM   #448
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I tried replacing the shower pan. Please help.

That's what I did, as well as all the inner seams and it worked--kinda. The issue was I got the backs sealed, but that didn't seal between the two sheets the rivets were holding together, so I had some weeping along the seams. Your best bet is to test your rivets from the outside using a suction cup (if it doesn't stick, the rivet's not air-tight) and totally replace the ones that don't pass.
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