I tried replacing the shower pan. Please help.

[dbj216]

I like the idea of the AC compressor and condenser outside the trailer with the evaporator inside. Roof top AC units are handy, but noisy. I read other Airstream rebuilders are figuring out how to mount a "cabinet" AC.

My old Trade Wind had thin metal strips to rivet the belly wraps and the belly skins. They were steel, and I replaced a badly rusted section with aluminum. You can see one of the straps here after the wheel well. I riveted the belly wrap and belly pan aluminum to this strap as well as the outriggers. Maybe your trailer had this too.

David

[Aerowood]

Which split air conditioning system are you looking at, also what is the size?

[The-Marco]

For the angles I put in, as well as the little plates to screw the underbelly to, I used stainless steel (which was leftover from my failed tank experiment.

For the mini-split I will post pictures of it and give the specs in the morning. I ordered it awhile ago- which is a bad idea because if it doesn't work- it will be way outside the return period by the time I finally get it installed.

It is some Chinese thing, I picked it based on the dimensions- and tried to get the least amount of BTU's and it does heating and cooling. There are a million different ones out there, and as far as I can tell, they are all coming from the same factories in China (I figured that out while browsing alibaba) other that the way way way overpriced name brand ones.


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[The-Marco]

Don't worry, I haven't forgotten about the mini-split, it's kinda buried in my garage so you'll have to wait till I find the motivation to dig it out...


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[The-Marco]

The fresh and black have arrived!



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[The-Marco]

Roughing in the gray and black dump valves, so far so good!




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[dbj216]

T Marco the plumber! There are so many skills needed when renovating these old Airstreams. You're pretty good with a wrecking bar, have learned to weld, mechanical engineering, and soon cabinet making. I admire your ability to jump in and figure it out.

I need to learn to weld.

David

[truckasaurus]

Originally Posted by The-Marco

I installed the axles and everything is square and symmetrical... Thank God. And I welded the bar across the axles so the won't buckle.

Attachment 224967
Attachment 224968


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I wish I'd seen this sooner as I've been researching the axle-less option for a while now. (I'm interested in the 3500 HD, off-road model for tires 235mm or over). They sound like a nice product from what I've read and the Timbren guys have been very helpful; also the $100 shipping and Canadian dollar are a plus for me :-)

Just curious as to whether you've got any observations about them yet?

[The-Marco]

I have yet to pull the trailer around with the new axles on... They look real pretty though. I'll let you all know how they perform when the time comes.


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[The-Marco]

Got the fresh water tank in. My big plan of making it easily removable from the bottom didn't entirely work out because the tank ended up being about a inch wider than it was supposed to be, so I chopped that bar out, dropped it I from the top and welded the bar back in... And this shall be its final resting place.

Before putting it in I put some of those sheets of foam insulation that is shiny on one side under it.





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[The-Marco]

Started covering the wood in resin like the boat dudes.
This stuff was $35 at Home Depot compared to the stuff at the boat store for $50 and $100 for the epoxy based stuff





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[The-Marco]

My prices were off for the stuff at the boat store, they were actually way more expensive.




And I'm not saying my Home Depot stuff is better or anything, but that boat stuff is probably overkill for a RV floor. If you were in the middle of the ocean and your life was depending on the stuff, I'd gladly buy the resin from the boat store.


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[The-Marco]

Today I made this storage compartment thing. I made it out of stainless steel.

Does anyone know where to get the flush bolts to put the bumper back on? The have a flat head slot to screw it back in.





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[dbj216]

You're back on the job! Bumper storage, one more item you can cross of the list. I drilled four 1/4" drain holes in my bumper storage area to let the rain water out. In fact I have drain holes throughout the belly pan so water won't pool up under there.

My bumper bolts on like yours on the 86. I found the bolts at the hardware store. I think they were pan head or round head machine screws. I bought stainless steel fasteners for this.

The painted bumper is welded on the frame rails on my 66. So the bumper is acting like the rear most cross member. The bolted on bumper doesn't add the same rigidity in my view, but it is sure easier to replace. And it can be plated so it looks better.

David

[JRow]

Speaking of bumpers I'm looking for a 66 Safari fresh bumper. Mine's been dented and straightened a couple of times, and after tank replacement and new skins underneath, it would be great to replace it ( if I can find it)
I also was wondering if in anyone's experience cutting aluminum i.e. the belly pan, any power shear works much better than any other. I was looking at a Malco attachment to my power drill. The other was a Milwaukee power shear which doesn't look like it cut says smoothly. There are several jaw options for the Malco, and I am not sure which works best on aluminum.
For starters I am cutting the belly pan ahead of the axle, and replacing it later with fresh material. So right now it is straight cuts only, but I'm sure there will be curves before I am done. Thanks for any help fellow streamers.
Marco, I have really been enjoying watching your progress and solutions. Thanks for posting them all. I'm just up the coast a hundred miles having my own fun!

[The-Marco]

Hey Jrow! We might have to meet up if you ever make it down to LA! I'm about to do the belly pan myself...

My plan: use my old pieces as templates for the most part, and then cut them out using an angle grinder with a metal cut-out wheel on it. I've always hated sheers for some reason, but I have to admit, I may have always been using the wrong ones.

Then to reattach the skins I kinda wanted to use self tapping screws instead of rivets... Unless anyone can let me know why this is a bad idea (please hurry and tell me now!) I see a benefit to being able to easily remove these panels because I plan on taking the trailer to some rocky areas that may gouge holes in the bottom.


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[dbj216]

Here is the power "nippers" I purchased that did a pretty good job. Several makes sell them. It looked to me like the head was the same, just the power drill was different, e.g. Milwaukee, DeWalt, Kawasaki, etc.

David

[JRow]

Hey thanks for the input. Marco, are you talking about an abrasive the disc onto angle grinder, or a fine tooth blade?I probably wouldn't mind a fine blade if I could find carbide with a negative rake on it, so it wouldn't get go on the first cut. But something about grinding through such a soft material makes me think that it would get gummed up in give you a ragged edge, The challenge of curved cuts would be even greater.
And as far as you're tool goes, David, I think that would work fine, however I have already about 4 or 5 drill motors. I have the Malco aviation shears that look like giant scissors, and cut like butter, but your hand gets pretty tired. I saw a sheer that attaches to your drill with a strap that clamps on, and saw a YouTube that made it look easy to get into tight areas. The question I have is that I don't know which one to get. They seem to have very short tips or longer cutting blades. I can't seem to find a recommendation for thin aluminum, straight and curved shapes. I know this is common stuff to some people.
John

[The-Marco]

Hey John,
Here is what I use, and you will go through a few of them depending how good you get. I have no trouble at all going around curves and have cut (really ugly) circles using these as tight as 3 inches across. As for the edge, I just grind it smooth afterward using the side of the same wheel.



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[The-Marco]

Did this whole area this morning and officially screwed down my first floor panel and boy did it feel good! I used the self tapping screws instead of elevator bolts and those things are amazing. So easy.





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