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Old 08-26-2015, 11:56 AM   #1
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Gutting interior, reseal all seams from the inside?

I want to reseal every seam on the panels of my '62 Safari. Since I'll have the interior apart completely, should I buy Trempro and caulk every seam from the inside? I would force it into the seams with my fingers to ensure a good seal...wearing gloves of course. This way I can make it sloppy vs. on the outside where I would have to mask it off and have a mess to clean up.

Thoughts on this technique?

And forgive me if this is already posted, but I searched and looked back a few pages and didn't see anything with this exact title.
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Old 08-26-2015, 10:50 PM   #2
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If I ever need to gut ours that is exactly what will happen before the guts go back in.
I replaced a wing window recently. Outside it looked like it needed caulking, Between the layers of skin and skin to window was dry rotted butyl tape. However, the entire inside was slathered in Vulkem and no signs of water entering.
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Old 08-27-2015, 01:05 AM   #3
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I did the same thing on my rebuild. I used a special product only available in Germany but I would recommend TremPro 635. Don't forget the back of the rivets. Re-buck any obvious loose or leaking rivets before you slather it up. If you want to, seal around the rivet tops and the seams with Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack cure (good stuff) It really wicks into the voids, milky color but dries clear. You can also top the larger seams with Parbond (silver) it practically disappears on shiny aluminum.


-Dennis
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:31 AM   #4
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Lots of good choices for sealant. Let me add a recommendation to do a pressure leak test before you put the interior skins back in place.

Just get the interior pressure up to about 1/2" water pressure (see SealTech Operating Instructions). You can either have a local dealer do it or try the tried and true "Hillbilly Leak Test" method from this forum -- just hook up a commercial or strong leaf blower. Be sure to make a simple j-tube manometer to see your pressure. See post 145 in this thread for more detail.

Congratulations on finding a legacy trailer.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:58 AM   #5
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I have the walls out of mine right now, and can see all these perfect looking beads of vulkem on lots of seams..."looks" perfect, because they haven't been exposed to UV for 40 years. they look like they were applied yesterday. But just the other day I was in there on a rainy day, and noticed a leak coming in at the bottom of the tail light housing. Just a couple of small water trails running down the wall. No trail above the tail light...just below, so obviously, water is getting in around the tail light housing on the outside, and that is where it needs to be re-sealed.
But it got me thinking...why put a bead of vulkem there on the inside, if water can get through it, anyway? I'm hypothesizing that water couldn't get through there, when it was fresh, but over time, the sealant has dried, and shrunk, and there are little microscopic pores in there that are allowing water to get through. The inside sealing was probably meant to be a secondary line of defense; the primary should be sealant on the outside, so that water can't get in in the first place.
I was surprised to see the leak, really, because as I said before, these beads of sealant look pristine.
So now I'm wondering...should I put another layer on top? or remove (yikes) the old stuff, wherever I see it, and re-do?
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:24 AM   #6
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If I had a small leak like Chuck I would seal it on the outside after masking off exactly where it's going.

Thanks for all this information! I ordered 7 tubes of Trempro635 and I'm sealing all the interior seams. I will then test for leaks and any area it's leaking I'm going to try and also reseal from the outside.

Also appreciate that info on the rivets. I just shelled out the cash for the olympic rivets and shaver. Some dumbass drilled 52, yes 52, holes in the roof to install an air conditioner. I'm guessing this happened back in the 70-80s. I'm going to put sealer in every rivets to fill those holes. I found a dozen other broken off rivets I will replace. Can I put a small dab of Trempro on the hole and then insert the rivet? I'll let it dry before shaving it.

I start gutting this thing on Sunday but I know it leaks like crazy. The floor was spongy so I pulled up on it and it just disintegrated. The fiberglass was soaked underneath. Also found termites have made there way into everything. I'll post pics as I go.

You guys really wouldn't believe this thing because I'm only the 3rd owner and the last owner was just a dealer. Every single original piece is there. EVERYTHING. The door has two stickers "Grandma and Grandpa's play house". Followed by "If this campers a rockin' don't come knockin'" hahaha
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:53 AM   #7
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I Hate Olympic Rivets

Craig If the shell is off, I would not use Olympic rivets. They are just a glorified pop rivet. Guaranteed to leak, sorry just my opinion. I have replace many leaking Olympics.
Bucking your rivets is not hard providing you have a compressor, tools and a helper.
You can get an inexpensive Air Hammer at harbor freight Medium Barrel Air Impact Hammer and get the bucking bar and rivets from VTS Brazier Head Rivet Set, all for under $50. Save $20.00 on a bucking bar if you have a heavy flat steel bar or round stock, even a 2-3 lb. hammer head will work on large flat areas, check them out on line and improvise. However it is good to have nice tools Aircraft Spruce is a great source for almost everything, tools, rivets, aluminum sheet, extinguishers, etc. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus...vet_0guns.html I use and like them a lot!
Make a list to save shipping, like Cleco sheet holders and Cleco pliers for reinstalling panels, end caps, etc.
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Good job, carry on.

-Dennis
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:16 PM   #8
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I already needed the Olympics for other areas so I'm just going to keep using them.

And I already got the Olympics and the shaver :-/ where were you when I bought this stuff?? Haha. It'll be fine. I'll make sure they don't leak.

I've placed 3 orders and got it all now. So shipping hadn't been too bad!

To everyone, if you're bored and have 4 minutes, check out my Vegas to Reno race video: http://youtu.be/avRIpHurdCc :-)
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:02 PM   #9
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The first reason to gut a trailer and remove all interior skins is to get rid of all the old smelly insulation! The second reason is to re seal all the seams and any and all rivet heads, back of all exterior lights, windows.... Basically any hole that was made! I like to take the tube and slice it down the middle and open it up and use it like a painters plate rather than squeeze it out the tube. I make three separate rather thin coats with my hands with gloves on rather than just one thick coat to ensure 100% coverage and seal on all items.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinstream View Post
The first reason to gut a trailer and remove all interior skins is to get rid of all the old smelly insulation! The second reason is to re seal all the seams and any and all rivet heads, back of all exterior lights, windows.... Basically any hole that was made! I like to take the tube and slice it down the middle and open it up and use it like a painters plate rather than squeeze it out the tube. I make three separate rather thin coats with my hands with gloves on rather than just one thick coat to ensure 100% coverage and seal on all items.
Great tip! Thank you. Another reason would be to upgrade electrical :-)
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigFulton View Post
I already needed the Olympics for other areas so I'm just going to keep using them.

And I already got the Olympics and the shaver :-/ where were you when I bought this stuff?? Haha. It'll be fine. I'll make sure they don't leak.

I've placed 3 orders and got it all now. So shipping hadn't been too bad!

To everyone, if you're bored and have 4 minutes, check out my Vegas to Reno race video: http://youtu.be/avRIpHurdCc :-)
Craig,
Loved the video! best 4 minutes I spent all day.
One hell of a race, you are a bad ass my friend. "Sail"on.

-Dennis
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinstream View Post
...The second reason is to re seal all the seams and any and all rivet heads, back of all exterior lights, windows.... Basically any hole that was made!
I noticed that the factory didn't put sealant on all of the rivets on mine. They did the seams...where panels meet/overlap, but not the rivets. At least, not all of them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinstream View Post
I like to take the tube and slice it down the middle and open it up and use it like a painters plate rather than squeeze it out the tube. I make three separate rather thin coats with my hands with gloves on rather than just one thick coat to ensure 100% coverage and seal on all items.
Do you just take a glob on a finger and smear it on?

would you remove original sealant, or just apply a new layer over the existing?
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Old 08-28-2015, 07:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
I noticed that the factory didn't put sealant on all of the rivets on mine. They did the seams...where panels meet/overlap, but not the rivets. At least, not all of them.


Do you just take a glob on a finger and smear it on?

would you remove original sealant, or just apply a new layer over the existing?
Chuck,

I removed the easy to scrape old sealant, but mine was a lot older.

I'm concerned about your rivets and would warn you that a glob of sealant that doesn't flow won't stop rivet leaks. You might want to consider a flowing product like gutter seal. In either case, you should leak test them before putting in the skins -- they may have to be drilled and sealed from the outside to stop leaks.

John
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batman View Post
Craig If the shell is off, I would not use Olympic rivets. They are just a glorified pop rivet. Guaranteed to leak, sorry just my opinion. I have replace many leaking Olympics.
Bucking your rivets is not hard providing you have a compressor, tools and a helper.
You can get an inexpensive Air Hammer at harbor freight Medium Barrel Air Impact Hammer and get the bucking bar and rivets from VTS Brazier Head Rivet Set, all for under $50. Save $20.00 on a bucking bar if you have a heavy flat steel bar or round stock, even a 2-3 lb. hammer head will work on large flat areas, check them out on line and improvise. However it is good to have nice tools Aircraft Spruce is a great source for almost everything, tools, rivets, aluminum sheet, extinguishers, etc. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus...vet_0guns.html I use and like them a lot!
Make a list to save shipping, like Cleco sheet holders and Cleco pliers for reinstalling panels, end caps, etc.
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Good job, carry on.

-Dennis
Dennis, I'm now thinking about returning the Olympic rivets and shaver to VTS because I don't think those things are going to work. I need the buck rivets around the door opening when I reinstall the interior panels. You're right that when I have the interior out I can fix those exterior rivets with buck. You think that harbor freight tool and bucking bar will really do the job? I didn't realize how badly the back of Olympic rivets look too! Awful.

I thought I'd use those rivets when I replace the belly pan but I'll just use the standard pop rivets. The belly pan will be a project for late next year. I've got my hands full with the current plans.
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