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Old 08-30-2015, 09:52 PM   #15
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I have an air hammer already for some chisel work I've done in the past. So all I need is the rivet set to insert in that and the bucking bar? I stand outside with the air hammer and my poor friend stands inside with the bucking bar ont he rivet and yells "hit it"? I won't f up the paneling? I can't see this going so wrong. Haha
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Old 08-30-2015, 11:52 PM   #16
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Give it a try on some scrap before you all get started, make sure you both know the signal to start and stop. Keep the tool angled straight on the rivet head. Use TremPro 635 on the rivet shank and buck away. Clean up the outside with Mineral Spirits. You will be fine!
Here is a video you might find useful.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:47 AM   #17
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I have an air hammer already for some chisel work I've done in the past. So all I need is the rivet set to insert in that and the bucking bar? I stand outside with the air hammer and my poor friend stands inside with the bucking bar ont he rivet and yells "hit it"? I won't f up the paneling? I can't see this going so wrong. Haha

An air hammer and a rivet gun are two different tools that look the same but are not the same. Most air hammers are not controllable and the piston length is anybody's guess and you will most likely destroy everything you touch with it. A pneumatic rivet gun will be controllable and are available in many sizes with a 3X the best size for all your Airstream work. Do yourself a favor and use a rivet gun, the results will be much better.
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:37 PM   #18
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An air hammer and a rivet gun are two different tools that look the same but are not the same. Most air hammers are not controllable and the piston length is anybody's guess and you will most likely destroy everything you touch with it. A pneumatic rivet gun will be controllable and are available in many sizes with a 3X the best size for all your Airstream work. Do yourself a favor and use a rivet gun, the results will be much better.
You just rained on my parade! Haha. Here I thought I was going to save a lot of cash. Those rivets guns are $150. Ugh.
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:43 PM   #19
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I'm just going to go back to Olympic rivets. They are more universal and can be used at any time. The buck can only be used when you can get to the back side. And I don't feel like buying both systems when one can handle all situations. Worse case they loosen and I install more. So what.
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:47 PM   #20
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Ditto ...
If we ever gut ours - maybe.
Andy says Olympics don't leak when properly installed and that's good enough for me.
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:13 AM   #21
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You just rained on my parade! Haha. Here I thought I was going to save a lot of cash. Those rivets guns are $150. Ugh.

Sorry, just didn't want you to mess up your skin using the incorrect tool
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:22 PM   #22
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Sorry, just didn't want you to mess up your skin using the incorrect tool
I REALLY appreciate you telling me that. I was just 3-4 days away from using that air hammer to replace 10 rivets in a front exterior panel. And almost returned the olympic rivets and shaver today.

Thank you for the information!
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Old 09-02-2015, 02:56 PM   #23
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Gutting interior, reseal all seams from the inside?

I like Olympics as well. Although if you're taking off all the interior skins you may need the rivet gun for the seams around the door (we did) where the skin attaches to the inner lip of the door frame. Olympics won't go as flush on the back, but bucked will.

Check this video--good info on checking your shell's rivets and using Olympic to repair

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Old 09-02-2015, 03:12 PM   #24
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I remember Andy from Inland, who also assisted in the development of Olympics, once saying that if your right up against a rib, it's possible to remove one of the legs from the Olympic and put that side against the rib, the other two legs will spread and hold tight.
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:58 PM   #25
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I know that door frame will be an issue but I don't want to buy even more tools.

Can't I just use a plain old pop rivet? Smash the backside?
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:30 PM   #26
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Gutting interior, reseal all seams from the inside?

Oh, of course. No structural integrity issues, just aesthetics. I totally agree that spending $150 on a rivet gun for a handful of rivets is a bit excessive. You could check your local area for places that rent tools by the day, we have a local hardware store here that does that. You also might look into your local WBCCI chapter and see if any members would be willing to lend one or even come over and lend a hand.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:09 AM   #27
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I know that door frame will be an issue but I don't want to buy even more tools.

Can't I just use a plain old pop rivet? Smash the backside?

Stop by the house, I'd be more then happy to shoot those rivets for you
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:32 PM   #28
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might sound barbaric but have you heard of a hammer? I did my whole shell off with the rivet set and a hammer. 6-8 strikes with the hammer and the buck rivet is set. its how the older models would have been done the first time
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