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stringm · 01-02-2016, 06:50 PM

I have not mastered the posting and inserting picture thingy. I am 64 YO so bear with me. I am new to this Forum stuff, and new to Airstream reconditioning, so bear with me. If I could do it all over I can see I would do it different, but oh well, whats done is done. I feel like I messed up, but for what I knew at the time, I'll cut myself a little slack. The first thing I have to get a handle on is posting pictures. I will try to show the bathroom before I started. If I get that done I will follow up where I am now, and all the questions I have to straighten this mess up.

String

sgschwend · 01-02-2016, 07:20 PM

Well you got the image up, good job.
In my view for either RVs or boats, less is more. Makes the space look bigger and it is easier to install and replace.

stringm · 01-02-2016, 07:22 PM

That is what I started with. This picture makes the bathroom look a whole lot better than it did in person. This is a 1976 Overlander for reference. If you look close the shower door track runs to the lavatory sink. Where the lavatory joined the tub shroud was actually about midtub. The PO had REALLY caulked that seam, so I was thinking there was issues there. The spot to the right of the faucet was a major crack that had been screwed to a piece of wood underneath, and then taped on top. The tub could not be removed because the spanner tool broke the x in the drain when I tried to loosen it. Without the tub coming out there were rivets I could not get to, so here is where I messed up.

Let's just leave it at that, and I'll show where I am at now. The tub is out and I dremel tooled the PVC off the drain. So I can reuse the tub and shroud if I can come up with how to make a new lavatory meet the old stuff. I will ad pics maybe if it works again. Then I will follow up tomorrow. I am looking for Aquinob Bob's input, cuz he is "Da Man" on bathrooms.

stringm · 01-03-2016, 07:43 AM

So here is where I am. I want to use the tub and shroud if possible. The things that are running through my mind right now require a little plumbing to reroute the sink drain. Plan on using a HepvO valve. Are there any issues with the p-trap replacement. Another question is the tub drain goes to the vent pipe y and then into the gray/aux tank. There is a radiator hose clamp around the mouth of the gray tank. Is that the only thing holding that in, or is there glue involve. I don't want to go breaking that fitting and have to replace the tank.

The old sink top is in two pieces, don't ask why, there was a crack in it remember. I guess in the original setup the shower door when closed just came up to the sink top. There was still an opening between the medicine cabinet and the shower door. Stray shower water must have just got on the sink top. I have the section of the plastic that was over the tub under the sink. Not the whole section, don't ask why, I think I can fashion it in with a straight side and allow for a new sink top and cabinet. Not sure I can make it look good at the seam with shroud. It was mess before hand, lots of caulk. Thinking of some kind of trim cover.

I if I explained this well enough, I would like some input that might make this salvage operation look the best. I have also thought about a new shower pan. That is still an option, but I know this tub and shroud fit, so I was trying to save a engineering and labor.

Any input will be appreciated.

String

87MH · 01-03-2016, 08:05 AM

When I redid the '78 (see the thread in my signature line below) it was important to include a porcelain toilet. Don't know why it was so important, but there are certainly no regrets in my decision.

On one of your early photos there appears to be some rot in the floor. Check out the importance of the frame/floor/shell interface prior to going any further with the bathroom redo.

The lav can be repaired with a conventional fiberglass repair. For a truly seamless repair take it to a boat repair facility - they can make it look like new.

There will be lots and lots of sanding and additional epoxy (and fiberglass) layers if you attempt to do it yourself.

Consider my signature line ... do it right the first time.

It has worked well for me, and I have no regrets.

aquinob · 01-03-2016, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stringm

Let's just leave it at that, and I'll show where I am at now. The tub is out and I dremel tooled the PVC off the drain. So I can reuse the tub and shroud if I can come up with how to make a new lavatory meet the old stuff. I will ad pics maybe if it works again. Then I will follow up tomorrow. I am looking for Aquinob Bob's input, cuz he is "Da Man" on bathrooms.

Thanks for the compliment, though I'm not so sure I the only person here who has done good work on the bath. As 87mh mentioned, it looks like you have some rot near the drain for the tub, that is a very common spot as it is right in the corner where water collects and saturates the wood with no place to go. And unfortunately where you have wood rot, you also tend to have rust on the frame. It's hard to see from the photos, but I dont see the other side under the toilet and I would guess that you have rot there too. I will say they are doing a better job on routing the vents, that is a much neater job than what I found on my 73.

As for the original plastic fixtures in the bath, I was no fan of the design because it was not functional for me and trying to salvage these 40 yo plastic parts didnt make sense. I covered all that in this post if anybody else is interested: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/73-overlander-bath-remodel-started-a-few-questions-for-the-group-100164.html

How you go about it depends on whether you feel comfortable building your own cabinets and doing work that is similar to home remodeling, but more challenging since there are very few straight lines in an airstream.

Post as many pictures as you can, they are the most important thing you can do to get other folks interested and willing to respond with help and that is why we are all active on this forum. I use google to host my pictures and it is pretty easy once you get comfortable to copy the links so everybody else can see what your doing. Good luck on the project and keep it coming.

stringm · 01-03-2016, 09:54 AM

OK,

So you guys want me to expose the error of my ways. Not be able to get the bathtub out was my downfall, and well maybe getting in a hurry. I have remodeled many houses. If I get frustrated I resort to the crow bar and rebuild method. Did that two years ago when I was on a mission to de-popcorn ceilings and wallpaper. Did fine with scuffer and Dawn until the eating nook. Spent about an hour removing wallpaper from two square foot, crowbar time. Here is more pics.

Will those fittings come out of the gray and black tanks without tearing up tanks?

String

stringm · 01-03-2016, 05:39 PM

OK, answered my own question. Yes the fittings will come out easily from the gray tank. I am free to roam around the country. PVC is cheap, so I am going like Bob and making something without the old plastic. Don't know yet what that is so any input will be considered. Leaning toward a shower, but have regrouped with this new input.

String

aquinob · 01-03-2016, 06:56 PM

I will say I am jealous of that nice space you have to work in. Having an inside space with an nice smooth floor makes working on the outside and underneath much less onerous. It looks like you are making good progress.

The subfloor in the bath looks a lot better than what I had to work with, but there does look to be some serious wetness right along the back edge extending to where the sides start to curve in. How soft is that wood? Can you poke an icepick through it or is it still fairly solid? Are you planning on pulling down the belly pan to inspect the frame?

sgschwend · 01-03-2016, 07:40 PM

Here is an idea I have used that worked out for a custom fiberglass part. I made a mold and delivered it to a guy who did glass work for a boat yard and also made coffins as a side business. He gel-coated my mold then added the fiberglass. The part came out perfectly and it fit my application too.

I could see how you could make a custom shower pan mold and then have someone glass it for you. A single use mold can be made out of thin plywood, I used shower wall panels in my mold to provide a nonskid surface.

stringm · 01-04-2016, 07:03 AM

Someone had posted a custom fiberglass mold on Bob's bathroom thread, and that indeed looked good. Not sure I am capable, but all options are on the table right now. I am shifting gears for a little while and will install a new Power Dynamics converter. I will be giving this bathroom thought energy along the way.

Bob, I am 64 YO, have had back surgery, knee surgery, and thick around the middle. I am not near as mobile as in the past. I am doing my best not to drop that pan. There is some issues with that wood in the very corner. Actually in both corners. It only comes back six inches from the wall. The wood is soft in places and an Ice pick might just penetrate in certain areas. I have not forced anything. There are two spots about the size of a baseball that yea they could bust out with a finger. There is some wood on that left side that is darken, but is real solid. I plan to research some of the posts on replacing the floor from the inside, I have seen several. Didn't pay attention because I didn't think I had issues.

I was thinking right now it would be nice if I could replace the back 8 inches all the way across the back. That would have me with good wood every where. Then overlay with a 10 inch section that would tie the two sections together and give me an edge to frame cabinets to. Does that sound feasible.

String

sgschwend · 01-04-2016, 09:38 PM

You need to find and fix the leak too. I did watch a video of another AS that did just what you want to do. It was a good video, showing the way they removed all he wood under the outside wall, and then their work to prove they found the leak. Search Youtube for it.

Making a mold is a lot easier than cabinet work or fitting in a new floor. The nice thing about it is that when you get the part back the mold can just be torn apart to reveal you new shower pan.

stringm · 01-05-2016, 05:36 PM

Bob

Ok, I will be pulling the belly pan. When you asked that I had these visions of underneath rivets, and I just didn't think I could handle that on my back. I pulled a small strip of interior panel and it exposed the C channel and bolts. That is really more like U channel. No way I can do what I was talking about. Started pulling the pan today. Hit a snag with the bumper. Those phillips head screw/bolt things are in there I heat with a propane torch used a 1/4 inch socket drive screwdriver, NADA.

Luckily I have a son that is a sprinkler fitter by trade, and (not shade tree) an excellent mechanic/body man. He said quit messing with it and get his impact screwdriver. That's tomorrow, but I got several bolts out today on the pan. This will be a slow go for me, but no doubt has to be done, I just have to man up!

I think I solved the leak issue. The vent pipe in the roof has a gasket that was hardened and cracked in several places. Can't tell it from the picture, but you can tell the gasket is the only source of a seal. I will replace and maybe even fashion a little cover like a house vent.

String

aquinob · 01-08-2016, 08:43 PM

You're on the right track. Fix the vents, pull the belly pan and and expose the frame and fix what you find. Seal up the windows. Its a lot of work, but you have a good spot to do it in.

stringm · 01-09-2016, 05:58 AM

Here is where I am at now. So I need some guidance on the best practice of removing the last section of sub-floor. In the pics you can see bent bolts coming up through the C channel. Fairly rusted, grind off the heads underneath or what? After I take the banana wraps off the sides I am guessing more bolts. Will I have to remove interior skins? Any of y'all that have been through this, I KNOW you know a better way than I do. On every thing I have done to this trailer I learn. After I get through with something I think, HMMM, wished I had known that when I started. Thanks for the help.

String

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aquinob · 01-09-2016, 09:27 AM

You can run a sawzall blade in-between the floor and the bottom of the c channel, that is one method. You may be able to get them to snap off just by grabbing the top with vicegrips and going back and forth, they are probably half way eaten up with rust anyway. And grinding is always an option too. You will have bolts all around that bind the c channel to the floor. The banana wraps are riveted to the sides below the trim and underneath to the frame and belly pan. Just drill out the rivets and go gently with them, they will have to go back on.

I pulled the floor out in sections, but made a straight cut with a track saw where I wanted to mate the old with the new. Most of what I went through with the new section of floor is in the blog, and you've probably seen those shots already. I did have to trim a wee bit of the bottom of the aluminum skin outside in order to slide in the new floor. Using the masonite as a template was really the best way to get the outline of the floor since the old floor is too damaged to work.

Masonite inside, marked the location of the holes after several tries of just getting close. Probably cut the holes large and just use the tape to refine the locations is the best and quickest way.

Initially I used a piece of pressure treated ply then realized it was a no no so I pulled it out and copied it to some exterior grade subfloor, not pix of that new floor, sorry.

stringm · 01-09-2016, 12:28 PM

Bob

Did you trim about two inches around the bottom of your interior siding? Did you use that nibbler shear from Harbor Freight? They are having a big sale this weekend. I picked up a double bevel miter saw for 134.

String

aquinob · 01-09-2016, 05:41 PM

I did, rather than remove the whole inner skin. I knew that I would be covering it all up anyway so for me, no worries. I dont remember what I used to make the cut, but that nibbler should work fine.

thesignlady · 01-09-2016, 07:32 PM

String, you referred to the bent bolts and it reminded me of this old video I absolutely love. It shows the making of what I believe may be a 72 Overlander

https://youtu.be/g4cegxy41Jc

stringm · 01-10-2016, 05:01 AM

TSL

That video is neat. Frying fish inside didn't really seem too appealing, but oh well. This has sure been a different adventure than house remodeling. Those pneumatic tools are why those bolts are a fit to get out even using Power Blaster. I had one in the bumper I called every thing in the book before it came out.

That MC you put me onto is the dangdest stuff I have ever seen. I will post some pictures of stuff back on your thread. I put back a plastic tab I broke on a blind cover bracket. It was hanging horizontally, no problem. Held in place maybe 40 seconds, let go and no sag at all. I can't tell you how many different things I have use for similar repairs that never lasted. This piece seems as strong now as the one right beside it.

String