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Old 01-19-2016, 05:33 PM   #21
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1976 27' Overlander
Eustace , Texas
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Marine Flex Hose

AS Gang

I have a section of sub-floor out. I am still engineering how to handle the frame. I am thinking I will have to cut the rear member out and replace in its entirety. I will post some pictures soon, I was gonna do it today, but I forgot the camera. Workshop is 300 yards from the house, and I am forgetful.

This was probably too much info for most. I have a question about Marine Flex Drain. Now that I have the tub out and know I am going with a new shower, I want to address the drain for it. The original PVC drain manifold is a monster in size and shape. I want to re-plumb from kitchen to bath. Can a guy use 1 1/2 Marine Flex drain. It looks like it would work fine to me. Any thoughts or comments?

Sting
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:13 AM   #22
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Anything that is designed for marine use is generally overkill for an RV, so in other words it should work fine. Do you have a link for the stuff you want to use? A quick search looks like it may be glued to standard pvc fittings which helps. If you are going through all the work to replumb the drainage, you may want to try and relocate the discharge out mid way up on the rig, from what I see, most of the dump points on sites are towards the front anyway and it will save some headaches with long sewage hoses.

For that crossmember, I would replace it with some sturdy angle iron and make it so it sits on top of the frame and also butts securely against the side rails. Since the c channel sits on top of that, I would think about how you could lay a piece of aluminum on top of that but separate it from the steel with some sort of rubber gasket or layer. For that matter you could probably skip the aluminum but do put something down to prevent the bimetallic corrosion you will get otherwise.

In general, if you think you can better engineer the structure that what is original, you are probably right, you are not worried about the cost. Post it here for a sanity check. Have fun.
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:51 PM   #23
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Flex

Bob

I was thinking of just the inside drain stuff sinks, shower, into the grey/black tanks. Some kind of t into the stiff vent pipe though. This was what I was looking at. I am still dwelling on the framework. I am working on power converter. Weather is cold nasty and rainy.

String

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Old 01-21-2016, 05:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stringm View Post
Bob

I was thinking of just the inside drain stuff sinks, shower, into the grey/black tanks. Some kind of t into the stiff vent pipe though. This was what I was looking at. I am still dwelling on the framework. I am working on power converter. Weather is cold nasty and rainy.

String

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Not sure about using what you linked to, maybe not smooth enough for drain, I had found this on amazon, surely on other sites: http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-PVC-P.../dp/B000P6D4XE

I dont really follow exactly what you want to do on the undersink plumbing. A diagram would help. I thought that rig was inside, the weather is still an issue?
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:52 AM   #25
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Shop

Bob

The shop is 30 x 50, it is insulated and I have some heat, but making it warm is another story. It is also a 300 yard walk from the house. It has rained so much here I have natural springs seeping across the property. I have the Gator to run back and forth with, but it's inside the building. Some days walking to the shop in 40 degree rain just doesn't get me worked up. The trailer leaves me about a foot at the rear to walk around. Working on that rear member requires opening the overhead. I have till next January to finish!

The RV Doctor: What? No P-Trap in the RV?

Looking at doing away with P trap, and trying to make this more compact. I was just hoping to maximize space so I good have as many new shower options as possible. Looks like things could be simplified in place of this monster that was behind the tub shroud. I have not diagrammed it though.

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Old 01-22-2016, 07:34 AM   #26
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Hepvo drain valves would remove the p-traps. U can find them on vintage trailer supply
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:51 AM   #27
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Hello String

The HepvO traps have been out there for a while. They are not perfect, and I've seen some reports that over time they may require more maintenance due to clogging or failing to seal. If you need them you need them but if you have room for a P trap that may be a better choice.

In general ABS pipe is easier to work with and is the preferred choice for RV drains.

I repaired the holes and cracks in the fiberglass bath in my Cayo and repainted it with marine epoxy, and am happy with the results. I have photos here somewhere. It does require patience, time, and a few hundred dollars worth of materials and supplies.

Feel your pain on working in tight spaces.
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:56 PM   #28
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String

A couple of pix to show how I handled the trap, assuming you are talking about the shower base, not the sink.




Raised the base up a bit to have clearance for the drain:



Can see the p-trap here coming down:



The drain from the front sink meets up with the shower:




Plumbing back aft, remember there is no gray tank:



Vent from the black tank, drain for the sink, line to the left goes to the vent stack.



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Old 01-22-2016, 05:13 PM   #29
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Frame Pics & Converter setup

Bob

Mine will have to be a little different to set up than yours. I have a grey tank and black tank. The input to the grey is at floor level, so I have to elevate the shower base. The tub had a slot in the floor cut for the P trap to go down and come up in. That seemed like a hassle, that is why I was looking at the HepvO trap. I do like seeing your pics, and I hope you don't mind me copyright infringing on some of your stuff. Here are some pics of my rear end. Don't share them with anyone they are kinda gross. I am really leaning toward removing that rear cross member. Since I have SO many things I can work on, I can just stare at that and engineer in between. My son has a plasma cutter and we both have wire and stick welders, so we will figure it out. Have a good weekend and hope the blizzard doesn't hamper you too much!

All the surplus wire in the photo will be gone unless someone tells me why there need to be so much slack!

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Old 01-22-2016, 08:44 PM   #30
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That rear cross member is the one with the rust and the two cutouts for drain valves? That you will need to either fabricate a new one or sister in some new material to beef it up. That ties the two side rails together and keeps it all rigid.

What the plumbing looks like will depend on what the tanks look like, where they mount and where your fixtures are located in the bath. When I redesigned it all, I spent quite a bit of time with the parts in place to visualize how it should all go back together.
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:25 PM   #31
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I have a center bath but I did post a video of the rear frame repair. The damage only extended into the rear about 20". Sistering was the way to go for me. Using standard grind it clean, and stitch weld, templates to make the parts. I added metal on both sides too. Youtube title some like: 1986 Airstream Frame Repair.

Good luck, everything looks great....
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:22 PM   #32
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Template

Managed some work this weekend. Mostly worked on new well house. That was a project that was suppose to be done BEFORE winter. Done now though. This pic shows the new piece just sitting in place. Used the old piece for a template. Maybe my son will be free again next weekend.

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Old 01-28-2016, 05:42 PM   #33
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Hey String,

Aquanoob (Bob) is a terrific resource. I did my 72 Overlander and wound up tearing the entire bathroom out, rebuilding the last four ft of frame, re epoxying the fixtures, new C channel all the way around and rebuilding the bath. It's been a chore because I don't have the capacity to leave well enough alone and just kept going. It's been a little over two years, the last working only weekends and holidays and I am alllllmost finished 😜 Actually I will be done by March.

Some advice? While you have it apart spend the money and do it right. My black tank was cracked at the flange and galvanized pan that it sat in was a rusty mess. I bit the bullet bought a new tank, built a pan, rerouted the plumbing because I never want to see those things again. I also used the Hepco waterless P trap because I believe the less holes you have in your floor the better. I don't think it's gonna clog but if it does it is right where I can get to it easily to unclog or replace it. Anyway, that's my two cents. Also, I'm about the same age as you.

Good Luck!

Dave
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Old 01-29-2016, 06:52 AM   #34
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Dave

Mine really was in pretty good shape other than that rear cross member. The pan is fine, but I have not checked out the tanks yet. I am taking my time and for sure am going back with it right. I have a mission to be through by next January for a trip to south Texas. A good friend has a trailer and we have a plan. I think I will make schedule.

Did you go back with original fixtures or a shower like Bob. I am still planning on using the Hepco, but have not decided what do with the total drain situation yet. I am waiting till I get the new shower pan.

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Old 02-03-2016, 09:58 AM   #35
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Hi String,

I refinished the original fixtures, but everything else is new. I like the Hepco because I didn't like the idea of cutting a large hole in the floor.

Dave


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Old 02-12-2016, 06:13 PM   #36
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Stringm, you're not that old! I've your elder by at least a year, and I'm building new upper cabinets. The more you work on the trailer, the better shape you'll be in.

Or you'll die in the process. But probably not!!!
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Old 02-12-2016, 06:54 PM   #37
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Stringm, you're not that old! I've your elder by at least a year, and I'm building new upper cabinets. The more you work on the trailer, the better shape you'll be in.

Or you'll die in the process. But probably not!!!
I resemble that remark.
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:51 AM   #38
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Progress







I have noticed that my body does seem to be responding better with the work. I think when I made those age comments, I was telling Bob I was trying every way I could not to have to drop the belly pan. I was really dreading that because I assumed that it was all rivets, and not bolts. I can't lay on my back and try to focus on something without getting dizzy. Friend of mine tells me it's the trifocals. He has the same issue. I got it dropped though. In fact, if I could see better, it would make all of this easier. I keep having to slide my glasses up and down my nose to see a rivet head, or some other little treat. I am making progress on things a little at a time. I am not just staying in the bathroom area. I jump around.

String
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:09 PM   #39
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Floor Is In

I need to reorganize my shop and this thread. I need to start a trailer thread and put a link to this bathroom thread. I am doing more than the bathroom. The sub-floor in the bathroom is back in. Overlay is in but not secured, except in the very center of the front. It is amazing how much different the firmness is just with the additional 1/4 inch. Where it is screwed down, it is really sound. Plan to buy a water heater, toilet flange, and dump valves tomorrow. I am going to PPl in Cleburne to get them. Plan to look at shower pans. I have a trip planned to Gatesville to visit a restore site that has a shed of used parts. I still have to figure out new vs original. The floor rot and frame set me back on the bathroom, but I am getting closer to making a move.







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Old 03-03-2016, 05:16 PM   #40
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Looking great! Ever work for the telephone company as an office tech- the butt box looks familiar😃
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