Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-09-2016, 06:58 AM   #15
OLD DUDE
 
stringm's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Eustace , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 51
So From Here

Here is where I am at now. So I need some guidance on the best practice of removing the last section of sub-floor. In the pics you can see bent bolts coming up through the C channel. Fairly rusted, grind off the heads underneath or what? After I take the banana wraps off the sides I am guessing more bolts. Will I have to remove interior skins? Any of y'all that have been through this, I KNOW you know a better way than I do. On every thing I have done to this trailer I learn. After I get through with something I think, HMMM, wished I had known that when I started. Thanks for the help.

String







[/QUOTE]
__________________

__________________
stringm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2016, 10:27 AM   #16
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
You can run a sawzall blade in-between the floor and the bottom of the c channel, that is one method. You may be able to get them to snap off just by grabbing the top with vicegrips and going back and forth, they are probably half way eaten up with rust anyway. And grinding is always an option too. You will have bolts all around that bind the c channel to the floor. The banana wraps are riveted to the sides below the trim and underneath to the frame and belly pan. Just drill out the rivets and go gently with them, they will have to go back on.

I pulled the floor out in sections, but made a straight cut with a track saw where I wanted to mate the old with the new. Most of what I went through with the new section of floor is in the blog, and you've probably seen those shots already. I did have to trim a wee bit of the bottom of the aluminum skin outside in order to slide in the new floor. Using the masonite as a template was really the best way to get the outline of the floor since the old floor is too damaged to work.












Masonite inside, marked the location of the holes after several tries of just getting close. Probably cut the holes large and just use the tape to refine the locations is the best and quickest way.



Initially I used a piece of pressure treated ply then realized it was a no no so I pulled it out and copied it to some exterior grade subfloor, not pix of that new floor, sorry.

__________________

__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
http://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2016, 01:28 PM   #17
OLD DUDE
 
stringm's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Eustace , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 51
Bob

Did you trim about two inches around the bottom of your interior siding? Did you use that nibbler shear from Harbor Freight? They are having a big sale this weekend. I picked up a double bevel miter saw for 134.

String
__________________
stringm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2016, 06:41 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
I did, rather than remove the whole inner skin. I knew that I would be covering it all up anyway so for me, no worries. I dont remember what I used to make the cut, but that nibbler should work fine.
__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
http://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2016, 08:32 PM   #19
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
String, you referred to the bent bolts and it reminded me of this old video I absolutely love. It shows the making of what I believe may be a 72 Overlander

https://youtu.be/g4cegxy41Jc
__________________
thesignlady is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2016, 06:01 AM   #20
OLD DUDE
 
stringm's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Eustace , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 51
Video

TSL

That video is neat. Frying fish inside didn't really seem too appealing, but oh well. This has sure been a different adventure than house remodeling. Those pneumatic tools are why those bolts are a fit to get out even using Power Blaster. I had one in the bumper I called every thing in the book before it came out.

That MC you put me onto is the dangdest stuff I have ever seen. I will post some pictures of stuff back on your thread. I put back a plastic tab I broke on a blind cover bracket. It was hanging horizontally, no problem. Held in place maybe 40 seconds, let go and no sag at all. I can't tell you how many different things I have use for similar repairs that never lasted. This piece seems as strong now as the one right beside it.

String
__________________
stringm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 06:33 PM   #21
OLD DUDE
 
stringm's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Eustace , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 51
Marine Flex Hose

AS Gang

I have a section of sub-floor out. I am still engineering how to handle the frame. I am thinking I will have to cut the rear member out and replace in its entirety. I will post some pictures soon, I was gonna do it today, but I forgot the camera. Workshop is 300 yards from the house, and I am forgetful.

This was probably too much info for most. I have a question about Marine Flex Drain. Now that I have the tub out and know I am going with a new shower, I want to address the drain for it. The original PVC drain manifold is a monster in size and shape. I want to re-plumb from kitchen to bath. Can a guy use 1 1/2 Marine Flex drain. It looks like it would work fine to me. Any thoughts or comments?

Sting
__________________
stringm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 08:13 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
Anything that is designed for marine use is generally overkill for an RV, so in other words it should work fine. Do you have a link for the stuff you want to use? A quick search looks like it may be glued to standard pvc fittings which helps. If you are going through all the work to replumb the drainage, you may want to try and relocate the discharge out mid way up on the rig, from what I see, most of the dump points on sites are towards the front anyway and it will save some headaches with long sewage hoses.

For that crossmember, I would replace it with some sturdy angle iron and make it so it sits on top of the frame and also butts securely against the side rails. Since the c channel sits on top of that, I would think about how you could lay a piece of aluminum on top of that but separate it from the steel with some sort of rubber gasket or layer. For that matter you could probably skip the aluminum but do put something down to prevent the bimetallic corrosion you will get otherwise.

In general, if you think you can better engineer the structure that what is original, you are probably right, you are not worried about the cost. Post it here for a sanity check. Have fun.
__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
http://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 02:51 PM   #23
OLD DUDE
 
stringm's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Eustace , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 51
Flex

Bob

I was thinking of just the inside drain stuff sinks, shower, into the grey/black tanks. Some kind of t into the stiff vent pipe though. This was what I was looking at. I am still dwelling on the framework. I am working on power converter. Weather is cold nasty and rainy.

String

Shields 141 Multiflex Hose
__________________
stringm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2016, 06:41 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by stringm View Post
Bob

I was thinking of just the inside drain stuff sinks, shower, into the grey/black tanks. Some kind of t into the stiff vent pipe though. This was what I was looking at. I am still dwelling on the framework. I am working on power converter. Weather is cold nasty and rainy.

String

Shields 141 Multiflex Hose
Not sure about using what you linked to, maybe not smooth enough for drain, I had found this on amazon, surely on other sites: http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-PVC-P.../dp/B000P6D4XE

I dont really follow exactly what you want to do on the undersink plumbing. A diagram would help. I thought that rig was inside, the weather is still an issue?
__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
http://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2016, 06:52 AM   #25
OLD DUDE
 
stringm's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Eustace , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 51
Shop

Bob

The shop is 30 x 50, it is insulated and I have some heat, but making it warm is another story. It is also a 300 yard walk from the house. It has rained so much here I have natural springs seeping across the property. I have the Gator to run back and forth with, but it's inside the building. Some days walking to the shop in 40 degree rain just doesn't get me worked up. The trailer leaves me about a foot at the rear to walk around. Working on that rear member requires opening the overhead. I have till next January to finish!

The RV Doctor: What? No P-Trap in the RV?

Looking at doing away with P trap, and trying to make this more compact. I was just hoping to maximize space so I good have as many new shower options as possible. Looks like things could be simplified in place of this monster that was behind the tub shroud. I have not diagrammed it though.

String

__________________
stringm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2016, 08:34 AM   #26
4 Rivet Member
 
rugjenkins's Avatar
 
1975 Argosy 28
Springville , Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 424
Hepvo drain valves would remove the p-traps. U can find them on vintage trailer supply
__________________
Matt
rugjenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2016, 11:51 AM   #27
Wise Elder
 
Jammer's Avatar
 
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river , Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,119
Hello String

The HepvO traps have been out there for a while. They are not perfect, and I've seen some reports that over time they may require more maintenance due to clogging or failing to seal. If you need them you need them but if you have room for a P trap that may be a better choice.

In general ABS pipe is easier to work with and is the preferred choice for RV drains.

I repaired the holes and cracks in the fiberglass bath in my Cayo and repainted it with marine epoxy, and am happy with the results. I have photos here somewhere. It does require patience, time, and a few hundred dollars worth of materials and supplies.

Feel your pain on working in tight spaces.
__________________
To learn to see below the surface, you must adjust your altitude
Jammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2016, 03:56 PM   #28
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
String

A couple of pix to show how I handled the trap, assuming you are talking about the shower base, not the sink.




Raised the base up a bit to have clearance for the drain:



Can see the p-trap here coming down:



The drain from the front sink meets up with the shower:




Plumbing back aft, remember there is no gray tank:



Vent from the black tank, drain for the sink, line to the left goes to the vent stack.



__________________

__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
http://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
68 ambassador bathroom starting point - bathroom renovation hedgerocks Plumbing - Systems & Fixtures 1 03-18-2015 04:55 PM
Bathroom vanity and Bathroom vent lights... sovereignrwe Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 10 01-05-2010 07:30 AM
order of repairs for rear end sag and floor rework NY_Chairs Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 1 06-22-2009 07:38 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.