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Old 09-27-2012, 08:49 PM   #15
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1974 31' Excella 500
newport , Rhode Island
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by adonh

Just curious, why are you removing the panels down to the ribs and skin. Are you going to put them back up at some point.

Don
......we are removing any and all organic materials - it sat in a field for a year, and the mice took over. The smell right now is not pleasant! New subfloor, insulation, etc the trailer will spend much of its life in Florida, so it will be important to incorporate as many inert materials as possible.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:07 PM   #16
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1974 31' Excella 500
newport , Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeggieBullet
nice progress! we saw a couple of threads that they used stripper again to remove the fiberglass left over and after steam cleaning! It did look good and totally sanitized!
keep the pics coming, btw any tricks to remove the headliner?
.....after I removed the dozen or so rivets in random locations, I grasped the edge of the fan hole, and pulled straight down, til one edge pulled out of the T-trim. I moved down the line and repeated until one whole side was out. at this point, it would be best to have a helper, as you pull out the other side. I did not, and the 25 ft piece came crashing down. luckily, it only suffered a minor kink.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:45 PM   #17
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1974 31' Excella 500
newport , Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeggieBullet
nice progress! we saw a couple of threads that they used stripper again to remove the fiberglass left over and after steam cleaning! It did look good and totally sanitized!
keep the pics coming, btw any tricks to remove the headliner?
.....as it turns out, the leftover fiberglass stuck on the walls was not as big an issue as expected! I used a textured rubber glove to brush off the majority of it; just a moderate amount of pressure with the palm, and 90 percent of it wipes off the wall. I will try Goof-Off, and then the steam cleaning, as suggested. all we have left of the walls is the rear cap over the bath area. We have moved ahead much faster than expected - more time for beer.

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Oh what a relief it is!
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:52 PM   #18
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2007 20' Safari SE
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wow....that is a clean interior!
wondering what kind of insulation are you going with?
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:25 AM   #19
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1974 31' Excella 500
newport , Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeggieBullet View Post
wow....that is a clean interior!
wondering what kind of insulation are you going with?



.....we were happy with how clean the residual insulation came off without the help of chemicals! I think a steam cleaning will complete the job! any one have any experience with doing that? As far as new insulation goes, with all the threads regarding this out there, it seems like it's between Prodex or spray-on foam. I am open to thoughts and experience, particularly as it relates to the southern climate the AS will be hanging out in.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:33 PM   #20
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1974 31' Excella 500
newport , Rhode Island
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.....we're getting to the fun part, if you consider doing a full monty in winter in an open field in New England fun, that is. We've started cutting off the bolts in the c-channel, this weekend I am going to do a template of the inner floor shape before we put bracing on. Maybe that is overkill, but my confidence level is not overflowing - this is my first man-on-metal experience! As I pulled the last of the skins off, it is apparent that there was some kind of trauma, gradual or otherwise, inflicted on the rear bath area. The vertical alum. members on either side of the window were seperated from the c-channel by 3/4 inch (see photo), and the whole rear section of c-channel dips as it makes its way around the back! I humbly solicit remedial advice! Can the channel be forced back into line? Does it have to be remade?
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:16 PM   #21
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1973 Argosy 24
Houston , Texas
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Hope I'm wrong, but rear bath mid 70's 30+ footers were known for frame sag.... if it was not hit you may be looking at frame sage... now would be the time to reinforce that area.
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