advice wanted for bathroom sink replacement

Shelby Copeland · 12-23-2003, 05:09 PM

My 74 tradewind is in desperate need of a bathroom spruce up. I have used Krylon Fusion paint on the front interior end cap with pretty good results and plan to use it on the bathroom end cap and the top of the vanity as well as the shower pan. I plan to install a new Sealand 111 toilet. My major question deals with the possibility of installing a new sink where the existing molded sink is located. I thought I would just cut out the existing sink and drop in a new stainless steel sink. Has anyone done this? Are there any pitfalls that I am not forseeing? Has anyone else used the Krylon Fusion in the bathroom area? Thanks foryour help. Shelby

j54mark · 12-23-2003, 05:38 PM

Your sink can be refurbished to a like new - or maybe better than new - condition by a competent refinisher. There are some threads on this topic, so you may want to use the "search" feature to locate them.

If I was going to do what you propose, ie, cut a hole in the counter and install a stainless sink, I would want some addtional support for the rim. This might be done most easily by affixing some scrap strips of the same material onto the underside of the opening. How to attach this material will depend entirely on what it is made from. Or perhaps just some wood strips.

Mark

smily · 12-23-2003, 05:43 PM

Are you going to be able to get a sink that matches the footprint of your existing bowl?

I have refinished several countertops and shower basins.

Try the Krulon fusion method first.

Smily

j54mark · 12-23-2003, 06:09 PM

I am a big fan of Fusion paint, but it is not going to stand up to the kind of scrubbing most of us tend to use in cleaning a sink. Maybe with a coat of wax, though....

Mark

thenewkid64 · 12-23-2003, 07:14 PM

The ABS counter is normally supported by a sheet of plywood that sometimes has a cutout for the sink. It depends on the size of the counter. If not you can add one once you cut the sink out. Look in the west marine catalog for a small bathroom bowl. You will find a stainless one that is a drop in .Here is a link to one You will still use a deck mounted faucet but need to either reuse the strainer or get a new bar strainer if you want it to match the old one.

overlander64 · 12-23-2003, 07:22 PM

Greetings Shelby!

I would encourage you to seriously consider at least talking to a professional bathroom fixture refinisher. It may be less costly than you imagine, and is generally accompanied by a guarantee (mine came with a 5 year performance guarantee). The photo below is of the "after" - - the before was faded avacado green with yellow splotches:

One thing that I learned through this process was that there were three varieties of plastic in the bath in my Overlander and each required a different preparation procedure as well as different primer/surfacers and top coats. Fortunately, all were available in the antique pewter color that I had selected for the bathroom reprocessing. It has been more than 18-months and the fixtures still look as good as they do in the photo - - cleaning has been quite easy with a product designed for fiberglass bathroom fixtures. The overall cost of the tub/shower, sink, toilet surround, and toilet was less than $600.00

Good luck with your restoration/refurbishing project!

Kevin

smily · 12-24-2003, 06:40 AM

I do not believe you will be scrubbing as hard as some may think after you refinish. Maybe a wiping of water of the counter every once in awhile though.

The scrubbing is a meaure taken when your countertops are not refinished and desperation settles in to remove the spotting.

Try the Krylon. It is not what I use but the method is the same.

Smily

overlander64 · 12-24-2003, 09:31 AM

The one thing to keep in mind before attempting a do-it-yourself refinishing project on the fixtures is whether a professional refinisher will consider the repair job if the do-it-yourself process is unsuccessful. I know that my refinisher basically said that he wouldn't touch a failed do-it-yourself project as it would be nearly impossible to guarantee the results since the adhesion characteristics of his process were dependent upon preparation of a "known" surface and use of the proprietary primer/surfacer/top coat system.

Not to say that you won't be happy with a do-it-yourself result. The concern is what your options might be if the results aren't satisfactory.

Kevin

gregg · 12-25-2003, 07:06 AM

You might want to consider a solid surface i.e. Corian top.
Any SS shop should be able to design and fabricate your custom top that will come with a 10yr factory warranty mat'l & labor.