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Old 05-15-2018, 10:59 PM   #281
Rivet Master
 
1970 25' Caravanner
Incline Village , Nevada
Join Date: Jul 2012
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ehodg66. Thanks. Inching along. Took awhile to find the section you were referencing. That skin cleaning seems so long ago. Section in this thread that you were referring to was #74 http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/7...ml#post2055796.

Anything accomplished during this restoration was generously provided by others who no doubt have more experience. The more complete explanation for why we cleaned the skins this way is in another thread : http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...in-176470.html

Regard Wabbiteer as an expert and appreciate his advice which was "You don't need further anti-corrosion treatment"...so we didn't.

Hope that helps.
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:41 PM   #282
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Still looking for 60" wide belly aluminum

Way back took the belly skin off and basically ruined it as was not patient and caused a lot of tears when chiseling out the rivets. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/7...ml#post2043984

Costly error.

Going to replace it all. Still looking for a good resource. Most places sell 48" wide pieces. Ideally want 60" wide sections to minimize number of pieces needed. Tried Wabbiteer's place, Garelich Steel, but no luck. Also no luck at Airparts, Aircraft-Spruce, Wicks Aircraft, Ryerson and a local outfit here, PDM.

Any suggestions? Made a note, so probably read in another reno thread, that sometimes tractor-trailer places have long sheets of aluminum. Going to make some random calls.

Per advice here, bought 3/16" wide flange rivets from the good folks at Copperstate https://www.copperstate.com/shop/482/18RD-BSL/products so ready to go.
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Old 05-16-2018, 12:07 AM   #283
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1970 25' Caravanner
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Also looking for exterior fridge vent

Moved the fridge location and will need to cut a hole in the side of the trailer for venting. It will be located to the rear of the door. Manufacterer suggests size of 7"x19" but just don't care for the vents that they supply. Want to go with something unique...something like this
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Any suggestions on places that can make something like this at specified size and out of aluminum?
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:43 AM   #284
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Mmmmmm…. LOUVERS!

To satiate my louver curiosity, I used some spare 6061-T6 plate to make my “Hillbilly Louver Punch”. It worked OK, but they were 3/8”. I decided that I wanted 1/2”, and keeping them in perfect registration became a tedious issue.


Then, I found this place, which I am pleased to refer…


AIRCRAFT SPECIALTY LLC
38 S MAIN ST #568
OCONOMOWOC WI 53066




I sent them a diagrammed aluminum panel that I had cut and bent into a water heater cover. Their work was accurate and flawless. They said that they could have made the whole thing for about the same cost as me sending them the “just louvers” job.


Really fine louver work…


Mmmmmm…. LOUVERS!
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Old 05-16-2018, 02:21 PM   #285
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Thank for that source Aluminuminum. Just sent them an email with photo of desired vent and will see what they say.

That must be your picnic table work bench. Nice idea with the screen. Keep the insects out. Think will do the same. Was also trying to think of a way to have a shutter behind the louvers as we sometimes tow down long dirt roads and prior trips have left us with a fair amount of interior dust/dirt upon arrival.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:53 PM   #286
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Hi Jeremey: 60" wide would be a bit short for my belly pan installs. The exterior skin wraps don't reach the frame rails in all cases, like 1966 Trade Wind. I bought a roll of 5052 at .025 thick and 48" wide.

Then starting from the rear bumper, I made my first belly pan piece and riveted in place. 48" is common to the usual 24" spacing of the cross members. Each belly pan sheet requires custom cutting around bumper parts, propane lines, entry steps, axle brackets, drain lines, and the like. I just kept moving forward with another 48" "wide" piece that I cut to maybe 65" to make sure I have "under wrap" of the exterior skin wraps. I simply spliced the pieces that didn't terminate on a cross member. Starting from the rear allowed easier about 1" overlap at the splice joint of the pieces. That way rain water spray when towing in the wet will more likely flow toward the rear and not penetrate the joints.

Yep, 60" would save some piecing, but you may find it a bit short in width.

David
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:32 PM   #287
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1970 25' Caravanner
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Belly pan lay out

David. Here is the current belly pan (minus a couple of cut outs on the rear curb side that were used for the rear bumper flange).
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If recalling correctly, frame rail side to side was similar to what Wabbiteer reported, 61"?? And believe the frame is 1.5" deep. So 60" would be just enough to allow for riveting. Will need to remeasure as you have casted some doubt. As can see, there are separate pieces that covered the outriggers and tucked under the outer skins.

In regards to the tractor-trailer supply places, found a couple that carry rolled and sheet 5052 aluminum up to 60" wide. Have emailed for quote.
https://alumetsupply.com/
https://www.ofrmetals.com/


Aluminuminum's suggestion for fabricating the louvered vent replied quite quickly. Sent a diagram and am awaiting quote.
http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:44 PM   #288
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Wood identified...cherry and walnut

Brought some pieces to Mastercraft and they say the sheets are walnut veneer and the boards are cherry.
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The walnut veneer has seen better days. Too many amateurs (me) sanding and staining too many times. Not much veneer left. After seeing Aluminuminum's work, am thinking need to upgrade. Brought a woodworker friend over who is going to donate some cherry boards and sheets (Mastercraft quoted $100 per sheet and $7 per linear foot) so will probably try to do everything with that. Might as well, have done everything else on this trailer twice!

Have been sanding these boards and running through a lot of sandpaper on the palm sander and not quite getting back to the original wood but woodworker friend politely suggested to run them through the planer...duh.
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:10 AM   #289
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Installed struts for bed

Got these 20" 90# struts installed to the bed frame. Wasn't sure how powerful they needed to be to lift bedding/mattress but got 2 of them. Thinking might be able to get away with one. Going to make it easy to access that deep storage as welll as the converter box and batteries.
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:41 PM   #290
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Re-doing cabinets/closet

Acquired some cherry wood (for free) from a cabinet maker and have decided to redo the closet and cabinet pieces we have worked on thus far. Previously used some oak to trim out missing pieces and thought that would be a constant reminder of imperfection for years to come. Might as well make all cherry. Nothing like redoing projects and extending deadlines. Hope to be done by the end of the weekend with that.
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:43 PM   #291
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Need help on DIY fiberglass shower pan

Does anyone have advice, or a link, on how to make a custom fiberglass shower pan? Going to dive into that as the next project.
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Old 05-26-2018, 02:03 PM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy9107 View Post
Does anyone have advice, or a link, on how to make a custom fiberglass shower pan? Going to dive into that as the next project.


I've made them out of aluminum, riveted on 2" centers with lots of sealant between seams. I extended the sides up the wall and had the step side built into the pan. I made a custom die to recess the drain a bit. Used a hydraulic press to form it. Worked out pretty good.
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Old 05-28-2018, 11:32 PM   #293
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HiHoAgRV. That would create a unique look. Could one get away with creating that without the hydraulic press? How does the Aluminum hold up over time?
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Old 05-28-2018, 11:42 PM   #294
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Closet redone

Blame myself for all the redo projects but with this just couldn't live with some oak mixed in with cherry. And since was given some cherry boards, decided to redo the closet face. Like it much better now. Going to trim out a bit more on the inside to cover the seams. The shelf and sides were repurposed walnut (guess could live with that).

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Old 05-28-2018, 11:56 PM   #295
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Starting on bathroom

Was able to get rear wall of bathroom in today. Using 1/4" cherry. Cabinet maker friend getting this under his contractor rate so made it easier to ditch the walnut that was going to repurpose.

Have had a tough time firguring out angle of the curve but this method worked well. Started by using the prior aluminum channel and tracing that on cardboard.
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Made sure it was plumb and square.
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Then cut back on the cardboard until it fit nicely against the curve.
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Used the cardboard to trace outline on cherry sheet and cut with skillsaw.
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Fit like a glove.
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Have plans to place 2nd sheet of cherry ply on the front wall and the street side will be 10 mil veneer cherry. Not sure how to attach that yet though. Was thinking of gluing to a sheet of FRP first. But might also just glue directly to skin?? Have a painter friend who is going to give us a 2 part clear epoxy that he says will make these panels water resistant. None of that can go in until we figure out what to do with the shower though.

Do have an interesting idea for a sink. Just couldn't get bathroom layout to accommodate a sink. But am thinking will place the sink in the shower area and have the faucet double as the shower head. The wife is not too crazy about the idea...but will see if can design something that she can agree with.
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Old 05-29-2018, 06:11 PM   #296
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I think I mentioned it before. Some Airstreams have a little bath vanity sink outside the bathroom, kinda like a hotel might. You may have a little area in the hallway where you would have room for a small vanity with a sink.

By the way, your idea of a sink in the shower room is exactly the way my son's 69 Globetrotter is made. His is a wet bath in the rear corner of the trailer. You can sit on the toilet, brush your teeth, and shower all at once. The shower head is plumbed to the sink faucet. I'm with your wife on this one. I'm not a fan of a wet bath.

But you gotta keep the better half happy, so keep making proposals until the light goes on.

David
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Old 05-30-2018, 08:12 AM   #297
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David. Recall you mentioning the hall sink. The wife is weirded out by toilet in shower....but the idea would be to have toilet and shower separate with sink in shower area. Ideas don't always come to reality though.
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Old 06-03-2018, 11:23 PM   #298
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Fridge vents

Got the lower fridge vents installed. As mentioned before, moved the fridge and am venting between skins (hope it works).

Was trying to find a 19"x7" (to match recommendations of fridge manufacturer) aluminum louvered vent but was not successful. Just didn't like the plastic ones that Norcold sells.

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Called ALUMINUMINUM's source : AIRCRAFT SPECIALTY LLC, 38 S MAIN ST #568, OCONOMOWOC WI 53066. The guy was fantastic. Called back right away and was real honest in saying it would be an expensive job ($200 estimation). So went with these stainless steel vents for $10 a piece. Haven't been disappointed yet in things purchased from marine sites!
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https://www.iboats.com/shop/seadog-s...vent-oval.html

Still get nervous when cutting holes in the outer skin. Had to double up to get close to the recommended vent size.
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Kept the old Suburban furnace vent in place as thought it would look better than a patch, plus it gives a little more vent surface area. Aluminum screen was Sikaflex'd to back side to keep the insects out. And made gaskets out of window sill flashing.
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Used Aluminum screws on the Suburban vent and buck riveted the others. Might decide to put a few more rivets in those.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:08 AM   #299
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1970 25' Caravanner
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How to connect 12V fridge?

Replaced the 1970s Dometic with a Norcold N3104 : https://www.thetford.com/product/n3104/

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Had limited options as wanted to get an under counter model that was less than 22" wide. Will use it mainly in propane mode, sometimes in AC mode, and new to us will be the 12V mode. Had prewired 2 wires for the 12V hook up but it came with this attachment :
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Anyone know how to connect this? Is there an adapter we need to buy? Can we just connect the power and ground? Can it be connected directly to the battery or does it have to go through umbilical? Am totally worthless reading wiring diagrams but here is the one provided by Norcold : https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...ler-Wiring.pdf
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:36 AM   #300
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According to the diagram below, the D.C. Side won't work unless connected to the tow vehicle battery and alternator. This option is great since the frig would be working as you travel. It looks straight forward. Norcold may have the connector for sale. Sorry I'm not much help. I plan on a residential unit. I'm curious to know if you will have to run 3 new wires on the tow vehicle to make the D.C. Mode work.
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