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Old 08-15-2016, 07:21 PM   #1
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1955 30' Liner Commodore Vanderbilt
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1954 Safari Hidden AC Unit?

We are looking for a recommendation for an air conditioning unit for a 1954 Safari. We would prefer an AC Unit that is hidden and does not disrupt the roof line. Please provide any recommendations that you have successfully implemented. Thank you in advance for your input.
Regards,
StevieB
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:12 AM   #2
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1955 30' Liner Commodore Vanderbilt
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Still Looking - Hidden AC Unit

We are still looking for any and all ideas for a hidden AC Unit for our 54 Safari. Also, what BTU AC Unit would adequately meet the specs of a 22' model?
Thanks,
StevieB
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:40 AM   #3
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1955 22' Safari
1967 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Clear Lake Shores , Texas
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Split System A/C

Not really "hidden" but not on the roof either. This 12,000 BTU unit has proved quite adequate for our 22 ft Flying Cloud.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:17 AM   #4
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1954 Safari Hidden AC Unit?

Look at Dometic's Kool Kat units. They resemble residential units but are built for the road and are floor mounted with a side of floor exhaust. Very easy to hide inside as well.


Lew Farber
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Old 08-18-2016, 07:54 PM   #5
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1958 22' Caravanner
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StevieB: Just looked up your '54 and saw typical lay out. Bought a 1958 22' Caravanner and hated the floor plan so I gutted it. In my case I had a rear roadside hatch large enough to add a 8,500 Btu house window air. I put it on a roll out platform. Added a full width curtain 7' from the rear window as the twin bed folds down from in front of the window. WOW!!! I love love your floor plan and had I found a '54 Safari I'd have done a full restoration. In my case, the second twin bed folds down from in front of the front window, so curtain stays folded and fans move the cooled air forward. Not ideal as the A/C works hard to keep up but, when just me on a trip, the A/C runs infrequently on low fan/low cool. WOW!!! Have always love loved your twin beds setup (even w/ rear bathroom in later models). Your rear bumper hatch is probably not tall enough for most house A/Cs but the kinds you often see hung high on a wall are wide and not very tall. I bet one would fit on a roll out platform when your hatch door is raised. Location is perfect for a curtain like mine with similar A/C operation parameters. Since my window A/C was inexpensive, I'll likely buy the new A/C unit (which I suggested for you) , set beds same as yours, and use a roll out platform from my bumper hatch. In my case I put the spare on the rear bumper so will change so it folds flat to let the A/C roll out. Glad you asked for opinions. NOTE: I'm a strong believer that original from factory outside configuration be maintained.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:13 PM   #6
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Cool Cat & Other Ideas

I got a price on a cool cat, and it is a hot to handle cat. $960 for the unit, and 4250 for the install kit. Crazy expensive! I like the idea of using the rear hatch, I need to explore that idea a little more!
Thanks to everyone that responded!
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:56 AM   #7
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1964 22' Safari
1968 26' Overlander
Beaver County , Pennsylvania
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StevieB,

For what it's worth, when we first rebuilt our '64 Safari, we also wanted to keep the original exterior lines. We built an enclosure where the original refrigerator was that enclosed a basic window A/C unit below a smaller electric only fridge. The cool air was ducted into the trailer and the warm air was ducted out the fridge vent duct. We had to also open the lower and upper service doors on the outside of the vent duct to exhaust the heat. The problem was getting the cool air moved around in the trailer. Since the A/C was on the floor, that's where the cool air was. (Coolest ankles in the campground...) We added a couple of small fans to help, but over all it was not really effective.

We replaced the fridge with a propane/electric unit about two years ago and did away with the enclosed A/C. We went to a stand alone portable A/C unit that ducted the hot air out through one of the storage vents. We made a second door cover with the duct built in. This unit raised the cool air outlet well off the floor and is better than the A/C on the floor. These units are not very efficient, though, because they use some of the cooled compartment air is used to cool the condenser coils and blow the hot air outside. They also require a place to sit (floor space or seating space.)

We're finishing another AS now and we put on a rooftop unit. It works great, is extremely efficient, and takes up no floor space. (Probably the reasons manufacturers put them there.) But it was uncomfortable for me cutting a big hole in the roof of a vintage AS.

Good luck, hope this helps,

Roy
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:28 PM   #8
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The picture shows a bull dog hitch. I have used them and like them on several trailers (flat bed and boat) but have not seen one on a RV. I cannot figure out why they are not used since they work so well on other type of trailers. What made you decide on a bull dog and has it been successful.
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:24 PM   #9
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1969 23' Safari
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i didnt want to add anything to the roof line either in our 69 safari. I went with a home portable free standing floor unit, 120 volts. It uses a 4 inch flexible exhaust vent. I made a termination fitting behind the inverter door out of sheet metal, when we park i remove the outside door to expose the vent termintion. The unit sits in the rear of our trailer, and works well. Simple, cheap, functional.
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:01 PM   #10
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1954 Safari Hidden AC Unit?

To piggy back on 69s statement. Some people go with portable room AC units. They can be placed under a cabinet to blend in. They can vented through the floor.

http://www.allergyandair.com/koldfro...FdQ2gQodFBcOgQ


There is also a good selection of marine AC units that can be vented in creative ways.

http://www.marinaire.com/Marine-air-...FVQo0wodUucLJA


Two section semi truck system.

http://www.bigrigproducts.com/dometictruckac.html
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:32 AM   #11
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Portable Unit Model?

69bullett, what brand, model and BTU did you use?
Thanks!
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Old 08-20-2016, 09:54 AM   #12
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1969 23' Safari
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Here are some pics of the unit in the trailer. This is a basic unit you pick up at home depot or walmart. measures about 14x14x24" high.
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:49 AM   #13
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1955 22' Safari
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Late reply

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMarugg View Post
The picture shows a bull dog hitch. I have used them and like them on several trailers (flat bed and boat) but have not seen one on a RV. I cannot figure out why they are not used since they work so well on other type of trailers. What made you decide on a bull dog and has it been successful.
Hitch came with the trailer. Performed flawlessly and seemed more robust and foolproof than conventional type.
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:53 AM   #14
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1955 22' Safari
1967 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverflames View Post
To piggy back on 69s statement. Some people go with portable room AC units. They can be placed under a cabinet to blend in. They can vented through the floor.

http://www.allergyandair.com/koldfro...FdQ2gQodFBcOgQ


There is also a good selection of marine AC units that can be vented in creative ways.

http://www.marinaire.com/Marine-air-...FVQo0wodUucLJA


Two section semi truck system.

http://www.bigrigproducts.com/dometictruckac.html
1. In my experience, portable A/C units are not very effective in this application. YMMV.
2. As far as I know, most marine A/C units utilize a heat exchanger system which relies on seawater as a cooling medium...
3. Semi truck systems reportedly work great, but are $$.
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