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Old 09-17-2015, 08:39 AM   #61
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stay tuned

Hi Becky, I may have gotten in over my head here. The Liner was apparently in excellent condition as found....see photo. Then, as I always do, I started digging in and found many things I did not like at all. So, it looks like I will do another "make it for myself" project. I have to get rid of the others and make room. I hate to because they were all labors of love and done right. This one will be special but might be to big for my tastes. I got it because it was so rare and so nice already. Stay tuned.
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:07 AM   #62
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How long is she? I like the fact that she has 2 axles unlike a lot of the long vintage traylas😊.
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:50 AM   #63
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For any Vintage

http://www.airstream.com/wp-content/...44fe50e51b.pdf
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:32 PM   #64
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Liner floor work slow but sure

I have cut the 3/4 inch floor boards and painted with high grade porch paint for weather proofing I then coat the edges with a smoothed out Tempro sealant. I take the cut to size floor board and use it as a forming template for the .032 aluminum belly pan.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:38 PM   #65
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frame clean up and POR

Frame was in great condition....except for the rear crossmember
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:47 PM   #66
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You have made the frame look new. 3/4 subfloor and .032 belly pan. You build them to last. Great idea to use the cut to size floor as a forming die for the belly pan curve. I had much difficulty with the rear curved belly pan segments on my 66. I used .025 material instead of the .032. The fronts were the formed aluminum "banana wraps" that take the difficulty out of forming the compound curves. the 86 has plastic banana wraps in front making the job even easier once the mold is made.

There is a lot of good work that goes on in the red barn of yours.

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Old 09-25-2015, 08:00 AM   #67
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As I repair damage from a tire blowout I offer this suggestion. While you can, replace the wheel wells with sturdy steel. The thin galvanized wells do not hold up well to a tire thrashing. Also just behind the wheels reinforce the floor. Maybe screw a steel sheet to bottom of the floor.
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Old 09-25-2015, 08:39 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FC7039 View Post
As I repair damage from a tire blowout I offer this suggestion. While you can, replace the wheel wells with sturdy steel. The thin galvanized wells do not hold up well to a tire thrashing. Also just behind the wheels reinforce the floor. Maybe screw a steel sheet to bottom of the floor.
Good advice for when doing a rebuild. I have considered that.
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Old 09-28-2015, 04:31 PM   #69
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floor boards an fit

I am using 3/4 inch scrap wood to hold the side wall and floor spacing. This seems to be the most difficult task so far.
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:09 AM   #70
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carriage bolt installation

This might be a tip to some. In order to have a flush floor for final work I had to have a way to flush the carriage bolt head. Hammer just did not do it. So I used a hole saw and cut a 1/8th inch deep , +/-, groove. Then a chisel out the center piece. The carriage bolt now can be hammered in flush.
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Old 10-05-2015, 11:37 AM   #71
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slight diversion

I have to watch the weather here in Texas. I figured I should strip the end caps before the first freeze coming here in three or four weeks. Do the outside work while I can. Then things move inside the Red Barn. I am using Citristrip. I usually use Aircraft Stripper, but will try this now.
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:01 PM   #72
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Great idea on "counter boring" the carriage bolt heads. I used carriage bolts and hammered and ground them flush the best I could. I suppose I should have purchased "elevator bolts". I also had trouble getting the carriage bolts tight. I elected to use lock nuts. So I ended up cutting a screw driver slot in the head of the carriage bolt.

Actually with your idea to counter bore. You could bore the hole big enough to get a thin wall socket in there. And then use a regular hex head bolt and not have the trouble I had. Or use a smaller counter bore and then a socket head cap screw and an Allen wrench to hold the bolt steady while tightening it from the bottom.

I need to learn how folks bolt their subfloor and c-channel with elevator bolts.

David
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:27 PM   #73
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still on the floor and pan

Still fastening the floor to the frame and the shell to the floor/frame.
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Old 10-12-2015, 09:57 PM   #74
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I have a polishing question Robin.Since you have done way more 55's than I ever intend to, what is the sequence you've worked out? I have started with the caswell black compound on a vented wheel and I do have a cyclo available when I get to that point. So what do I do in between?
BTW- the bronze window screens look awesome!!!!
keep up the great work
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Old 10-13-2015, 12:43 PM   #75
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end caps

Finished up the stripping of the caps....that was not fun or easy. Twice around with Citri strip then brass brush, Aircraft stripper and aluminum wool. Now I have the cap braced up and I am starting the polish.
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:38 PM   #76
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Looking good, Robin! I do recall that being a huge pain! You're making great progress, as usual :-)
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:02 PM   #77
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Endcaps update

Got the Jetsco yellow wheel first and the Jetsco sisal with red bar done. Then, for the heck of it a quick wool pad check with the new Vintage Trailer Supply medium grade polish.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:52 PM   #78
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todays fill in work

Before I do the finish up un the belly pan I thought I could do the busy work. I used the VTS product Airbright coarse...to start the polish of the newly stripped cabinets. The inside floors of the cabinets were very difficult because of accumulated food spills, etc.
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:23 PM   #79
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OK...so starts the arguments. Insulation

Again....I will just use this forum area to paste in information I plan to use. I am looking at Prodex applications, rock wool/aluminum faced duct material and closed cell foam. Here we go...Stay Away from Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:55 PM   #80
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Red Barn Liner

Try this and let's us know how it works. http://www.amazon.com/BrickWood-Oven.../dp/B00L9DOJ8Q

http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Insulation_Ceramic.php

In my tests the two things that make the most difference is the conduction of the ribs and the other thing is how clean and shiny the skins are. Not the the side you see but the inner sides. For the same reason that insulation is foil lined your inner sides should be shiny. This is to deter radiant heat. You will need air space as anything that touches conducts.

The sunlight hits the outside. White reflects this radiation best. But it will get hot. This heat will radiate, conduct and convect through to the inner skin. The inner skin will radiate it or convect it to you. Shiny aluminum surfaces radiate less than painted surfaces.

Maybe you can replace your roof ribs with homemade molded carbon fiber ribs 😄 a joke but I bet a better solution.



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