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Old 08-24-2015, 06:56 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Melody Ranch View Post
photo upload seemed slow but worked.
Kip, is this what you were referring to
yes
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:01 PM   #42
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floor wood out

I took only the from two pieces of flooring out so I could replace the plywood. I found the nest for the Hornets which have attacked me since getting home with the Liner. The hold down bolts in the C channels seem to be my only real problem as of now.
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:38 PM   #43
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I was trying to think of all the ways we have removed rusted bolts.

Grind the head off
Drill the head off
Bolt cutters
Cutting torch
Plasma torch

I had access to the bolts from the bottom of the rear C channel of my 66 Trade Wind. The vice grip and "wiggle" method worked good for me.

I hope some one will step forward for a solution for you.

David
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:24 PM   #44
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Front frame section

The bolts in the C channel are inserted from the bottom and the nut is on from the top....in the channel I can't get the vice grips in there to wiggle and break. I got all the others out and POR (Chassis Saver) the exposed frame.
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Old 08-26-2015, 01:53 PM   #45
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Red Barn Liner

Maybe an ocillating tool? Cut the bolt in the middle and remove from the top and bottom (assuming they're not rust-fused to the frame). Outside of cutting a slot in the lip of the channel to facilitate vice grips and then patching it up, that's all I can think of.

When I removed mine, I put a wrench on the head of the bolt (inside the channel) and was able to break them by working them from below, using the outside of the channel to keep the wrench stationary.
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Old 08-26-2015, 10:10 PM   #46
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Thanks to all. I think I have it working now.....Needle nose vice grips.
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:30 PM   #47
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floor replacement

In order to remove the old floor easily (somewhat more easily) after I cut the hole saw sections away from the carriage bolt heads, I run a saw, set to the floor thickness, right down the middle of the whole floor. I can now work with a smaller old floor board section. I also use the removed sections to verify the patter I made for the new floor wood.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:30 PM   #48
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floor progress

The front belly pan and C channel with the front body hold down were the focus today. I got it all out and played out for reproduction tomorrow or day after. I go to Fort Worth to get my belly pan aluminum.....seven sheets on the Liner. The new flooring is cut to approximate fit and painted. I usually coat the edges of the flooring with a coat of 635 for water proofing. The body hold down was remade with aluminum angle.
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:30 PM   #49
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into the liner

The first two floor pieces are being fitted now. I am having some trouble with the hold down plate....new hold down plate.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:51 PM   #50
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Amazing progress!

When I cut out the ones on the 63, I used one of the high speed osculating saws. I put vice grips on the top of the bolt sticking up and plunged under the c channel and it cut pretty fast. Helped that they were really rusty and broken down. Chewed up a few blades but worked ok.
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:35 AM   #51
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Top to bottom

The floor work continues. I needed a break to think the front belly pan/floor/shell connect up front, so I removed the AC in prep for the wiring and drain tube install coming up. Dilemma now is....should I replace the well working old AC unit now or wait till it does an age related self destruct.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:46 PM   #52
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You should wait on the AC until a good hot August day when your 1000 miles from home.


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Old 09-11-2015, 06:22 AM   #53
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That answered that....Looking for the new AC today.
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Old 09-11-2015, 07:43 AM   #54
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Was the old one an Armstrong?
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:42 PM   #55
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Never mind-I see in the pic it was not
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:49 PM   #56
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I was going to check for you....I thought it was a Coleman. It does work well and is cleaner than I would have imagined.
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Old 09-11-2015, 07:16 PM   #57
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That is what it looks like
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:18 AM   #58
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Don't let my joke make your decision. I do not know much about ACs and what could be wrong. One issue and I am not sure it is an issue is the coolant used it the AC and what is available today. But if the AC needs coolant then it probably has issues with seals


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Old 09-17-2015, 06:35 AM   #59
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repair and mouse proof same time

I chose to replace the rear crossmember of the frame because it had the typical vintage chaffing where the frame rubbed the belly pan curve. There was significant rust where the floorboard rested on the top of the crossmember too. I removed the center portion of the belly pan for access and torched the crossmember out. Four small cuts is all. The new 4 inch channel was modified, a bit, by extending the ends to fit inside the side rails of the frame and blocking off the famous critter entry passages along the frame. It all fit perfectly and will be POR'd this morning.
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:49 AM   #60
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I don't know how I missed your latest project, but I'm so glad I stumbled upon it! I love your new Liner & will love watching your progress! That's a biggie compared to most of your projects. Are you keeping this one for yourself? It'll be amazing, I'm sure!
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