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Old 08-05-2015, 09:47 PM   #21
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I tried to work thru it

I got an early start today...nearly died in the heat of the Airstream shell out in the Sun. 105 deg is what the radio said....123 degrees on the thermometer inside where I was trying to work. I quit.
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:44 AM   #22
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So cool, and progress going so fast. Typical Robin. I'll be following this one!!
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:52 AM   #23
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Robin,

Per your request I've moved your thread to the 50-56 Liner subforum. I left a redirect in the earlier Liner subforum that will point to this new location for a couple of months, so for that time it'll appear to be in 2 places.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:16 PM   #24
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Thanks David.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:27 PM   #25
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That is a beautiful trailer and a great project. I wish I was closer - I'd lend a hand just for the experience. Are you planning to lift the body, or just replace floor segments?
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:27 PM   #26
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It is nice to be appreciated

Well, thanks. I wish you were, in fact , closer. Today I finished pulling the bath/shower area out. I am glad I did too. Pictures tomorrow. A few more interior skinks can now be accessed and removed.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:17 PM   #27
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Just found this thread.

I doubt I was the only one on this forum going through "Melody Ranch Thread Withdrawl Syndrome".

Very cool to watch. Thanks for the fix!
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:49 PM   #28
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some progress made

I did get the entire bath/toilet/shower out. What a mess to work with. There was no black tank, just a straight poop chute out the bottom. A home made shower pan of fiberglass over a real mortar leveling base (completely disintegrated) silicon all edges and corners. Original stainless pan screwed to the rotted out floor. Window siliconed inlace...maybe two whole tubes. Lights were wired with an old extension cord fed thru the wall and siliconed between the stainless and a shower board liner. Pictures tomorrow.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:43 AM   #29
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What lurks below....

You see, I had suspicions based on the "coverup" work I could see. The bath area looked so nice I was going to work around it. Then I got the heebie jeebies and decided to do it right....glad I did. Not that big a deal now that it is all opened up. I have all the plywood flooring standing by and cans of Chassis Saver (I use instead of POR) and floor sealer/paint. Here we go.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:13 PM   #30
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Hi Robin! I, too, just found this new thread, and look forward to following along.

We are just now in the process of talking about getting back onto our '56 Bubble, we've had a great deal of family issues as well as work to deal with.

Your Red Barn Liner project is exciting!

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Old 08-18-2015, 12:49 PM   #31
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slow but sure in the heat

Finished up the interior skin and old insulation removal. Nasty. Even with a face mask I end up coughing. No mouse or insect evidence, which surprises me. I did find evidence of attempted leak control at both end caps. I have no idea what the white plastic looking stuff is which was used on the seams. More clean up and then the wood floor removal.
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Old 08-18-2015, 01:13 PM   #32
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Look at that allow number 24S-T3, the for runner to 2024
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:27 PM   #33
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test

photo upload seemed slow but worked.
Kip, is this what you were referring to
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:31 PM   #34
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Here you go....a complete AC electrical wiring.

I pulled all the AC today. The 12v system seems to be only theater, running and brakes. This was a Liner made for Park use only.
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:01 PM   #35
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Gotta love the taped connections on the old wiring. Mine had several shorts to the shell. Glad to see you have another great project going.
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:09 PM   #36
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where you been?

Good to hear from you Tim. I hope the Cloud is still moving along with help from Cleco.
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:35 AM   #37
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Melody,

So was my Liner, all 110V and no ground. Connections inside the skin, scary.

Bill

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Originally Posted by Melody Ranch View Post
I pulled all the AC today. The 12v system seems to be only theater, running and brakes. This was a Liner made for Park use only.
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:38 PM   #38
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Floor removal info

I asked Friends if there was any secrets they had for floor removal. Nope, just do it. So I used my old hole saw method of cutting around the carriage bolt head to expose the head for vice grip bend and snap off technique. Because hole saws have a center drill for alignment and stability I had to modify my saw to be used without the drill bit center. Doing that now requires some sort of stabilizing guide to keep the saw from traveling. I made a guide and placed it over each carriage bolt head and sawed away. I did have to use my circular saw and clear a path thru the floor covering over the carriage bolts. I think the pictures show all of this.
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:33 PM   #39
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Nice drill guide you made there Mr. Ranch. I especially like the twin size 11 clamps. Solid.

Hole saws are nice tools. You can pilot with the drill bit, or pilot with the od of the hole saw. The guide I made was not as clever as yours. It was only a single size 10 clamp. I can't remember what I used it for. Getting old!

When I did my Trade Wind subfloor under the bath, I just grabbed the bent elevator bolts with my vice grip from underneath the trailer and wiggled a bit. Snap, bolt is gone. Air Forums folks taught me that one.

David
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:55 PM   #40
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The hole saw guide

The guide is a life saver. I have most of the elevator bolts clear and ready to remove from the bottom. If ANYBODY has a good idea on the elevator bold removal from the C channels....let me know. I have the first front floor panel out. now.
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