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Old 06-24-2019, 07:49 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Why not use a piece of lexan for the cover so you could monitor for leaks without having to remove.


Interesting idea. I had all the materials already and itís very simple to remove. Also we will know if there are any leaks as there is an access panel just below and to the left of the shower.

This way it blends in and after a while we wonít even notice it.
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Old 06-25-2019, 05:46 AM   #16
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This is what we did. Stock cabinets from Home Depot left enough space between the shower mixer and the wall. Still 4 screws to remove.
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Old 06-30-2019, 10:34 AM   #17
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My 2016 FC RB doesn't have the protruding "box" either - just a flush panel that covers the access.
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Old 06-30-2019, 12:41 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by pcskier View Post
Nice job. Interesting about the banging pipes. I have that on my 23, but unfortunately in the shower walls or floor. And not from using the shower, just from the pump being on, period. Can't get to them to isolate like you did. I am going to install an accumulation tank at my pump, I've heard that can make a big difference. Won't be fun to squeeze it in to that space, either.
PCSkier, read your post and thought I would share with you the outcome of installing an accumulator in my 2017 23FB to cut down on pipe noise. I did the same think on my 2010 20' FC Bambi and it worked perfectly. I tried it on my 2017 23FB and the water pressure went pear shaped... anemic pressures. When I called JC they informed that in the Bambi they installed pressure cut off pumps and in the 23FB they had installed variable speed pumps (speed of pump reacts to pressure needed versus demand pump on 100% until pressure reached). Took out the accumulator tank and pressures were back to norm... noise still present.

FYI
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Old 07-02-2019, 10:07 AM   #19
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The story behind that box....

Because I also was curious about an extension that seemed to serve no purpose, I called customer service at the Mothership in Ohio. The rep said that on some models there are switches on the back side (outer wall side) of that box (I didn't ask what the switches were for), and the box has the wiring to those switches. The switches can't be seen when standing at the closet door. He said that as long as I don't feel any switches, and therefore there should be no wiring inside, then there's no engineering reason preventing removal of that box and replacing it with a flat cover over the plumbing (as some on the thread have already done).

One would think they'd manufacture a flat cover for those models without the switching/wiring, and include that specification as part of the manufacturing process for those models. Seems like the priority was to save a few bucks on standardizing a part for a certain number of models, versus have a different part (the flat cover) for a small number of models that would prioritize closet space and, by extension, customer satisfaction...

Thanks very much to pwlldvd for the original post and to others on this thread who shared their modifications. We intend to replace our box with a flat cover, and maybe those Home Depot shelves, in order to maximize closet space.

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Old 09-03-2019, 05:53 PM   #20
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Update: After removing the cover, here's what I have (see pix). The plumbing actually sticks out beyond the plane of the wall, and I don't see any obvious way to fix that. Pushing on any part of it doesn't reveal hardly any "give". Even if I tried planing the right edge of the opening to enable the red plastic plumbing to better fit inside, no guarantee that it would do that, and it wouldn't change the orientation of the main middle section that includes metal attached directly to the backside of the shower fixture. That entire middle section breaks the inside plane of the wall by about an inch, and it's not moving. Don't know why some others have apparently more flush plumbing in their closet holes - did their showers get secured an inch farther away? Don't see how that's possible, given the close tolerances on everything else that the shower contacts - walls, doors, ceiling, floor - everything has to align to a template.
I'm going to see if I can find a shallow plastic container of some kind that will fit over the hole, but still provides about 2 inches of depth. Would still gain a little space on that side - the OEM box is a good 4" deep.
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Old 09-03-2019, 05:54 PM   #21
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Not sure how, but the pix I attached obviously changed orientation when posting.
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:19 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teton Stream View Post
PCSkier, read your post and thought I would share with you the outcome of installing an accumulator in my 2017 23FB to cut down on pipe noise. I did the same think on my 2010 20' FC Bambi and it worked perfectly. I tried it on my 2017 23FB and the water pressure went pear shaped... anemic pressures. When I called JC they informed that in the Bambi they installed pressure cut off pumps and in the 23FB they had installed variable speed pumps (speed of pump reacts to pressure needed versus demand pump on 100% until pressure reached). Took out the accumulator tank and pressures were back to norm... noise still present.

FYI
Thanks for this. I think I've read about that, but mine is a 2014 and that's the old on/off pump so I should be OK. I might even just get a new pump. But meanwhile, I noticed something on my last trip. The banging pipes in the shower seems to dissipate quite a bit once the shower has been used and the pipes that service it are full of water.
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:40 AM   #23
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Update: After removing the cover, here's what I have (see pix). The plumbing actually sticks out beyond the plane of the wall, and I don't see any obvious way to fix that. Pushing on any part of it doesn't reveal hardly any "give". Even if I tried planing the right edge of the opening to enable the red plastic plumbing to better fit inside, no guarantee that it would do that, and it wouldn't change the orientation of the main middle section that includes metal attached directly to the backside of the shower fixture. That entire middle section breaks the inside plane of the wall by about an inch, and it's not moving. Don't know why some others have apparently more flush plumbing in their closet holes - did their showers get secured an inch farther away? Don't see how that's possible, given the close tolerances on everything else that the shower contacts - walls, doors, ceiling, floor - everything has to align to a template.

I'm going to see if I can find a shallow plastic container of some kind that will fit over the hole, but still provides about 2 inches of depth. Would still gain a little space on that side - the OEM box is a good 4" deep.


I believe you would have room after adding the cabinets from Home Depot, you may need to measure the cabinet and cut an opening to match the plumbings intrusion, than cover the new opening with something thin. Our plumbing was not flush but was not as far into the closet as yours. If you look at the picture I added earlier you can see the cabinet is flush to the closest framing as long as your plumbing doesnít extend beyond that you would be good.
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Old 09-05-2019, 11:59 PM   #24
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Yes, saw your pix, and I intend to do something like that (and still cover the protruding plumbing). Will still be an improvement on storage options in the closet (for the way we use it).
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