Equalizer not working

[sheinzer]

Hello

My little piece of heaven is a new GT and a 2015 Ram 1500.

The issue is the Equalizer does not level the truck and trailer. The truck front is approx 4+ inches taller than the rear end.

The Equalizer is the four point with 10,000 lbs and 1,000 lbs tongue weight. The ball is at a small pitch down and has three washers on the ball assembly.
The truck bed is empty as is the back seat area.

Would raising the bracket on the trailer frame lower the truck front?

I am really at a loss. Help is much appreciated.

[Moflash]

Go to Equalizer website for proper setup instructions.Very easy if u follow the instructions

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, you will find that 5 or 6 washers works for most set-ups. Three barely does anything.

[sheinzer]

Apparently I should not have relied on the dealer installation.

[pteck]

Yes, you don't have enough WD dialed in. It'll take more washers. Usually 5-6 as above but I've heard some use 7.

It really also depends on the position of L brackets on the tongue where the WD bars sit. You may need to lift them up by 1 hole. But give the washer a try first.

[sheinzer]

Looking at the L brackets today the do look quite low (only one empty hole on top. I'll start with the washers though.

Thank you all for your help.

[morrismaster]

I followed the Equalizer website instructions and I am very pleased with the results. I jumped from 5 washers to seven. I raised the l-shape brackets and now I have very good weight distribution. Take the measurements first and make sure the trailer is level. Then make sure the hitch ball on your TV is approximately even with your coupler on the trailer. Follow the instructions.

[sheinzer]

Wife's mother just had her 101st birthday so no chance to readjust the Equalizer. Too much birthday cake these days.

Looked at the three washers and it appears that they are copper. Are the washers specific to the system? I did not get any additional washers from the dealer. Do I need washers specifically from Equalizer?

[SilverCabin]

They are hardened steel washers. You can buy them at ACE Hardware here in the east. BTW: My Equal-i-zer manual says four washers are the minimum, eight is maximum.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by sheinzer

Looked at the three washers and it appears that they are copper. Are the washers specific to the system? I did not get any additional washers from the dealer. Do I need washers specifically from Equalizer?

I asked Equalizer that exact question when I first installed my hitch. They answered that they are hardened steel, gave me the size (1/2"(??)) Take one with you, or buy several sizes, a package of four is about $2.
and I bought some from Lowe's in the fastener bins. Grade 7 washers.
But start with the truck ball at the correct height. (I recall 17.75) You can move the hitch head up and down on the shank. (1 1/8" socket and a breaker bar) Then use the washers to fine tune the adjustment. I use six. I'd have to look at my trailer to see which hole the "L" brackets are mounted in.

When set up correctly, there's no way I could pry the bars onto the "L" pads using the tool. I have to raise the hitch and truck both using the electric jack, then once the bars are on, lower it all down.

BTW, the washers flatten down after a while, and you'll develop a gap between the set bolt and the shank. Re-adjust.

[GCinSC2]

If it’s not too late consider removing the jack bolt under the head and install with head contacting shank instead of threaded end.

The threaded end can get smashed and damaged. By putting bolt head against shank, no damage. Access is slightly hampered but not bad.

Consult manual for setup as noted.

Gary

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

If it’s not too late consider removing the jack bolt under the head and install with head contacting shank instead of threaded end.

The threaded end can get smashed and damaged. By putting bolt head against shank, no damage. Access is slightly hampered but not bad.
Gary

I had to read that several times to understand. Now I get it. Flip the bolt over. I never thought of doing that, but it makes sense. Of course, if you never remove the adjustment bolt, you don't care.
Or replace the adjustment bolt with a grade 7 version and I doubt it would ever get damaged.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by sheinzer

Looking at the L brackets today the do look quite low (only one empty hole on top. I'll start with the washers though.

In searching Google for images of Airstreams with Equalizer hitches, it appears that most have one empty hole above the frame/L bracket.
I want to think mine has two, but it's at the storage yard, I'll double check next time. Mine was adjusted by the dealer's "expert", and he spent a couple hours tweaking.
It drives great, so I hate to make changes.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

I had to read that several times to understand. Now I get it. Flip the bolt over. I never thought of doing that, but it makes sense. Of course, if you never remove the adjustment bolt, you don't care.
Or replace the adjustment bolt with a grade 7 version and I doubt it would ever get damaged.

It’s those threads getting beat up right at the end. Then if you back it out, ouch.

FWIW I just tweaked a noobs equalizer install. It had too long of a shank on hitch ball and bar socket crunched it during tight turn, hitch head bolts loose big time, jack screw on bottom not tightened and applying pressure to head adj washers.

Thunka thunka thunka.

No biggy, the entire head was moving up and down over bumps. Replaced ball with correct shank length. Tightened head bolts.

All installed on new hitch by a MAJOR RV place.

I have a BIG breaker bar, sockets and not afraid to use ‘em.

Gary

[Dan and Liz]

I agree — size matters.

[morrismaster]

New Airstream. Dealer installed a weight distribution hitch and did not install it correctly; rode really rough and loud noises, no weight distribution. Took the hitch off and received credit for it after a big argument... went to another RV dealer and told them to put on a Equalizer since I liked it on first AS. “We install a hundred a month...”! They installed it wrong; truck front end up, too low on the rear, trailer not level, no weight distribution, etc... I took everything apart after watching the videos and reading the documentation. I am proud of my work! It all looks good and has good measurement numbers. Most importantly both TV and AS are level and weight distribution is engaged!

[slowmover]

None of these are finished until the rig is on the scale. 100% FALR is the starting point for maybe a bit more, or a bit less.

Eyeball or fender measurements are no more than a rough-in. The TT is “level” if a level placed across doorframe says it is.

And, yes, the final small adjustments are crucial. Thus the need for a CAT Scale. See those threads.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

It’s those threads getting beat up right at the end.

The bolt pushes against the shank. It doesn't turn. It doesn't wear a hole in the shank.
So it might bung up one thread. How else are the threads being damaged?
I thought a solution might be to add a nut to the bolt, and let it ride on the shank. But in the end, I've never removed the bolt, and I accept the wear of one thread, as did the engineers at Equalizer.

I have a BIG breaker bar, sockets and not afraid to use ‘em. Gary

It's how I acquire all my tools, one at a time. I put two breaker bars and the sockets for them under the back seat of the truck, just in case. Oh, and a three foot section of pipe, just in case. I call it my "torque amplifier".

I must say I was happy with the dealer install, but....
I found my hitch used. That's good, because it was a great value. The bad part is the dealer refused to install a hitch they didn't sell. I get it, they make $300 selling hitches and slapping them on. But I couldn't leave with the new Airstream until we had a hitch, and I was prepared to install the "L" brackets myself. It was 90 degrees and I was there all day already. So we compromised. They charged me for one hour's labor and their "hitch guy" mounted and adjusted the "L" brackets. He didn't touch the part on the truck, and I had set the height according to the web site along with 4 washers. He earned every penny. He had a dedicated truck with an air compressor for tools and spent two hours tweaking. It drove like a dream on the way home.
Since then I've added one washer. I do need to take it to the Cat scale, but I hesitate to change things because it sits level and drives like you hoped for.
The washers don't get thinner, but because they're stamped, they're not perfectly flat to start and they flatten out as they're used. Periodic adjustment of the pivot bolt is necessary.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

The bolt pushes against the shank. It doesn't turn. It doesn't wear a hole in the shank.
So it might bung up one thread. How else are the threads being damaged?

Mollysdad,

That it, threads get chewed up as you tighten. I turned it over a couple of years ago.

In this video I asked Equal-I-Zer the question or more like commented about flipping the bolt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q0ZDeijHZ4

Even got a response from Equal-I-Zer

"Interesting idea Gary. Glad it's working for you. Thanks for chiming in!"

Gary

[waninae39]

with you TV and a normal load but no tallier , measure the road to wheel well distance. save this number for all four wheels

hopefully the L & r are the same at the front lets say they = 24"
measure the L & R are at the back, lets say t they =23"

if L & R do not match , front or rear, find out why

THEN

follow the OEM instructions. Your TV will be WD properly if the deltas with the trailer on is the same

ie the front = 21" and the rear is 20". just as you had a 1" spread no load, you want the same with the load

again with WD and the trailer, see if L & R do not match , front or rear, find out why