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04-17-2018, 10:05 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Hillsboro
, Oregon
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 76
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WF-9855 never goes to 13.2V
I have my trailer plugged into a home 15A plug and I have the battery disconnect switched to disconnected. A DMM across the battery terminals always reads 13.6V. The WFCO userd guide says that it should float at 13.2V. Is this going to be a problem for long term storage?
Thanks,
Jason
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04-18-2018, 05:57 AM
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#2
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.-. -...
2017 25' International
Niagara-on-the-Lake
, ON Canada
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,836
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If the Battery Disconnect is in store mode then the converter/charger is usually not putting any current into the batteries (at least in our 2017). Perhaps AS has changed the configuration.
When you measure across the battery terminals and if the converter/charger is not in the circuit then 13.6V shows fully charged batteries and not current from the charger.
__________________
Ray B.
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04-18-2018, 06:12 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
Livingston
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adventure.AS
When you measure across the battery terminals and if the converter/charger is not in the circuit then 13.6V shows fully charged batteries and not current from the charger.
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To my understanding, if the charger is not in the mix a fully charged battery would read 12.6.
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04-18-2018, 06:34 AM
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#4
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.-. -...
2017 25' International
Niagara-on-the-Lake
, ON Canada
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzwiss
To my understanding, if the charger is not in the mix a fully charged battery would read 12.6.
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Yes, my mistake. Sorry for the confusion. The charger must be in the circuit then.
__________________
Ray B.
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04-18-2018, 09:46 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2017 30' Classic
Anna Maria
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzwiss
To my understanding, if the charger is not in the mix a fully charged battery would read 12.6.
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My batteries do. And 13.6 while the charger is engaged.
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04-18-2018, 09:56 AM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
2016 30' International
Quartz Hill
, California
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 356
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I use "Battery Tender" on my batteries. It is an automatic battery maintainer. Plug it in and forget about it until you are ready to hit the road. My 2016 doesn't have the same power converter as the new models.
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04-18-2018, 10:19 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2002 30' Classic S/O
Fleming Island
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,668
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It may not go to float if there is any residual load on the batteries. Some items may not be switched off by the battery disconnect; the propane detector and sub-woofer are examples I have seen listed here.
Al
__________________
“You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"
Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO WBCCI 1322
2002 Classic 30 Slideout -S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
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04-18-2018, 10:22 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2017 16' Sport
N/A
, N/A
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roguegaston
I have my trailer plugged into a home 15A plug and I have the battery disconnect switched to disconnected. A DMM across the battery terminals always reads 13.6V. The WFCO userd guide says that it should float at 13.2V. Is this going to be a problem for long term storage?
Thanks,
Jason
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A question? I also am plugged into 15 amp circuit, is it recommended to not leave the switch disconnect in ‘connect’, wouldn’t this always keep Battery topped off?
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04-18-2018, 10:26 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
2018 25' Flying Cloud
Hillsboro
, Oregon
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 76
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I was hoping to remove any load by pressing the battery disconnect switch. The charger still charges the batteries with the switch off. I will let it run for another few days and check again. If it's still not dropping to float, I will start using a battery tender instead.
Thanks,
Jason
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04-18-2018, 10:42 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roguegaston
I was hoping to remove any load by pressing the battery disconnect switch. The charger still charges the batteries with the switch off. I will let it run for another few days and check again. If it's still not dropping to float, I will start using a battery tender instead.
Thanks,
Jason
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OK, that is wired a little differently than most older ones, like my 2006. If I am in 'Store', the battery charger is NOT connected to the batteries. The fact that the converter is not dropping to the float voltage could mean that there are a few sneak loads not getting disconnected. Another possibility is a tired battery...
I'd consider a mechanical battery total disconnect switch to be darn sure, and use of a battery tender.
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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04-18-2018, 11:03 AM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
2016 23' International
Fort Davis
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 15
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Don't Overcharge Those Batteries
After installing a replacement converter in my 2016 23FB Intl Serenity, I've learned from Parallax that the battery will not charge at 13.6VDC if it is in Store mode when connected to 120VAC. If you disconnect the converter from 120VAC, and don't take the battery out of Store mode, you should not be able to read any VDC at the wall readout. Now I keep the converter from burning out itself and the batteries from over charging by using a solar panel (Airstream Life), or turning on the converter for only an hour or so. If you think of your AS batteries like a car battery, you need to charge it only once in awhile to keep a battery bank good (12.6VDC). It's when you plan on boon docking that a constant charge to batteries is required if you're going to use that VDC energy.
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04-18-2018, 11:09 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2017 28' Flying Cloud
2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Georgetown (winter)Thayne (summer)
, Texas & Wyoming
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,621
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I agree with the mechanical battery disconnect switch. The separate extra battery tender option can work also, but not sure it's necessary if you have a 4 stage converter. We replaced our OEM converter/charger with the 4 stage converter which will properly charge/maintain your batteries when plugged in without overcharging. Also will help with "desulfation" which can build up in the battery cells and cause battery to fail.
We can leave plugged in to shore power all the time. We do disconnect the batteries with a mechanical "knife" disconnect switch after fully charged, to eliminate any chance of a draw on the batteries. This allows us to use the electronics in the AS if needed while in storage, but isolates the batteries. We will typically connect the knife switch a couple days before using the AS if it has not been used for a month or so, just to top off the batteries. For us this works well. There are a few choices out there; we chose the Boondocker. There is a lot of information on this topic on the Forum...
__________________
Empty Nesters; Gypsies on the road! 2017 28' Twin Flying Cloud
2017 F250 King Ranch, 4X4, 6.7L, Blue-Ox WDH
Summer-Star Valley Ranch RV Resort (Thayne, WY); Winter-Sun City (Georgetown,TX)
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04-18-2018, 12:22 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Sorry for the hijack but gypsydad - help me understand how your device works? It looks like the negatives are both still connected from the short jumper cable whether or not you engage the disconnect. But I'm no electrician. I've been wanting to add a manual disconnect like this - and yours looks like a neat fit for the battery box - I just don't understand it - go slow in your explanation. [emoji3]
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04-18-2018, 12:45 PM
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#14
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac
Sorry for the hijack but gypsydad - help me understand how your device works? It looks like the negatives are both still connected from the short jumper cable whether or not you engage the disconnect. But I'm no electrician. I've been wanting to add a manual disconnect like this - and yours looks like a neat fit for the battery box - I just don't understand it - go slow in your explanation. [emoji3]
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It looks to me like the batteries are still paralleled together, but the negative line from the batteries to the trailer is interrupted by the knife switch when it's open.
__________________
— David
Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
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04-18-2018, 03:54 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
Livingston
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsydad
We replaced our OEM converter/charger with the 4 stage converter which will properly charge/maintain your batteries when plugged in without overcharging. Also will help with "desulfation" which can build up in the battery cells and cause battery to fail.
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It is not a good idea to run a 4 stage charger with a "desulfation" mode if you are using AGM batteries unless you can deactivate the desulfation cycle.
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04-18-2018, 05:02 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX
It looks to me like the batteries are still paralleled together, but the negative line from the batteries to the trailer is interrupted by the knife switch when it's open.
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I'm lost. Maybe time for a new thread. It seems the negative to the trailer is on the battery on the top of the picture (curbside based on the angle of the a-frame and location of lid). So even though the disconnect is open - isn't there still at least one battery connected to the trailer? Sorry I'm so dense - really not getting it....
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04-18-2018, 05:32 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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The part of the disconnect switch with the knife handle is not connected to the battery. Look close and you will see the battery post above the knife switch in the pic.
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04-18-2018, 06:11 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
The part of the disconnect switch with the knife handle is not connected to the battery. Look close and you will see the battery post above the knife switch in the pic.
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Ohhhhhhh! Got it! Optical delusion on my part - it LOOKS like the battery post but it's just hanging there not touching the post (which is on the other side of the battery entirely....).
Funny how a brain settles in on something and can't see anything else! Thanks for the help everyone!
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04-18-2018, 08:16 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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Apparently the insulator that connects the two haves of the knife switch is very inconspicuous in the photo. Had me going until I noticed the bare negatives (?) post on the far battery.
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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04-18-2018, 08:23 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W
, New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 7,402
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I'm assuming it's something like this:
https://www.wirthco.com/20148.html
One side (the open one on the earlier picture) is on the post, the other is suspended over the battery case. A real eye trick!
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