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Old 04-17-2018, 10:05 PM   #1
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WF-9855 never goes to 13.2V

I have my trailer plugged into a home 15A plug and I have the battery disconnect switched to disconnected. A DMM across the battery terminals always reads 13.6V. The WFCO userd guide says that it should float at 13.2V. Is this going to be a problem for long term storage?

Thanks,

Jason
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Old 04-18-2018, 05:57 AM   #2
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If the Battery Disconnect is in store mode then the converter/charger is usually not putting any current into the batteries (at least in our 2017). Perhaps AS has changed the configuration.

When you measure across the battery terminals and if the converter/charger is not in the circuit then 13.6V shows fully charged batteries and not current from the charger.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:12 AM   #3
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When you measure across the battery terminals and if the converter/charger is not in the circuit then 13.6V shows fully charged batteries and not current from the charger.
To my understanding, if the charger is not in the mix a fully charged battery would read 12.6.
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Old 04-18-2018, 06:34 AM   #4
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To my understanding, if the charger is not in the mix a fully charged battery would read 12.6.
Yes, my mistake. Sorry for the confusion. The charger must be in the circuit then.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:46 AM   #5
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To my understanding, if the charger is not in the mix a fully charged battery would read 12.6.

My batteries do. And 13.6 while the charger is engaged.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:56 AM   #6
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I use "Battery Tender" on my batteries. It is an automatic battery maintainer. Plug it in and forget about it until you are ready to hit the road. My 2016 doesn't have the same power converter as the new models.
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:19 AM   #7
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It may not go to float if there is any residual load on the batteries. Some items may not be switched off by the battery disconnect; the propane detector and sub-woofer are examples I have seen listed here.

Al
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:22 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Roguegaston View Post
I have my trailer plugged into a home 15A plug and I have the battery disconnect switched to disconnected. A DMM across the battery terminals always reads 13.6V. The WFCO userd guide says that it should float at 13.2V. Is this going to be a problem for long term storage?

Thanks,

Jason
A question? I also am plugged into 15 amp circuit, is it recommended to not leave the switch disconnect in ‘connect’, wouldn’t this always keep Battery topped off?
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:26 AM   #9
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I was hoping to remove any load by pressing the battery disconnect switch. The charger still charges the batteries with the switch off. I will let it run for another few days and check again. If it's still not dropping to float, I will start using a battery tender instead.

Thanks,

Jason
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:42 AM   #10
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I was hoping to remove any load by pressing the battery disconnect switch. The charger still charges the batteries with the switch off. I will let it run for another few days and check again. If it's still not dropping to float, I will start using a battery tender instead.

Thanks,

Jason
OK, that is wired a little differently than most older ones, like my 2006. If I am in 'Store', the battery charger is NOT connected to the batteries. The fact that the converter is not dropping to the float voltage could mean that there are a few sneak loads not getting disconnected. Another possibility is a tired battery...

I'd consider a mechanical battery total disconnect switch to be darn sure, and use of a battery tender.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:03 AM   #11
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Don't Overcharge Those Batteries

After installing a replacement converter in my 2016 23FB Intl Serenity, I've learned from Parallax that the battery will not charge at 13.6VDC if it is in Store mode when connected to 120VAC. If you disconnect the converter from 120VAC, and don't take the battery out of Store mode, you should not be able to read any VDC at the wall readout. Now I keep the converter from burning out itself and the batteries from over charging by using a solar panel (Airstream Life), or turning on the converter for only an hour or so. If you think of your AS batteries like a car battery, you need to charge it only once in awhile to keep a battery bank good (12.6VDC). It's when you plan on boon docking that a constant charge to batteries is required if you're going to use that VDC energy.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:09 AM   #12
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I agree with the mechanical battery disconnect switch. The separate extra battery tender option can work also, but not sure it's necessary if you have a 4 stage converter. We replaced our OEM converter/charger with the 4 stage converter which will properly charge/maintain your batteries when plugged in without overcharging. Also will help with "desulfation" which can build up in the battery cells and cause battery to fail.

We can leave plugged in to shore power all the time. We do disconnect the batteries with a mechanical "knife" disconnect switch after fully charged, to eliminate any chance of a draw on the batteries. This allows us to use the electronics in the AS if needed while in storage, but isolates the batteries. We will typically connect the knife switch a couple days before using the AS if it has not been used for a month or so, just to top off the batteries. For us this works well. There are a few choices out there; we chose the Boondocker. There is a lot of information on this topic on the Forum...
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Old 04-18-2018, 12:22 PM   #13
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Sorry for the hijack but gypsydad - help me understand how your device works? It looks like the negatives are both still connected from the short jumper cable whether or not you engage the disconnect. But I'm no electrician. I've been wanting to add a manual disconnect like this - and yours looks like a neat fit for the battery box - I just don't understand it - go slow in your explanation.
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Old 04-18-2018, 12:45 PM   #14
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Sorry for the hijack but gypsydad - help me understand how your device works? It looks like the negatives are both still connected from the short jumper cable whether or not you engage the disconnect. But I'm no electrician. I've been wanting to add a manual disconnect like this - and yours looks like a neat fit for the battery box - I just don't understand it - go slow in your explanation.
It looks to me like the batteries are still paralleled together, but the negative line from the batteries to the trailer is interrupted by the knife switch when it's open.
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